Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We dyno'd my car back in may and got 487rwhp, since then the boost only went up when i was game enough to use it on the street (not very often)

Ended up with a oil leak and had to change my timing belt (soaked in oil) and some cam seals to fix the issue and when it went back together the cam timing was out one and a half teeth.....

& This is what it did to the dyno results, a loss of 60hp at the wheels on the same boost.

Cant wait to get it back to where it was before put this Nismo clutch in and go down the track! I want some high mph and a 1.7 60 ft :( (yeah its nice to dream)

Anyway has anyone seen this kinda drop in power? the car still feels really good off boost its just lower power & torque... its running .80 lambda all the way through.

Il post a video of the dyno run later

post-1240-1196135858_thumb.jpg

thats normal to have a loss of that much power when your talking the power your car makes.

you should know more then anyone to turn the crank over twice (one engine cycle) and re-check the timing marks on the timing gears :yes:

however on a side note these are the typical gains that can be had if you have a set of cams that require dialing in with adjustable cam gears, even if you put the cams to factory spec/timing marks you don't make the power you can if you dial them in properly to the engine as per specs supplied by cam manufacturer.

poncams seem to make best power when setup to standard specs however from all reports.

  • 4 years later...

I know its a old thread but i think i may have the same problem but could be something else as turbo and cams where also fiddled with at the same time.

exhaust mani gasket was changed and cam caps where undone as i was going to remove the head but in the end i didn't so all was put back together, timing checked several times (dots lined up with backing plate mark and crank keyway was straight up)

I get a major flat spot from 3500~ to about 5000~ rpm it just hardly moves up the rev range but still makes 14psi as it did before changing timing belt..

CAN having the timing out a few teeth that when VCT kicks in its choking up?? as it comes sort of good after 5-6000rpm and feels ok good under 3000rpm..

could i have got something else wrong other than timing that would chock it up but still make same boost?

Are you still running the RB25? because I would imagine 99% of Guil-toys's problems would have been due to running a Rb3025 like me. which means that unlike a RB25 you most often are required to run 2 tensioners instead of 1 tensioner and a idler. IE on a 25/26 you only have 1 side to cause you greif. Unlike the 30 where you gotta try and balance tightening the timing belt with 2 tensioners while keeping the cams in the correct position in relation to the crank. Well that was my issue with my rb30 any way.

If you do have a 25, I would say your probly right about either the cam timing being out or even the CAS sensor being done incorrectly. like the 1st time I did my motor. I some how managed to time the motor off the wrong wire going to the coils instead of going straight at the #1 coil and the motor was about 10-15 degree's out and drove like an absolute dog.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, that's grim. Something bad has been happening there.
    • Put an endoscope down the hole and saw this. Not quite all around the bore but a good 60% at least. Chin to the chest and towards further disappointments I guess.
    • 2 does "sort of" applies, maybe......but looking at what parts would be needed for the swap to get engineered, registered, and insured, and basically that's everything under the car, the modifications the make it legal would be problematic and horrendously expensive, all for a street car that just cruises around and hits a few twisty roads on the weekends Also, from looking at the NSW rules and Regs, with all modifications that is required just to make the car safe and not twist itself to pieces, and then actually get registered for street use, may still be impossible nowadays As for 1, when you add in a fresh engine, fresh transmission, rear cradle and diff, tailshaft, suspension, brakes, cooling, and all the other fabrication required, your probably looking at up to $100k to do it right, all for a 20 year old MX5 that is over engineered and you would never be able to actually use the power it has on the street, much like your beastie, which I love, but you actually track that thing and can use all of its powers in anger, in a safe environment  Hell, the old Bogan Cruise Ship had more power than I could use on the street, and in hindsight, I went a bit silly on that thing, it didn't really need the 500hp it had for what I actually used the car for, it was fun, but basically unusable on the street if you value your licence  As for cams, yeah, I'll probably book it in for them to get installed and tuned soonish, like next month after MX5 Mania are back at work....... and yes, I've already sent a email to bin the turbo quote and quote instead to install cams and a new Fluidampr balancer that will suit the 2.5 better than the OEM 2.0 balancer that is swapped over for the 2.5 install, as the balancer needs to get pulled to time the cams it's a while your in there sort of thing I did think a bit about flex fuel for a laugh, but being na, and no where really around locally anymore to get E85, I've binned that idea, so no sweet sweet corn smells are set for the car I wish E85 was more of a standard fuel, it's better for the environment, better for tuning, plus that sweet sweet smell we all love As for fitting in the family, that's not needed, as everyone in the family already owns a car that can seat 5 humans comfortably enough, the MX5 is "my toy" As for buying a car that is already built, nah, I would rather pick and choose my parts, I enjoy the process, and in the big picture, the additional cost is well worth the enjoyment, and the occasional frustration, I get out of doing it, albeit with other people spinning the spanners, and me, just paying the invoice 🤣
    • Excuse me, but 2) does apply 1) Would also apply if you consider how much is spent in the alternatives. Also there's the option of 3), buy one pre-built that you can put your family in (it's me, it's my car)   That said, I went on a ~500km drive the other day. I didn't use anything more adventurous than 3rd/4th gear at about ~3000RPM and 50% throttle and I was going as fast as anyone has any sense doing on a public road, with enough grip to the point where I didn't want to go any faster. I was obviously under the limit of the current car etc etc. MX5 with 2.5 N/A to achieve the same speed would be more fun for any road scenario. Maybe consider cams. I wouldn't boost it. The use case is just not there and it won't actually make the car more enjoyable unless you really do plan on wringing gears from 1st to 3rd (at least) at 100% WOT on a public road to 150+kmh.
    • Great if: 1. You had all of the money for everything else that is required  2. Lived in a country where you could actually do this and drive it legally on the road Sadly, neither applies to me As for the turbo, I am having second thoughts, mainly for engineering/registration legality reasons and insurance  Not saying I've finished doing stupid things that I probably should do to the MX5, but boost, and V8 engine swaps isn't on the cards Strange, but true 
×
×
  • Create New...