Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, After blowing a turbo gasket, I’m in the process of fitting 2 stock RB20 turbos to my Nissan Syline R32 GTSt. All the work is been done at a engineering firm in Bunbury WA where my dad works.

We are making 2 separate manifolds one for each turbo. Front 3 exhaust outlets to one and the back 3 to the other turbo. There is going to be a balance pipe that goes between both manifolds to equalise pressure into both turbos. We see there is no need to have 2 wastegates so one will be blocked off. All water and oil lines are been ‘T’ . There will be 3” pipes coming off the back of the turbos converging into a 4” exhaust system. Air intake for the turbos will consist on the 1 pod filter, splitting into 2 pipes after the afm then to the turbos. The outlets for the turbos will converge into one tube entering the front mount intercooler then engine.

This project is well underway, and if all goes well will be completed in a month. Before starting this project I had 200bhp running a stock turbo with 13psi, with the intercooler and a 3” exhaust. I have had it down the drag strip with a time of 13.7 @ 167km/h.

I was interested if any one had any comments on how laggy it will be, the power output I might achieve, or any concerns about what im doing. All comments will be appreciated. thanks, Ewan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19547-twin-turbo-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

I guess the major cost in this project that would be incurred is the labour involved in engineering such a setup to work properly.

Of cos thats somewhat irrelevant here since your dad works in the firm.

For the typical enthusiast out there, such a project would not economical, since the labour cost would overwhelm everything esle.

But for someone in your shoes, i guess it would be the natural thing to do, since rb20 turbos are rather cheap, as well as the rest of the parts involved.

IMHO u might need to stick to 2 wastegates to get more accurate boost control, but i may be wrong here.

Always good to have something out of the ordinary...

do keep us updated! ;)

What 1 bar barrier? He's only using 1 turbo on 3 cylinders, which means for the same pressure, the turbo is spinning only half as fast (in theory). It's not going to be 100% efficient like that of course, but each turbo will definitely be able to run more than 1 bar of boost reliably.

That is the problem, both turbos have to run up to the original speed to generate the original boost, but now there is only half the exhaust gas volume to do it.

As a result I would expect the boost threshold to be about twice the RPM it was before. You can fix it by fitting smaller a/r turbine housings, but the top end airflow should be awsome either way.

oops nice some one actually read it he was paid in food and i kicked his ass and made him piss and im a CHICK yeh thats rite na i have to be nice hes allright but needs to put his little rotor back together as it sound strange?? at times!!(n e bunno people will know what i meen )

k

ahha mike

your car is the same as mine basically

i drive mine NORMALLY i didnt buy a skyline to thrash it qtr mile it etc

im gonna make it run good and keep the boost standard and just make it look decent

im not into this "ooh ill drag u" shit

id like my car to last and not be thrashed to the max

and maurice i couldnt care less if ya could beat me

hell a LOT of cars on the road could beat me

i dont go on as my cars sumthin special

i tell ppl

its a STOCK SKYLINE

all id have to do is spend a bit of $ like ewan did on a intercooler etc and id own u like he does

but the fact of the matter is i am not interested i got the car cause i love skylines

the end

also the 20c remark was a JOKE :)

and yeah iluvewan i know what ya mean by the rotor comment

hes gotta add some cylinders and stop making it sound like a whipper snapper ;)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How much have you lowered?  I had 350Z springs in the rear and was able to pull the camber into factory spec with the factory arms on the rear, obviously the front ran negative camber as it isn't adjustable, but rotating the wheels regularly evened out the wear.
    • Either the installer needs to come back, you need an auto electrician, or you need to learn automotive electricals yourself.   First step Id look at is where that big thing came out of, is there still things unplugged at that location? Maybe they just forgot to put a relay in or something?
    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
×
×
  • Create New...