Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok first of all i kno most people wont understand why i bought it 3 months ago and now im selling but its a genuine sale i just want to move back to a street car now so i need to let this go. ok......

1989 r32 skyline gts-t

SR20 motor ( out of a 2000 model s15 )

5 speed

211kw at the wheels

Apexi power FC computer + hand controller ( tuned at racepace in melbourne )

OS geiken twin plate clutch ( recently rebuilt )

TOMEI 256 cams

550cc injectors

HKS GT SS turbo ( less than 1000ks done )

N/A SR20 throtlle body

Big internal fuel pump

xforce manifold

rb25 airflow meter

GTR exhaust

Big TRUST FMIC

GReddy triple core radiator

KAZZ 2 way diff

HKS coil overs

camber adjustable

hicas lock bar

drift pineapples

SPARCO driver's seat

GTR interior

shift knob

turbo timer

sparco steering wheel

boost gauge

Racing pedals

Strut tower brace

Drift style handbrake

body kit is genuine BN Sport kit

evc 4 set to 1.2 bar

WORK miester 3 peice rims.. fronts 18'' by 10'' and rear 18'' by 11'' new tyres on the rims.. front 255/40 rear 275/40

Full wide kit 30mm rear and 25mm front.

have some shitty skid rims and jap quality 30mm spacers for them

the car is not complied but has all the import approval and everything. i was quoted about 6k to comply it if i did no work on it just gave it to them and got it back. the car is seriously sick ive never owned or known anyone who owns anything like it. turbo is pretty much on boost whenever you mash the throttle, makes 5psi at 1500rpm. ive had it dyno'd twice, one at aussie dyno and made 208 with boost spike and massive dodgey bleeder. after i got elec boost it made 211 with the turbo starting to run out of puff. ive olny taken it to lala once and that was a GRIP day. car went really well.

the only 1 problem is something has f**ked out in the gearbox we think the selector has f**ked up because i only have 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th no 5th or reverse. box feels really good apart from that. im sure its nothing major. my mechanic thinks the same. car lights 1st 2nd and 3rd no dramas but could do with some slightly skinnier tyres on the back for real good fun. i can put anyone who is interested in touch with the guy i bought it off who is also the guy who has done 90% of the work on the car for any more info.

price is $15,500 slightly neg at this stage. im in no hurry to sell what-so-ever so dont bother low balling me. car can be veiwed this weekend all glammed up at the christmas cruise. ill send it anywhere in aus with the buyer paying.

some adjustable arms and you would have a potentially competative car that looks sick and is different. paint is shmick as except for front bar which has a few little spider cracks from the drive back from melb. ok any more info let me know. cheers 0401178091

DSC01949.jpg

DSC01972.jpg

edit4.jpg

edit1.jpg

DSC01948.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195704-wide-sr-powered-32/
Share on other sites

swap for our spare car? perfect sleeper with all the hard suspension work done... this is a wicked hills car.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/S1...al-t197167.html

ive wanted this R32 since it landed a fe years back.

no help with the sale but seen this car first hand about 4 months ago and it is one orsome car. its pretty much what a jap biult car should be. this car would have so much potential with the sr20 to be either a grate drift car or an orsome full on track car.

^^ thats coz it is jap built... cheers mate. anyway still for sale. will be sliding on the 6th if no1 shows interest before then.

pics arnt flattering it looks much tougher in real life. paint is near on perfect and whoever did the bodywork did an awesome job. ill even chuck the dvd player back in it for the sale. cheers

Edited by boostd gem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
×
×
  • Create New...