Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im in the market for a late model r32 GTR.

what i want to know is are there any OTHER differences rather than just brakes and wheels that they were released with.

are there any identifiers on the id plate to say its a vspec, like wats to stop some1 putting a set of brembos on and saying its a vspec... maybe any codes or somethin, i dont know..

hope that clarifies wat i wanna know and am asking.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196857-r32-vspecs-and-non-vspecs/
Share on other sites

im in the market for a late model r32 GTR.

what i want to know is are there any OTHER differences rather than just brakes and wheels that they were released with.

are there any identifiers on the id plate to say its a vspec, like wats to stop some1 putting a set of brembos on and saying its a vspec... maybe any codes or somethin, i dont know..

hope that clarifies wat i wanna know and am asking.

thanks

Im pretty sure if run the VIN thru Nissan FAST it would tell you if it is a VSpec... but there is always the possibility VIN plates had been swapped, tho unlikely.

exactly...get the VIN# and post it up in that thread we can check it out. the rest can be swapped pretty easily.

BTW, unless you are a collector that wants to keep it stock, don't bother paying more for a 32 vspec - you could upgrade brakes and tyres yourself for less than the additional cost - and the vspec brakes arent really a big step up anyway.

ye thats wat i wanted to kno thanks! im gonna change it all anyway, brakes, wheels etc jus wanted to see if there was anything special about them haha or was it just the brakes and tyres....

ive found a 93 vspec with 34 gtr wheels and 2560 turbos std suspension for 22k or a 11/1994 for 20k immaculate as they come with 33 gtr wheels and tein coil overs, im tossing up between the 2, the 94 is absolutely clean as but the vspec i think needs some new uni joints or somethin, feels a bit funny as i shifted gears, like a jolt... but other than that it is very clean also... dont kno which one to get!

ill be stripping it down, flaring the guards, painting it, and swapping my running gear and interior as i dont want my car off the road any longer hence looking for a late model immaculate base.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...