Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I bought an R32 gtr can't help myself ,the gtst is just to dangerous on the streets way to much power even on low boost for a 2 wheel drive so its going back to stock to be sold of .

Now I ve started playing with the gtr just pulled it down to check the health of the engine and did a search to try and find a healthy compression ratio for an rb26 but it ranges from 80psi to 160 psi and all say engine is fine , well damn thats alot of differance .For the most part the cars stock at one stage I'd say it had an aftermarket boost controller on it but it still has the restrictor on the factory boost control line ,oil pressure is good no water leaks so atm its looking good .

Had one problem with it when I reved it to 8000rpm it blew the dipstick part way out which didn't look good but you could rev it to 6000rpm with no problems so had a bit of a check and found someone had cable tied an electrical junction to the hose that ran to the pvc valve and flatened the hose .well hoping thats the problem havn't had a chance to check that yet as pulled the starter motor out (major operation just doing that )because it sounded a bit iffie, rather fix it now than latter on the side of the road.

So if anyone has any info on any of this please feel free to comment and I'm gonna try and leave it standard though I don't much like my chances already thinking turbos ,Damn my need to fiddle

Cheers Peter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196004-healthy-compression-for-rb26dett/
Share on other sites

thats not my compression ratio thats what they varied from in the posts i searched and that was many posts just to find what was considered a healthy compression level

generally don't look at the actual number, because it can vary between testers and motors, look at variation between cylinders, closer to each other the better, around 15% is probably still ok, but not much more.

I think the manual says its around 160 for a stock 26 and gives a tolerance.

For example my RB26 is rebuilt and it seems its used lower comp pistons (i dont know why you want this but i didnt build the motor bought like this) but was 120-125 across all cylinders. Also blowing a dip stick out isnt a good sign and PCV isnt working at full throttle only light cruise...

Gday Andrew

Yeah was thinking along those line's myself, got no 6 cylinder on the gauge b4 I pulled the starter motor on a slow crank it read 150psi by slow crank I mean like a flat battery and that was with all plug's removed so thought that was good for a start .the service book says to cold crank at about 300rpm which I was nowhere near so keen to see what the other 5 come up with

Hi Alex

The book does give a compression ratio but thats on new engine ,I want the get a rule of thumb on an engine thats done quite a few k's so that why i searched the threads but as I posted some said there engine was good with 80psi and others 100 or 125 ,differnt people had differing ranges all the way to 160 psi which is close to new

People build a low compression engine from new as it allows the to screw more boost into them, a good example are the rb30de blocks with the rb25 or 26 heads on the there comp ratio is only about 7.25 or something like that allows massive boost.The PVC valve is not what I was talking about whether it works on high or low rev's but the vacuum hose leading to it was cable tied so tight it wasn't allowing it to recirculate engine fumes so my resaining was it was building up back pressure in the engine block and that pressure needs a release hence pressure pushing out the dip stick well thats what im hoping thanks for your imput its food for thought

Cheers Peter

I still have to do the, test pulled the starter motor because it sounded sus and wasn't turning engine quick enough so will do complete test when I get it back

don't worry about the gauge reading so much because who knows when pressure gauges get calibrated and if calibrated properly (should be done against a reference manometer). If the results are consistent then you should be ok.

125PSI min in the manual.

160 normal

171 new

no more than 14 psi difference between highest and lowest readings.

Quoting from service manual.

Cams, thottle open or not and crnking speed all make a difference as well as cold or hot.(should be done at operating temp).

I know I know can't help myself its bad ,I was just gonna check the plugs and it snowballed,compression, starter motor, I had to hurry up and put it back together, was thinking of pulling the head of and porting it or maybe even a rebuild with forgies I gotta learn to leave things alone DAMN!!!!!!! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Initial/early bite is a feature of.....generic pads. Things that work cold. Just put Bendix Ultimate in it. If you don't like them, it's only $3.50 wasted and an hour to change them. I've been using Intima SR, and they seem to be a good performance pad. Street friendly and able to take at least a little beating.
    • This is my first post after registering.. I hope i can find useful resources on this forum. Great forum. 
    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
×
×
  • Create New...