Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, my fist post here today, had a look around but theis seems to be one of the better skyline forums.

today i picked up a 88 r31 auto for $150. the head cracked this morning on the prev owner and they didnt ewant it anymore, so i picked it up dirt cheap. needs a bit of work apart fro the engine, but overall its a good cond. car. if i can get the motor fixed up reasonably easily, i hope to make this a project car, do it up and use it as a Sq car. thought id make up a thread to intrpduce myself and to post up questions etc about my progress.

here are some pics as it was this afternoon when i first saw it;

Skyline.jpg

Skyline2.jpg

Skyline3.jpg

Skyline4.jpg

Skyline7.jpg

Skyline5.jpg

Skyline9.jpg

Skyline8.jpg

Skyline11.jpg

Skyline10.jpg

Skyline12.jpg

Skyline6.jpg

itll come up allot nicer with a clean, but im not so fussed about how it looks yet anyway, i just want to get it going.

so, first question if i may

the head is cracked, that much i know, so what are my best options? keep in mind atm i just want to get it going, later on down the track ill get something rebuilt for it, but for now should i just get a new head? whole new block? what kind of prices am igoing to be looking at?

anything else i should be looking out for?

cheers for now guys, any help is much appreciated, and ill update the thread when i give it a clean and have a better look round

pat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195567-my-new-88-r31-porject/
Share on other sites

Head on over to www.r31skylineclub.com with all of your questions. They have a whole tech info section to help you out. SAU is a great site, but for the older R31's, if you are wanting a heap of info head over there.

It probably doesn't have a cracked head, maybe a gasket. The RB30 in the skyline needs some pretty harsh treatment beofre it cracks a head.

Looks like a good buy for $150.00. GXE and all, and doesn't seem in too bad a nick

Good luck with it.

yea rip head off and take it 2 a reco joint and get it check out. might just need machine. or if its stuffed easy as 2 find another head for a rb30. wreckers etc. make sure get it cracked tested b4 putting it on tho cos pain in the ass if have 2 do it all again. should only cost max $500 for 2nd hand head + gasket (go oem nissan gasket) + crack test etc.

can pick rb30's up for $200 these days as well...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
    • I'm looking for a direct bolt on turbo upgrade for my 93 R33 GTST.  Anyone have experience with this Greddy T620Z turbo upgrade? I'd like to be able to run about 300hp to the rear wheels without putting too much strain on the turbo. I do daily drive the car.  Pretty stock car with basic bolt ons (exhaust outlet, down pipe, high flow cat and catback exhaust along with intake and FMIC).  I'l probably have a Haltech plug n play on the car before installing the turbo. https://www.greddy.com/products/turbo-upgrade-ecr33-er34-t620z-rb25-11520057   Also, any thought on this much boost on a 30 year old motor with 250,000KMs?  Engine feels/sounds strong for what it's worth.   Thanks you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...