Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I am looking around trying to find a transmission cooler for my C4.

Can someone give me some information about choosing which size to buy?

I am looking at a Davies Craig cooler, specs are

Thickness - 19mm

Height - 216mm

Length - 280mm

$170...

Any info would be great.

Edit

Spoke with PWR, 2 x 19x255x280 needed.

Edited by [200]
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197482-transmission-coolers/
Share on other sites

I'm also interested to know what/which oil coolers people on here are recommending/using..

I was gonna ask about which tranny cooler people would recommend for my S1 GTS-T, but this bassicaly covers my question.

I was considering a V8 cooler from something like a Commodore or maybe a Soarer, cause i assumed if it was made for the reasonably high torque they put out then it would probably be fine for me as well..

I had a close look at my standard tranny cooler, and i gotta admit - it was a piss poor effort from the factory at Nissan.

So yeah, start throwing cooler ideas & opinions into this thread so anyone else with an auto can have a gander..

stick the biggest cooler you can fit in the spot where you want to fit the thing. the bigger the better. the coolers that get stuck on the front of BA falcons when their radiators shit themselves are great and if you buy the whole kit you get brackets, 2m of hose, hose clamps and tech screws to bolt it to the car.

Spoke with PWR, 2 x 19x255x280 needed.

What sort of horsepower & torque do you have for them to quote twin coolers like that ?

Is the standard tranny cooler inside the bottom of the radiator ?? Because i thought it was the piss poor cooler in front of my radiator on the drivers side, but am now thinking it's only the power steer cooler.. It'd be a bitch to pull it off and replace it then find out its only the power steer unit..

I only ask coz i have been getting frothing of my fluid (can hear it frothing through the lines @ 150+ kph at full throttle) and am looking at putting a large(ish) front mounted tranny cooler on to see if that helps with some synthetic fluid as well.

I searched this entire forum, and there's surprisingly very little regarding transmission coolers in here...

I've been to the wreckers, and found 2 different coolers that "might" be ok. One is a 'honeycomb' type from a VP Commodore - looks like it flows a fare amout, but wouldn't have a clue on it's cooling capabilities. The other is a tube & fin style from a VT Commodore - looks like it'd cool reasonably well, but not sure how well it'd flow...

We need more info in here on tranny coolers eg; sizes, where from (brand/shop/other vehicle etc.), results, etc. If people are running aftermarket coolers, please share with us as much details as you can for future searches in this forum.

Cheers

i have dealt with drivetech coolers for a few years now and never had a problem with any off them, have fitted one of their oil coolers and power steering coolers to my car, every cooler i fitted to vehicles when working for my ex boss was drivetech, very well made unit, kits come with brackets,hoses,clamps etc. personally i wouldnt use second hand shit because you dont know if they are blocked/broken/bent. with the size of cooler required it all depends on how much space you have, as for style well thats up to you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...