Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pretty simple mod, anyone can do it as long as you have a screwdriver and/or a size 8 socket wrench, and can go to your local hardware shop to buy some long bolts

On R32's the PTU is mounted directly onto the rocker cover, and unfortunately is subject to a lot of heat from the engine. This can cause the PTU to overheat and as a result the contacts can warp and wires melt or get brittle from heating/cooling down repeatedly for many years of use. The PTU comes with a heatsink, but unfortunately getting airflow over the PTU can be an exercise in futility, esp if you have a intake pipe running across your engine and strut reinforcement bars etc.

The solution is to space the PTU away from the engine or mount it onto the firewall. The latter can be a bit tircky with wires having to be extended and new holes having to be drilled onto the firewall. By spacing the PTU higher up, you can actually move it into the path of airflow under the bonnet, also by getting some space between the engine and the PTU you can improve heat dissipation from the ehatsink (which is unfortunately on the bottom of the PTU).

The pic should be self explanatory as to what you need to do:

post-256-1195987270.jpg

post-256-1195987270_thumb.jpg

I just used these ones I had lying around in the garage, but ideally I'd wanna make a sleeve to go over the exposed thread, just in case the nut under the PTU holding it up comes loose.

Nice mod, I thought bout sanding down the fins on the unit and gluing a taller heat sink, but this is far less work ;)

productLarge_1155.jpgproductLarge_703.jpg

Whats PTU suppose to stand for tho? its an igniter module, havent heard it called anything else before

Power Transistor Unit

I cable tied mine to those metal lines further up ;)

hehe thought of cable tying it to my ABS lines as well... the heatshield that was on it was so brittle when i tugged at it a little it just crumbled... so I went for a ghetto solution.

an even simpler way is to unbolt it, turn it upside down, and bolt it donw again

that way, the heatsink faces up and allows the heat to dissipate, yet you use no new parts and it mounts in the stock location

That's what I did, also don't have the coil cover so it's only held down by one bolt in the corner (with the earth strap) into one of the coil cover bolt holes. It's kind of hanging out over the coils with the fins pointing up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...