Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went down to see the boys at Creatd Motorsport last Friday just to get a check on the car to see if anything was up and a readout.

engine/performance wise only mods are:

-Gtech (Hybrid copy) FMIC,

-Drift Pod (with induction piping where old factory intercooler pipe was)

-boosted about 10.5psi

-full exhaust

stock: ecu, turbo, fuel pump, injectors, coils ect..

first run managed 196.4rwkw, was shocked as i was only expecting like 180. Then the second run it pumped out 200.5rwkw.

they said air/ fuel mixs were really good, and the curve was exeptional for a stock ecu with the mods

so yeah extreamly happy with the result.

just thought id share.

cheers

post-35246-1197270608_thumb.jpg

Edited by jake33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197039-dyno-result/
Share on other sites

MBS206.. i call brand new state of the art dyno dynamics dyno :P i made 206 on that one and 205 on another (the other was without pfc/straight thru exhaust/injectors) and ran 13.1@105mph :P

the tuner of that blokes car wont make up crap to keep the customer happy.. if the car makes 20kw or 400kw, then so be it.

Edited by LTHLRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197039-dyno-result/#findComment-3524750
Share on other sites

like mentioned above, numbers are numbers, track speed at the 1/4 mile is a good indicator of its true hp, not saying your result isnt accurate.

imo a dyno is just a tuning tool, i've seen far to many variences from dyno to dyno to believe hp readings. The only way to accurately compare cars on a dyno is to have one after another on the same day and same dyno, otherwise there are too many variables.

as long as the afr is safe, and its not knocking you should be happy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197039-dyno-result/#findComment-3524838
Share on other sites

Well yeah im very happy. Ha yeah the guys at Creatd said people would label it as a 'happy dyno' I even called B/S to it when i was there.

As said above, its a brand new dyno (6 months or so..) and has been checked/serviced and calibrated twice according to them. They claim its is extreamly accurate.

Considering i leterally drove it in and it went straight on to the dyno, with no fiddling, with timing or anything, and that was the result, im happy.

They almost didnt believe me when i told them the ecu was untouched and they suspected a re map, (hence why they checked after the first run) and for what mods im supporting we were expecting atound 170 to 180.

They also said its rare but not completely uncommon that it makes this sort of power considering the minimal mods.

some people only get like 160, where as some people will get 210 or whatever.. same car, same mods will have different readings due to condition and how well they are taken care of.

At the end of the day. its just a power run, im happy.

cheers

Edited by jake33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197039-dyno-result/#findComment-3525367
Share on other sites

no.. above said shorts have the usual sport short, inner undie section.

thus eliminating the need for actual undies.

Also, I will add that this result was with loss of traction.

If I had a new pair of Nikes and deflated the air bubble down to 15 psi, I would have no doubt cracked the 160kw mark.

AND

intake temps were 23 degrees and on a few odd occasions, the exhaust temps went up in small burst to about 45 degrees. :D

I think I had a few missfire issues on that run..

Next dyno day, I will have the new nikes, remove shirt for extra weight reduction.

I'm thinking I might add a bit of octane booster... I saw soem the other day called Mars... it came in bar form.

"I only eat things in Bar From"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197039-dyno-result/#findComment-3525801
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...