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my 32 came with a pair of Boss Audio 6.5" speakers in the rear parcel shelf..theyre pretty good and provide some decent bass..im runnig them of the head unit.

Hey the most important thing will be the head unit you choose, i put a clarion one in my car and it gave me no control over the sound and was shit so i got rid of it and put a pioneer one in which lets me control the mid low and high range requencies, bass and treble, can even set offsets so they wont play certain frequencies incase u crank it and the speakers cant handle it... but yeah... if u gunna go cheap go pioneer, if ur spending money then shop around...

as far as the sub goes, theres a unit they sell at newcastle pro sound by some unknown company lol (cant remember brand), which is an 8" sub and and amp built into the same unit and it just slides underneath the seats. My mate bought one and it does the job nicley, very decent sound with decent bass because in his forester he could only fit like 4" speakers in the doors... he went MTX aswell for their bass output but still 4", thats why he bought the sub and amp unit and it works a treat.

Would they fit in the rear parcel shelf of an R33?

My rear speakers just split/came apart, think with all the heat recently. Crap sony ones that came with the car, i just never bothered changing them since rear speakers don't do much. Wouldn't mind getting something to give me a bit of mid-bass on the rear parcel shelf....

Been 6inches its not going to be able to produce deep sub-bass it does go down to 39Hz according to the specs on Jaycar.

Does mention a 10 litre box should be used.

I would be a little worried about how it would sound if its pointing at the glass rather than pointing towards the outside of the boot or similar.

Anyone tried them?

Facing glass is not an issue for subs, just tends to direct the sound forward which is ok.

Only issue is that there is no way you can box them into a sealed enclosure, and as such would sound fairly hollow.

Soundproof your door properly, sit a diffuser behind the speaker, and run either of these - JBL GTO607C or MTX TX6001. Run them off a small two channel, or run all four speakers of a four channel. Doesnt even have to be something pricey. $150 will do it, now is a good time of year to pick up decent 07 stock for cheap.

Guarantee you will be happy.

Most R33's have brackets over the speaker for baby seats or something. Also, can due to the angle of the rear window. Sits a bit cloer than the ol' 31s.

well i'm talking about r32's

and yeah, thats why you get the spacers to raise it up over the baby seat brackets

i doubt the window is that angled that you can't fit 20mm of space off the parcel shelf to mount the speaker

i talked to chris rogers last night he said that would be fine anyway

I have a boot setup similar to Liquids, 2 12'' subs witha side of the boot, takes up bugger all space, also have 2 amps sitting beside battery in that small space, have 6x9's in back parcell shelf wud never get rid of them! lol will make a better shelf outa mdf at some stage, also and 6.5'' splits in front they sweet not much bass tho. 6x9's arnt very hard to put in just pull out whole shelf fit em make sure u measure right so the magnet goes thru the gap when you put shelf back in. I have spacers in atm but will make a better shelf soon make it look more flashy lol

well i'm talking about r32's

and yeah, thats why you get the spacers to raise it up over the baby seat brackets

i doubt the window is that angled that you can't fit 20mm of space off the parcel shelf to mount the speaker

i talked to chris rogers last night he said that would be fine anyway

you also have to fit a drill, unless your gonna 'no more nails' em in there.

32's im not sure, someone mentioned 33s before and i know theyre a bastard to work with.

if you have subs, there is no need for 6x9s.... just a set of 6.5" coaxs int eh back will do it sweet :P

however, like i said earlier in the thread, get the qmax invisibass, a small 2 channel to bridge to run it, and slide it under the front seat...

  • 5 weeks later...

Hi Guys, Been reading the forum and enjoying the info, and it seems like some of you know audio very well. I unfortunately read this forum after purchasing the 6x9's for the rear parcel shelf of my 33GTR and have lost the receipt so taking them back is not an option.

So now I have just bought and installed a set of Alpine 6.5" R series 100 RMS no splits in the front doors and want to put the Pioneer TS-A6972E'S 80 RMS 400 watt max power in the back parcel shelf, what amp would best suit to power this combination running off a Sony MEX BT 2500 head unit and where could I mount the amp, most of the 4 channel amps I've seen are about 350mm x 250mm in size and heat will build up if they are under a seat as the exhaust heats up the floor as well and sometimes I drive for 13 or so hrs straight with stereo pumping all the time.

I have a really good coustic amp in my other car, a ute, but it shuts down as protection when it gets too hot and I hate that, need an amp that will perform under all conditions.Anyone know how good or bad the factory speaker wiring is in 33GTR's and how much it will affect the sound as I don't really want my interior pulled apart and scratched for a minimal improvement in sound to install aftermarket stuff.??

Also has anyone made a good mdf parcel shelf and created a template to reproduce it for 33GTR, as I for one would be prepared to buy one off you to do this install as I don't have the time to do design and construct, would appreciate help on all of these issues.Cheers Rob.

If you can fit a small sub in the cabin it will perform better than one in the boot.

If you want to install one in the parcel shelf you'll need to build an enclosure beneath it.

If you want the lowest bass then 6.5" ain't gonna really cut it - they can't shift enough air - but two (or four) would help.

Driver selection is critical - go for the driver with the most excursion (Xmax) possible.

For the same driver, a ported enclosure will give lower bass than a sealed enclosure, but the ported enclosure will be much larger.

A ported enclosure requires less driver excursion than a sealed enclosure (provided you don't go below the tuning frequency of the port, in which case you unload the port and suffer massive excursion - the reason why many ported subs run a high pass filter set just below the port frequency to prevent damage to the driver)

Sealed enclosures enjoy far superior transient response to ported enclosures, so even though they lack the low bass (for the same driver) they have great impact (rock concerts cut off at around 40Hz, but they still have amazing bass). Don't think that because you can't get below 45-50Hz you can't have great bass, you just can't get low bass.

Don't build a ported enclosure yourself, unless you're prepared to experiment.

Don't get a ported enclosure/driver combo installed unless it's well known and has a good reputation - building good ported speakers requires lots of R&D to get it right - it's very easy to build a badly tuned ported speaker that sounds terrible.

Never buy a pre-built ported enclosure and install a driver - ported speakers need the enclosure to be designed around the driver - even manufacturing tolerances can impact the sound of a ported speaker.

Sealed subs are far more tolerant of variations in box volume and driver specs.

As a home builder of speakers, I only build sealed enclosures, as I can't be bothered endlessly experimenting with box sizes to suit a particular driver. I'm happy to sacrifice the lowest bass for the tightest bass at a higher frequency.

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