Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTST is right, thats what I used and put the air intake to the front bar for a ram effect which works well and thanks for linking to my thread GTST a picture explains better.If you look close at the airbox you will see the afm plug is into the air box,using an old afm this is an easy mod and keeps the boys in blue of your back .

Abu the airbox to turbo pipe is 90mm same at turbo inlet and custon outlet on the airbox all made to look as stock as possible .If you look close at the engine pic in the link you can see between the crossover pipe and the rockercover the plumb back pipe which plumbs back the the new airbox to turbo pipe so all looks legal

cheers Peter

Thanks for that Peter.

Yeah when you look closely, you can see the little things you pointed out. Its all very neat and subtle!

Your running a MAP hence the AFM plug?

I run a return flow cooler setup so I can't do the CAI from the stock cooler piping holes, is there any other good possible way of doing it?

I was thinking from the little gap behind the headlight, sort of were the stock snorkel goes, could I make a CAI from there into the front bar?

I got a GTR bar like yours so gets plenty of airflow through it, and plenty of room to hide a duct behind it now that the stock cooler is out!

Does anyone have any recommendations?

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you may be able to put a hole on the SIDE of the bottom half of the air box.

then make another hole down there next to the intercooler pipes.

then route a CAI in from there..

If you still have your SMIC, then it wouldn't be a good idea to have a pipe blocking some of it to get air to the filter.

a hole in the box as described above, with a pipe going from there to say 3 cm out of the bottom of the hole you put int he chassis would still be beneficial as it would still "SUCK" cold air from there..

it just wouldn't have the ram air effect that a CAI facing forward on the front bar would have.

My liberty setup is different but I'll take a few pics over the weekend to show you what a small but effective CAI would look like.

i've gone as far as that by cutting that little strip behind the headlight which allows you to fit a bigger diametre hose/pvc pipe through.Havent gone any further then facing the pvc pipe down as any further it obstructs my smic.

i use a 90deg pvc down pipe joiner,its rectangle no round either so it fits tight.

Cheers GTST. thats gonna be my job this weekend.

Edited by FATAZZ
you may be able to put a hole on the SIDE of the bottom half of the air box.

then make another hole down there next to the intercooler pipes.

then route a CAI in from there..

If you still have your SMIC, then it wouldn't be a good idea to have a pipe blocking some of it to get air to the filter.

a hole in the box as described above, with a pipe going from there to say 3 cm out of the bottom of the hole you put int he chassis would still be beneficial as it would still "SUCK" cold air from there..

it just wouldn't have the ram air effect that a CAI facing forward on the front bar would have.

My liberty setup is different but I'll take a few pics over the weekend to show you what a small but effective CAI would look like.

Not a bad idea but not prepared to cut any holes in the chassis! Been trying to avoid that lol

I may have to find another way to get air into the box without cutting a hole in the chassis, I have a write up on a mod you can do somewhere behind the headlight to allow more into the engine bay?

I've got it at home, but I will see if I can find it now. Its quiet a good mod, and pretty easy to do!

i've gone as far as that by cutting that little strip behind the headlight which allows you to fit a bigger diametre hose/pvc pipe through.Havent gone any further then facing the pvc pipe down as any further it obstructs my smic.

i use a 90deg pvc down pipe joiner,its rectangle no round either so it fits tight.

Cheers GTST. thats gonna be my job this weekend.

Yeah I think that what I'm talking about, you can remove like a panel or section yeah?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Absolute Legend 🍻 After fighting with the scanned ones for the last 10 years this is a God send 
    • ATTAKD 356mm Brake Kit for R34 GTT or R33 GTST. Same brake kit as per here from JJ: https://justjap.com/products/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02?currency=AUD Can confirm these will bolt directly to a R33 GTST with 12mm bolts OR to a R34 GTT (which is what I had) with the supplied bolts and the collets for the 14mm bolt holes in the R34, which are included. Also included is a set of rotors and hats, as well as 2x brake pad sets. 1) DBA XP (street, hills) 2) Forza FR6 (track) These are radial mounted and bolt directly to R33/R34. You will need extended brake lines to avoid them being full stretch on lock - this is common for all BBK's with the bolt point being in the center. In my case I welded another stud about 25mm lower than the OEM one and retained stock lines and fittings. You'll want a BM57 BMC to get the most out of these. I speak from experience. $1800 (neg for SAU people), located SE Suburbs Melbourne.
    • Set of R33 GTST Calipers, Rotors and Pads. Calipers just taken off my car, rebuilt about ~30,000km ago. Rotors have done about ~20,000km total since new. Pads have plenty of meat. One set is DBA XP (road, hills) and the other set is Forza FR6 (track) Still working perfectly, not rusted, or seized or whatever the hell that greets used brakes. All clips, bolts, retainers, slide pins etc included. Also have OEM handbrake shoes I can throw in there if you're doing a conversion. $650 for the lot, SE Suburbs Melboune/VIC
    • I feel I have covid right now. I spent the time between Dec 21 and Jan 31 pretty much working 16 hour days on the car after it got back from paint. It turns out you generate a long list of "things to do" while the car is off the road but functional. After going to visit my mate for a "Couple of hour job" doing the brakes, 3 full days later I got home There was more on the list, (it got added to while sleeping on couches) but as everything on the list got enthusiastically crossed out as it happened, I've actually forgotten what they were. From memory there were bushes that had to be pressed in and out, washer jets to fit, etc. Some Gregging highlights: 1) The panel shop covered up my washer jets and painted over it. Good job, I think. We had to drill the new bonnet to fit new ones, which was understandably extremely scary. 2) My handbrake on the RHS is f**ked. After never adjusting it forever and learning on the fly, this one is still on my to-do list. It tightens when you pull the lever, but at about 10% of the tension that the passenger side does. Thoughts on what causes this would be great. 3) Pouring an entire liter of brake fluid over the reservoir because I forgot how to use my pressure bleeder. DON'T PUT FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR. IT WORKS BY USING PRESSURIZED AIR NOT PRESSURIZED FLUID.   471907729_9242915229093447_2708910336906717367_n.mp4  I can confirm the vents work great though. 4) Some of the bodykit fixings were f**king awful. I'm talking screwed in with what was at most a 2mm screw, and could flap the kit around by hand. Too many others to mention. They came in, went out of my brain forced by other stupid tiny things that came up and "While the car is on the damn hoist we can fix them" which was a mission in and of itself, because the car has skirts and is thus a pain to put on hoists. Because we had to buff the windscreen to get rid of the overspray, I also had to very gently wash the car. The "Run 3 wires" task was to re-attempt another gregging thing which was: The LS1 ECU in Australia does not have oil pressure wiring because the Commodores do not have a 'real' oil pressure switch The Corvettes in the USA do have oil pressure wiring because Corvettes have a real oil pressure switch. The ECU is the same physical ECU. So what I could do is pull the ECU apart, run 3 more pins and run it to the OEM oil pressure ECU, and the ECU should do this. What actually happened is that Greg did this with some not-so-proper-wiring/connectors to the ECU pins which 'might?' be okay put the car back together, and then the fuel pump wouldn't prime. So you can imagine I immediately undid all this work, put the ECU back into it's original configuration, thought I'd do some more research about what connectors the LS1 Ecu actually uses... and try again later. Except still no fuel pump prime. After a lot of sadness and checking/double checking it turns out it was the relay in the boot that controls the fuel pump. All I did was switch the trigger wires and it worked fine. I looked at the relay and it was covered in bog dust and was unknown years old. It's since been replaced and working fine. After I got the actual connectors, and the wires were ran I gathered my strength and repinned the ECU and Voila! I apologize for these MMS  472164532_8829400773820369_5410969472548349643_n.mp4  And even via ODB2 on the headunit, woo. Now Torque Pro can raise hell on track if it gets too low. It has a wonderful EMERGENCY_DISTRESS_SINGAL style warning if it goes below a certain threshhold. 472585876_9345134268844369_146554337148747327_n.mp4 TLDR: Car great. HFM kit works. So much cleaning. Buy my old stuff. Thanks.   
    • That's a hell of a question right there and so broad that you could get 100 different answers and have them all be correct.  To avoid me typing up a 2000 word thesis that doesn't answer your question, do you have specific things you are unsure of? Does the car currently handle in a way that you don't like? Or is it closer to, you think the car drives fine currently. But you'd like it to be better, but you don't know what that 'better' is or what that 'better' feels like?
×
×
  • Create New...