Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hehe chucks his flamesuit on

i agree about the one with the most money wins, but as you asked rb20lagwagon revs vs power low down i'll have to say the car with more power down low but the ability to keep that power going as ya get higher :D hehehe

Rb25's a nutshell? i think not :P

adrian :(

It depends on the race and the cars set up.

I hate my RB20, It revs to8300 has heaps of power but below

5000rpm Nannas Magna is faster so in day to day traffic its a dog

but a Wannerro its a lot of fun.

RB20s have a very short stroke and much less torque than 2.0L 4 cylinder motors like SR20s thats why i'm building an RB31DETT

stroker for my GTS-X. No RB20 is going to be a match on the track or strip for a motor like this, Nissan would have used RB20s in GTRs if they were the go.Don't get me Wrong 20s are still a good motor but there is always something better.

Thanks for the cheque. Hope it's enough:)

I think maybe top end power for drags and low down for racing (on circuits without long straights)

Years ago when I mistakenly left Nissan for a Mazda Rallycar my sponsor built a periphial port 13B engine for me. I had the option of big ports like everyone else or small. I went for small and that engine kicked butt and whipped all the works cars up the Zig Zag in Kalamunda in a national rally (grandfather of Rally Australia). The car just leapt out of corners while others were waiting for the revs to rise.

Unfortunately the car was a pig to handle (ask Ken :D )

But the engine was magic

Cheers

Lag Wagon. :D

The answer to the question you didn't ask ...

Is cubes .....

End of the day, engines aside, more cubes will always win, when "everything is equal"

More low down, more top end, more everything.

The only reason we have these Rb20 v rb25 debates is that everything is not equal and we have to deal with how engines are built. Rather than having every engine well engineered.

The only draw back that cubes has when technology is equal, is the basic weight of the engine itself. This will affect size of car and weight placement. Probably most important in a track/circuit/rally cars where handling is as important than power. Drags , very little difference, extra power will overcome.

I wouldn't have said cubes, coz the Formula 1/Indy cars are only 3litres from memory, but they rev out to 16,000rpm or something crazy like that!!!

I would have said low down for street and rev's for racing, but it does depend on type of racing... If something with tight turns and lots of them, then low down would be better...

Just my thoughts on the matter...

If you look at the street-drags in japan, the fastest GTRs at each meet are not the ones with the biggest turbos, theyre the ones with the "smaller" turbos that belt off the line. It always makes me wonder why anyone would use a T88.

Im not sure what the jap tuning houses use for the 1000m runs, but Id be interested to find out.

Lets face it most of us are daily drivers, none of us (bar ken :D ) are rich enough to own daily driven cars and race cars :P So for most people it would low down response with small turbo's producing power from low revs. Sure if your building a drag car you'd go for the biggest turbo you could fit under the bonnet thats ultra laggy but produces huge HP, cos you'd never drive it day to day on the street cos it would be a dog and when it did spool it would be dangerous :(

thanks for that rob...

personally i think the RB20 is a great little engine BUT put a decent size turbo on it and it dies in the ass. its horrible around the street and an automatic v6 commodore is quicker off the line. you do learnt to adapt your driving style to stay within the power band but its the main reason why i changed my turbo to a smaller unit.

i think its a matter of balancing both things out, low down power is good, but useless if u have no top end to keep on going. but as many have said around the street you can beat low rpm power

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...