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3071r Trouble On Rb25

vitz_n1

By vitz_n1,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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vitz_n1 Community Regular

vitz_n1

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, as the title says, im having trouble fitting a 3071 to my rb25 cause its hitting the exhaust manifold.

Now i believe i can use a spacer on the flange to overcome this which is what i planning on doing....BUT... to get a thick enough spacer it leaves me no room to put bolts on because the the bolts on the manifold are too short.....

Im sure people have fitted one of these turbos to an rb25, how'd you do it?

Should i somehow extend the bolts on the manifold and if so, how?

Cheers.

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Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted
Should i somehow extend the bolts on the manifold and if so, how?

Go to an exhaust shop, and buy yourself 4 studs of the correct length. Put some penetrating oil WD40 or lanolin on the existing studs and leave it soak for a while before removing the originals and replacing with the new. Problem solved. :)

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted (edited)

I can confirm all of this - I went through the same process with the turbo in my avatar.

10mm spacer, and longer studs \ bolts

Either that or get the smaller 0.6 compressor cover. Putting a big 0.7 cover on a 3071 probably isn't worth it anyway. Will just make it lagier, and won't make naymore more power unless you are planning on pushing more that say 18psi of boost. I'm running a 0.6 comp cover on my 3076 (or GT3037) at 20psi and it works almost perfectly.

Edited by The Mafia
Robo's Mentor

Robo's

Posted
Posted
Hey guys, as the title says, im having trouble fitting a 3071 to my rb25 cause its hitting the exhaust manifold.

Now i believe i can use a spacer on the flange to overcome this which is what i planning on doing....BUT... to get a thick enough spacer it leaves me no room to put bolts on because the the bolts on the manifold are too short.....

Im sure people have fitted one of these turbos to an rb25, how'd you do it?

Should i somehow extend the bolts on the manifold and if so, how?

Cheers.

Get a small spacer then you'll have to get some longer studs

vitz_n1 Community Regular

vitz_n1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the help guys.

Go to an exhaust shop, and buy yourself 4 studs of the correct length. Put some penetrating oil WD40 or lanolin on the existing studs and leave it soak for a while before removing the originals and replacing with the new. Problem solved. :)

Im gonna give this a shot, fingers crossed it goes to plan.

Keep us updated on the project. I'm looking at one of these turbos in the near future so I'm very interested.

Where did you purchase it from and what sized exhaust wheel and housing does it have?

No worries, will do.

I actually just bought it off a guy in the for sale section. Its the .82 rear housing. not sure of the wheel size, if there is a way to measure let me know and ill get back to you on that.

Thanks again for the help, ill keep ya's posted on how it goes.

  • 2 months later...
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Turbine housing will have 0.63 or 0.82 or 1.06 if its a real Garrett GT30 one .

The outlet side of the exhaust housing will measure a little over 55mm if it has the full sized GT30 turbine in it .

ID tag on the turbo should have 700177-23 on it .

If you can post a pic of the exhaust outlet of your turbo that will tell us the story .

Cheers A .

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

The one vitz got has the .71 nissan style housing, same as simons, so if simon needed a 30mm spacer than it's a fair bet that vitz needs the same.

I've been told that the 3071 with garrett spec turbine housing is a bolt on with the .5 comp cover. no spacer needed. I will confirm in a couple of weeks when i get my shit together and buy one.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was wondering if that was the case - Nissan RB or VG turbine housing . I guess people do this because its a cheap convienent way to bolt the turbo to the manifold and dump pipe .

The Nissan housings are more compact than GT30 ones and the mounting flanges neck if you like is shorter so the whole cartridge or centre section moves closer to the exhaust manifold .

Its your calls but the "convienent" RB/VG housing won't allow the GT30 turbine to work as well as it should .

I see this happen here all the time , in the US they use their Ford style T3 housings on them - known over there as a 5 bolt T3 . If it was that easy and worked Garrett would not have bothered to spend the millions on developing GTxx turbine housings .

The problems as I see them are that the turbine and housing are no longer a matching set , dimensional issues like the spacer one , the petrol spec GT housings are made of high temp material so you don't usually get cracking issues . Also the waste gate and turbine outlet . The 30 series housings are designed to bypass the exhaust gasses around a 30 series turbine where the RB/VG one's are not . The outlet side of a 30 series IW housing can cope far better with the sort of gas flow a 30 series turbine is intended to work with .

Personally I cant see the point of having a non native 300+ Kw turbine in a housing like the VG30 that was designed around a small turbine and ~ 210 kw .

One last point - definitely check the turbos ID tag if it has that hybrid 0.71 A/R turbine housing because I've seen a few of those getting around with the cropped turbine and the 56 trim compressor . The cropped version is turbo number 700382-3 and cartridge number 700177-3 . The real (non junior burgered) cartridge is 700177-"23" .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03
Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

Discopot: yeah very valid points there mate, i didnt have my say in what rear housing i got as i ended up with whart GCG sent me, but the results speak for them selves in my case with it making 265 rwkw on 16 psi and 283 rwkw on 20psi... While no doubt the turbo would make more with a decent rear wheel and housing... i feel that the current set up is pretty bloody good :thumbsup:

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