Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I pulled into the petrol station today to fill up (after a 80k freeway drive, mostly doing 110kph), and was about to shut the engine off.

It suddenly started making a real loud knocking/banging noise, and idling rough. It sounds like the noise is coming from the top of the engine, but i can feel it through the clutch pedal.

The things ive checked so far are the oil and coolant, which are in perfect condition.

The spark plugs are in mint condition.

I had a look at the pistons with torch and they look excelent too

I pulled the cam cover off the intake side(which is where the noise sounds like its coming from) and everything looked to be in order.

the only mods i have are a pair of pods, and a cam gear. car is driven daily, but not thrashed daily (although it copped a fair bit saturday). Oil changed every 6000ish k's, and its always run on ultimate 98. Its never caused any problems in the 2 years ive had it.

When you crank the engine it doesnt make the noise, only when it fires up.

im thinking the timing belt has slipped a tooth, the cam gear has loosend, or there is some serious bottom end bearing damage.

I know its hard diagnose problems over the web, but any ideas would be great.

thanks heaps,

steve

Edited by PHATR32

Big guess to say it's slipped a tooth. How olds the belt in it?

I wouldnt think a big end knock (bearing issue) would cause it do idle funny...

Could be the other way around. If the cars missing (usual AFM, AAC etc) the piston can do funny things when it goes over TDC and doesn't fire. It can knock about... thats possibly what your hearing.

Sorry I'm no real help, just some thought :)

try and issolate a cylinder if possible. depends how harsh the noice is, wouldnt wana cause any more damge. however by issolating the cylinder your in the general direction. could be a collapsed lifter?

they actually have solid lifters and naturally have fairly loud heads.

My mates GTR had simular noise, sounded like it was in the top of the head etc etc etc, turned out to be a bottom end bearing spun. worst case scenario and for your sake i hope its not.

well i took off the cam cover from the other side (exhaust) and it looks fine, also the timing belt is fine and the markings are exact. the adjustable cam gear also hasnt moved from 0.

i turned the engine over a few times by hand and found it gets stuck when cylinders 3 and 4 are at TDC (or there abouts).

it will turn over bout 2 or 3 times and id feel slight hesiation (cyl 3 and 4 TDC) then on the next turn it would get stuck to the point where id have to give it a bit of force to keep it turning.

Ive checked the belt incase theres a rock or something in one of the teeth but i found nothing.

the tapping noise is REALLY loud btw, but i havnt reved it over 1k, only idled it for a few seconds.

steve

Im very new to skylines and this is probably wrong but thought i'd throw it out there for the hell of it

My brothers r32 (rb20) started making a really loud tapping/knocking noise a couple of days ago, would rise with revs and sounded like it was from one of the front cylinders. It actually turned out to be the clutch on the fan had given up and was making the racket. Its easy enough to test cause you can just slip the belt off and see if the noise goes.

My 2c worth

*Edit* After reading your latest post, probably not what im suggesting...

Edited by Scottydoo

lol, i got shit in my wallet......

when i push the clutch in it still makes the noise, that said, i could definetly feel the banging through the clutch.

although, the clutch wouldnt screw up exactly when pistons 3 and 4 are TDC.

i do all the work my self, of course if the engine requires rebuilding ill have to get a pro to do it as i dont want to risk screwing it up etc.

ill do a compression test tonight to see if itll show anything?

steve

Edited by PHATR32

hey guys,

i just ran a cold compression test and all cylinders were between 135psi - 140psi except for cylinder 3 which is at 45psi!

as mensioned above when i turned the crank by hand it would get stuck when cyls 3 and 4 would hit TDC.

so i pulled the cams off and took off the lifters on cylinder 3. it all looks ok, and the valves move in when i apply force. How can i tell if a valve guide has dropped?

im gonna have to pull the engine out either ways but would anyone have any idea on what could be causing the banging and low compression?

thanks guys,

steve

Edited by PHATR32
  • 2 weeks later...

well, ive been pull the engine bay apart these past few afternoons, and found the pipe that controlls the wastegate actuators had come undone!!

weird thing is i hadnt noticed any increase in boost?? that said, i do have a stock exhaust.....

engine will be out and apart this weekend hopefully.......

i would put money on a spun big end bearing!

i know that sound well, sorry to hear that.

most the time when a big end bearing starts to go , it sounds like it's coming from the top.

russ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...