Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Koyo 3 Layer racing Radiator

Condition: Used

Price: $200 ONO

from R32 GTR

SOLD

Item: GTR Intercooler

Condition: Used

Price: $150 ONO

SOLD

Item: RB20DET with Gearbox & wiring loom (no sump or power steering motor)

Condition: Used

Price: $1000 ONO

from z31 200zr

Item: RB26DETT Front Sump & diff

Condition: Used

Price: $350 ONO

To Fit: GTR

SOLD

Item: RB26DETT Standard Injectors

Condition: Used

Price: $350 ONO

SOLD

Item: 18" Chrome Rims with 95% Tread

Condition: Used

Price: $1100 ONO

To Fit: 180SX, Silvia, 200sx

stud pattern 4x120-4x114.3

SOLD

Location: Northside Brisbane

Contact: 0403865415

post-38607-1196290913_thumb.jpg

post-38607-1196291108_thumb.jpg

post-38607-1196291128_thumb.jpg

post-38607-1196291145_thumb.jpg

post-38607-1196291158_thumb.jpg

post-38607-1196291760_thumb.jpg

Edited by str00th
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195556-gtr-parts-for-sale-rb20det-and-rims/
Share on other sites

Hey there,

If the cooler is still available and in perfect running condition then I'm interested. Would also need to know what the freight cost would be to Melbourne.

Cheers

John

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
×
×
  • Create New...