Jump to content
SAU Community

Its Time For A New Turbo.

Dragonforce

By Dragonforce,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dragonforce Rising Star

Dragonforce

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Im torn between a Hi-flow or a new HKS GT-RS.

Looking for some personal opinions here from people who have used either of these or have had a chance to compare them.

Looking though some threads ive noticed the GT-RS has a slightly better power curve on the dyno but was wondering does it justify the extra cost for what seems to be a relatively similar peak power to the GCG hi-flow. I'm chasing street response, no lag monster suggestions please! :P

Well all opinions are welcome!

Thanks,

Dragonforce

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197065-its-time-for-a-new-turbo/
Share on other sites
Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

I"m running the GCG high Flow.

I've been really happy with it. It makes good power and with cams, I've got a pretty fat power curve.

Check out the Dyno graph comparison website in my sig, and have a look at the power curve between my car and some of the GTRS equipped cars.

If I could have my time again, I would probably have gone GTRS or probably even 2835ProS.

At the time of getting my turbo, I'd blown the old one and the fastest way back on the road was a high flow.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Someone here PM'd me just the other day saying they really like their HKS GT2835 Pro S 0.68 A/R on an RB25DET .

The full kit may look expensive but they give you everything to make the turbo fit like all lines a dump pipe etc .

The call was that its very similar to the std pea shooter turbo right down low but comes on reasonably quickly - like a road car turbo should .

This person thought through someone else experience that the 0.87 A/R exhaust housing option cost that nice low-medium range squirt and for the small amount of top end it wasn't worth it on an RB25 .

The guts of it is that the 2835 Pro uses a slightly larger trim version of the same compressor family as the GT-RS uses .

Turbine wise its a little larger and a different family to the GT-RS's one .

Exhaust housing wise the Pro S one is a MUCH better design and with the 2835's turbine will make more power for stuff all difference spool wise .

Like with any change to a turbo engines breathing abilities you HAVE to tune it properly to take full advantage of the upgrade . This kind of thing is a bit beyond what the std computer wants to deal with and dito for the std SMIC .

Sounds like a real nice can live with it everyday road car option to me .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • Jarsky
      gauge needle removal

      By Jarsky · Posted

      I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Jarsky
      R33 GTST Axles

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Jarsky
      R34 Speedo not working after manual swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Rezz
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By Rezz · Posted

      Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...