Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i have a toyota camery also called a scepter wagon ( automatic ), the problem is when stopping at the lights the car tends to shake or raddle? and if i put it into neutral it goes away? im not to sure what it is, but i want to find more info on the problem before i take it into dodgy mechanics.. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196482-car-shakes-when-stoppinghelp/
Share on other sites

needs a 3S-GTE conversion.... LOL

nah, try cleaning out your IAC, and try doing a compression test on your motor.. I had a Celica once, with the 5S-FE heap of shit in it and the head gasket blew at 190xxx km, sick idle, no power.

try to research on coilpacks cuz i got a friend that drive a r34 gt and have similar problem. He found out it was his coilpack and spurg plug to replaces but im not sure how exactly how camery work maybe diff to skylines. im not garrentee ya it will fix that problems.

Good luck!

  • 4 months later...

hey guys sorry to dig up teh old post, i forgot i posted on here for help on the car?, anyways just a update, i got my checked for WOF and it failed coz of engine mounts, but that didnt solve the problem, andther thing is when you stop at lights, the rpm remains still it doesnt move at all, but car still rattles or shake... BUT i notice one thing, when at stop at lights i turned on the air con and the shake tend to be less shaker then then the air con off? im going to get a ssecond hand IAC and see how it goes...

any help will do

cheers

Ha i rem this post.

So is it shaking the ONLY thing it does? Sure its not idling on a few less cylinders then it should be?

Tried moving your head around the engine bay when its occuring? Try zeh old screw driver to the ear trick?

  • 3 months later...
Ha i rem this post.

So is it shaking the ONLY thing it does? Sure its not idling on a few less cylinders then it should be?

Tried moving your head around the engine bay when its occuring? Try zeh old screw driver to the ear trick?

update : now my car dies out when cold in the morning, it goes when its warm? and yes the rpm drops once you put it in drive, but slightly goes up when in neutral? hehe

thanx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I buy my wheel cleaner in 4 litre bottles now. Euro brakes are brutal
    • Sounds like it may all just be some baseless outrage stoked by the carexplore guy? As in the linked social media outrage on facebook just goes back to carexplore as a source again. Further shown by the council response that nothing actually has changed: "The Private Land Use Permit has been part of the Casey Community Local Law for a number of years. It's important to clarify that this permit is not new, and no changes have been made to the permit or the Local Law in relation to the permit." The full council response in Prank's link sounds reasonable to me. Saying that as someone who neither lives there nor has a front yard to call their own  
    • Clutch hydraulics are also all good, looks like a brand new slave cylinder and everything bled up well. No idea what the actual clutch is, and I don't intend to pull the box off on the floor to find out, so unless we have trouble on the dyno or at shakedown that will remain a mystery for the new owner
    • Front brakes are G4 8 pot calipers over 330mm discs with braided lines. Everything looks good, pretty sure these are off my old 350. Pads are brand new and judging from gold colour are Winmax which is what I also run on my race car, Neil and I both sourced brake stuff from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney who really knows his stuff Everything has bled up nicely with all new Motul RBF600 fluid, there were 2 loose hard line connections and the calipers were new on the car so I ended up doing it 3 times but it is perfect now
    • So, starting with the rear brakes. They look like standard R33 GTST, and will need new pads shortly (less than 5mm material, probably only 1 day left). The slotted discs (probably DBA) are near new at 18.01mm and the lines are braided
×
×
  • Create New...