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Hi guys,

I have not read all the posts but I am going to warn you away from doing this.

I have done A RB20DETT before using two R32 RB20 Turbos.

We did get a 403rwhp @17psi, but it is a laggy pig. Cars with much less power beat it on the street because they have more usable power.

This is how it performs.

4000rpm = 7psi it also has bad compressor surge issues.

5000rpm = 10psi

6000rpm = 13psi

7000rpm = 15psi

8000rpm = 17psi and 403rwhp

The car in question was done 6 years ago and I did not recommend it then and I still say it is a bad idea.

1567_1024.ts1137015806452.jpg

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Was it a completely std RB20. Did it end up blowing up at that hp????

A single RB20 turbo is bigger then a GTR turbo, so you woudl expect GTR turbs to be a bit more responsive ???

Throw a 75 hp shot at Nitrous on it, and for a backyard tinkerer you would have a mid-low 11 sec drag engine, turbs/manifolds/piping/nitoris costing less then 3k:)

The above set up would have worked a lot better with a single .82 GT3540R

I would have made similar max rwhp on the same boost but it would get to full boost at around 4000 – 4400rpm. So it would have had tons more mid range and a heaps better power curve. and that it what wins races.

Hi Roy,

Yes it was a standard R32 RB20 engine, and yes it blow up first trip to the drags.

The twin turbo set up was done by a mechanic I had working for me. He had done the car before he was working for me.

Like I said I would never recommend some one do this.

The owner of the car did not want to re-do the turbo side of things so I had to make the best out of bad beginnings.

I made the inlet manifold, intercooler, pipes, fuel rail, ect.

Cheers,

I doubt that the engine has blown up because of the horsepower output, maybe it was to do with the amount of heat around the intakes.

I have read that in Japan the rb20 has acheived over 600ps. :(

400rwhp is great, just what I'm after to run into the mid 10's

Is your TD06 Ball Bearing???

What is your exhaust manifold like???

I have Greddy stainless steel tubular exhaust manifold

And no the turbo is not ball bearing, but I don’t have lot of belief in ball bearing turbos helping response as my 420hp plain bearing oil cooled turbo is more responsive then 350hp ball bearing turbos , and as responsive as a 320hp 2530…so I have seen a T66 on an RB26 and I would think a 3540 would die of boredom on an RB20:)

yes i definately think the matching of the wheel trims, compressor housing, turbine housing all have a much greater impact on response that what type of bearings it has.

Hi guys,

  I have not read all the posts but I am going to warn you away from doing this.

I have done A RB20DETT before using two R32 RB20 Turbos.

We did get a 403rwhp @17psi, but it is a laggy pig. Cars with much less power beat it on the street because they have more usable power.

This is how it performs.

4000rpm = 7psi                 it also has bad compressor surge issues.

5000rpm = 10psi

6000rpm = 13psi

7000rpm = 15psi

8000rpm = 17psi and 403rwhp

The car in question was done 6 years ago and I did not recommend it then and I still say it is a bad idea.

1567_1024.ts1137015806452.jpg

it would be interesting to see what a healthly set of gtr turbos go like (i guess someone would have tryied it) gtr r34 ball bearing should give a result worth the trouble.

Edited by pnblight

Hey Guys,

Turbine,

The engine was pulled down and it had done the rings. But we already knew that because it dumped the contents of the sump out of the breathers and all over the track. Standard rings don’t like big revs with big power.

Roy & Beer Baron,

Of course Turbine, compressor wheel and housing size matching is the most important factors when it comes to choosing a turbo. (There is a thread open where we are discussing this topic in the Forced Induction Performance forums), But there is no questioning the FACT that ball bearing turbos spool up faster. And the better the wheels and housings match the faster again it will spool up with a ball bearing centre.

Manifold design is also very important.

I have GT3540R’s hanging of the side of 2L engines making 10psi @ 3800rpm and reaching 15psi as early as 4000rpm..

Link to Compressor-turbine Matching thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=102580

KamikazeR33,

Yes it is a 31 Skyline. It is a Australian delivered 4 door 31. :D

Cheers :P

where we are discussing this topic in the Forced Induction Performance forums), But there is no questioning the FACT that ball bearing turbos spool up faster. And the better the wheels and housings match the faster again it will spool up with a ball bearing centre.

Manifold design is also very important.

I have GT3540R’s hanging of the side of 2L engines making 10psi @ 3800rpm and reaching 15psi as early as 4000rpm..

I agree 100% about the BB thing. There is no arguement that if the same two turbos sat side by side with the same wheels and housings, but the only difference being cartridges, there would be a clear winner. But the fact remains GT3540s are big turbos, and the inertia of a big wheel will always require certain amount of exhaust eneergy.

So not doubting your results, but would love to hear more about those 2L motors? Atre they real Garret 3540Rs or some workshops custom thingie that flows good numbers but is well short of 3540 ????

A MATE OF MINE HAS AN OLD CELICA WITH A 1GGTE WITH 1XRB20DET TURBO AND ONE VG20 TURBO. ONE MOUNTED HIGH AT THE FRONT AND LOW AT THE BACK. BOTH RUN STANDARD BOOST (10PSI)AND WASTEGATES, WITH FULL 3" EXHAUST OFF EACH TURBO(TWIN), TWIN THROTTLE BODYS. GOES AS HARD AS ANOTHER IG CELICA RUNNING TO4B WITH EXTERNAL GATE AT 23PSI

Veyr nice. But two comments, or shoud i say questions? Is that a real GT3540R. My understandignis a 3540R will flow 70lbs/min, so 400rwhp @23.5psi is great, but i would have though well under what a 3540 could flow? So is is a 3540 or is it more like a GT30 with some trickery in it etc etc. ?

Also the fact thats its a Dastin 1200 Ute. Does the weight of the car make much difference. The fact that it is such a light manual car with 4.11 diffs means that off boost it does not need much torque to pull the thing along, so beign so light actually helps the thing accelerate, hence increase rpm and get onto boost?

Only questions, im ot takign anythign away from what looks to be a nice job and a good result. Just tryign to understand it thats all.

Does anyone know what a good set of upgraded injectors are for my rb20det, for 270rwkw

Dude, I've got a set of GTR 444cc injectors for mine, though they have been converted to RB20 ohm. I have been told that you would have to have a fair whack of hp for these to max out on an RB20.

Veyr nice. But two comments, or shoud i say questions? Is that a real GT3540R. My understandignis a 3540R will flow 70lbs/min, so 400rwhp @23.5psi is great, but i would have though well under what a 3540 could flow?  So is is a 3540 or is it more like a GT30 with some trickery in it etc etc. ?

Also the fact thats its a Dastin 1200 Ute. Does the weight of the car make much difference. The fact that it is such a light manual car with 4.11 diffs means that off boost it does not need much torque to pull the thing along, so beign so light actually helps the thing accelerate, hence increase rpm and get onto boost?

Only questions, im ot takign anythign away from what looks to be a nice job and a good result. Just tryign to understand it thats all.

If you read the information on the Datsun 1200, the power quoted and the pic's of the engine bay are of the old TO4E set up. The 1200 is still in the tuning stages with the new GT3540R.

The light weight of the 1200 if any thing will cause it to spool up slower. In theory a heaver car will load up more and make boost earlier. Same as driving up a hill or applying the break as you are accelerating.

Look forward to seeing the results...

The light weight of the 1200 if any thing will cause it to spool up slower. In theory a heaver car will load up more and make boost earlier. Same as driving up a hill or applying the break as you are accelerating.

Yeh true, just likeloading it up on a dyno .

But i would still think that any light car can get away with a big turbo as it wont need the low to mid torque, and the fact that it would accelerate quicker, the rpm increases quicker...gets into its power band quicker....i would think like everything its a trade off/balance.??????

Not arguing, just thought that would have more effect then the weight of a car??? Kind like if i put my engine in a VT Commodore, poerhaps the turbo will spool up a bit quicker, but i highly doubt the engine would rev out near as quick????

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