Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday,

I just bought an R33 PowerFC and its coming with the Boost Control Kit.

Was just wondering peoples opinions of this boost controller, from personal experience?

Good or Bad??

I have done searching but couldn't find anything specific.

Cheers

shit, very basic no gain adjustment etc.. got on on the GTR which happens to be the car they struggle with most too :worship: (but came free with FC) and tuned hundreds of them... well waste of cash. a good greddy, blitz or eboost does 100% better job.

Regardless of what boost control valve you use, one thing that you can certainly do to help yourself is to ensure you have wastegate actuators rated at a boost pressure close to what you plan to run.

If they are rated at much lower than the manifold pressure you want to run, obviously the boost controller has to work that much harder at controlling boost at wide open throttle.

Im only going to be running the standard r33 turbo, and then when I do change it will be a GCG hiflow.

So deffinatly put a r32 turbo actuator on then?

If you get a hold of one easily then its a good idea. But not a huge worry if you cant.

I swear he bags the shit out of anything he doesn't sell or support himself.

Standard business practice I spose. :);)

haha the old objectivity debate hey.... FYI i have been using, selling and importing this gear for around 10years (all my comment s are based on experience not oppinion) and i have sold shit loads of them but for the money you can do heaps better, some people just dont want to listen and in this case their custom is what becomes important.

on a GTR, twin turbo supra etc the PFC controller has issues controlling the initial boost surge and the boost curve is fairly erratic, up top it is fine but you cannot tune out the initial spikes and troughs something nearly all other boost controller can do easily especially when you look at cost;

average sell prices on it s competition... for the same money you could get a GREDDY profec or a bit more you could get AVCR, BLITZ spec R or IDIII

PFC controller; $399

Profec B spec II $330

HKS EVC V; $575

AVCR; $495-580

BLITZ spec R or IDIII: $400-525

Gizzmo MSIBC; $399 atm

Gizzmo IBC $269 atm

Az_Stryder; If you got it use it simple as that.

I had one in my old R33 (which looked very similar to yours) I thought it was great. It held boost really well and the main thing I liked about it was that I could operate it via the PFC hand controller which sat in my glovebox. This was good because it left my dash looking clean and I didn't have to try and hide boost controllers when the cops pulled me over.

This is my old R33 which looks the same as yours

post-29193-1196396648_thumb.jpg

Ok, so for a GTR they are no good.

But since I got this at a good price (included with a powerfc and commander) do you think I would have many issues on my R33 GTS-t with the standard (and later hiflow) turbo, looking for about 250-280rwkw?

LOL, your old one is exactly the same as mine, including wheels, except front lip.

BTW, dont happen to have one of the centre caps laying around do you, the clips on the inside of one of mine broke and fell off (still have it, but need to glue it back together)??

haha the old objectivity debate hey.... FYI i have been using, selling and importing this gear for around 10years (all my comment s are based on experience not oppinion) and i have sold shit loads of them but for the money you can do heaps better, some people just dont want to listen and in this case their custom is what becomes important.

on a GTR, twin turbo supra etc the PFC controller has issues controlling the initial boost surge and the boost curve is fairly erratic, up top it is fine but you cannot tune out the initial spikes and troughs something nearly all other boost controller can do easily especially when you look at cost;

average sell prices on it s competition... for the same money you could get a GREDDY profec or a bit more you could get AVCR, BLITZ spec R or IDIII

PFC controller; $399

Profec B spec II $330

HKS EVC V; $575

AVCR; $495-580

BLITZ spec R or IDIII: $400-525

Az_Stryder; If you got it use it simple as that.

So for his application it is more than acceptable.

Also you mention 'for the price' yet only one EBC you list as being cheaper, what the?

So for his application it is more than acceptable.

Also you mention 'for the price' yet only one EBC you list as being cheaper, what the?

most units are a small 100 outlay more and offer FAR BETTER VALUE FOR MONEY... simple as that.

check your boost curve on your dyno sheet compared to most other controllers nd you will see the peaks and troughs on initial spool.

These are fine

I have one installed, easy to use without having to put another bling box in your dash.

As for being crap, that's crap.

"No gain setting" ????? Shenanigans !!!!

PS....running R33 with HKS2535, 250rwkws 18psi.....sweeet

easy to switch settings.

You'll be more than happy with it with a standard turbo or a GCG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, my moulds and seals are 32 years old now. I think I will continue to not use a pressure washer on it.
    • I hear the old "I'd never use a pressure washer on my motorbike" BS in the dirtbike community too.  The only people that have had a problem from using a pressure washer on anything are the people that aren't using them properly.  If you hold the wand any more than 45 cms away from pretty much anything (radiators, wiring connectors, paint, etc) you aren't going to cause any damage.  We've had detailers wreck moulds and seals on cars at work before and the only reason why is they held the pressure washer too close and on the one spot for too long.  If you have 5% more brain power than a detailer then you know not to not do that and you'll never have a problem.
    • I'm pretty much healed up post surgery so I spent another almost full day out in the shed re-arranging everything to make room for all of the shit that I've taken off the car.  I need to get everything off the floor and away from the car for when I start making a massive mess stripping off the remaining body deadener and then for the the painting process.  Almost got the shed to a point now where I feel I can actually start working on the car again (clean shed clean mind or something!).  Almost 11 years of accumulated car parts, building supplies, tools, junk, etc have taken a long time to get in some sort of order again!  Most stuff is now boxed up and in the back shed if it's not car related.  Most people would still be horrified walking into my shed but it's significantly better than it was before!   For those that saw my separate post the other day, yeah I ordered one.... This version- I convinced myself to stop being a clown, wake up to yourself and realise it will take you 5 weeks to make one by which stage you're over working on the car again...  Maybe I am getting on top of my "mental ailments" and making smarter choices.... $1450 delivered which will take my miserable half-dutch arse a few days to get over having spent that much!  If I don't have a use for it straight away after my car is off it I might even see if there is a "rental market" for them.  See if anyone wants to hire it for a period of time.  $25 a week or something like that.  I'll worry about that when my car is actually ready to come off it though as that might be a while away!! There's now no excuses now for not ending up with an underside you could eat off! Away for kids sport the next few weekends so hopefully can get the rotisserie assembled ready to go for the car to go straight on it the next available weekend.    
    • I always use my Karcher, but it's only a little one that I picked up from Supercheap  The only issue I ever had with a pressure washer was when I was a kid cleaning coaches, they had a hi-po industrial sized petrol jobbie that would strip paint if you got to close I saying this, we have a fairly high power washer at work with a diesel powered heater that sprays water at about 60°c, it works great for removing old wax and road grime on the underbody after some foam cannon action, albeit from a "stand off" distance of a few feet
    • Sorry no - The sandtrap adventure ended the day, happened at the end of the last session. At that time I wasn't hearing any weird noises nor were the brakes shuddering anymore. It was only when watching the videos that I remembered I had these sounds early on!
×
×
  • Create New...