Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What kind of steering wheel is it? You can get HKB boss kits from J-Shop. They are compatible with Momo and Nardi. Not sure about others, but will probably work. Just ask. Also, you need an airbag specific one. Its a bit tricky to change it all. If you get stuck, send me a PM. I've changed a couple of steering wheels now :worship:

Word of warning... when you are pulling your stock wheel off, it feels like its stuck. You have to pull really hard (seriously!!!) To avoid injury, such as black eyes or broken cheek bones, put the nut back on the steering column about three turns. That way when the steering wheel suddenly gives way, it doesn't fly off into you face, but rather stops against the nut :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3496789
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure the Nismo wheels have the same bolt pattern as Nardi. The HKB boss should be fine. When you go get it, just pull it out the box and test fit your wheel to see if they line up with the holes. There are two sets of holes, so make sure you line it up with the correct ones. There is a little arrow on the boss that indicates the upward direction.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3499074
Share on other sites

Just get a HKB kit. I'm very happy with mine and its good quality. The last thing you want is the steering wheel coming of in your hands while your driving. I know someone who has had that experience... scared the crap out of him :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3509567
Share on other sites

Hey skyryan... it didn't come off the shaft. The little skrews that hold the wheel to the boss stripped their thread somehow. The steering wheel was in his hands and the boss kit still on the shaft. He had to slow down while grabbing the boss kit to steer with. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3511093
Share on other sites

Karlos... to get the airbag wheel off is easy. There are two plastic covers on each side of the steering wheel. Remove the covers and unskrew the bolts. They are extremely tight and require a six pointed star type key to undo. The HKB boss kits supply this key. When these are out you can lift the airbag part out. Just need to unplug the wires. After this, there is just the main nut on the steering shaft that you need to lossen. Once this is off, pull the steering wheel as hard as you can to get it off. Its a good idea to leave the steering shaft nut on about three turns because the steering wheel will give way and hit you in the face otherwise. Now you just need to wire it all up and put on your new steering wheel. There are two options for wires. One will short the horn out and it will be constantly going. This is the wrong option. The other shorts out the air bag sensor. This is the one you want. If you run into any serious trouble... send me a PM :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3511107
Share on other sites

Well I've got an R34, and Alistair kindly informed me that I'm going to be constantly bothered with my airbag light if I put on my new wheel, he said that R33 bosses should be fine on the R34 though...

So, what goes chaps?

Worth changing wheel? How can I get that airbag light off without snipping cables? Will teh R33 boss fit??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3513926
Share on other sites

There is a plug that has three wires going into it. One is the positive side of the horn. The negative side of the horn is the metal surround of the boss kit.

The other two wires are for the air bag. The plug supplied with the HKB boss kit bridges these two wires. This turns off the airbag light, so you don't snip any cables. They are just bridged.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195166-steering-boss/#findComment-3513941
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but it's not as easy as pulling a fuse on anything other than an R32. There's a routine you have to do, involving disconnecting a loom plug and bleeding down the preload.
    • A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible
    • Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time! Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.  
    • I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...
    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
×
×
  • Create New...