Jump to content
SAU Community

I Want More Acceleration

DECIM8

By DECIM8,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DECIM8 Grand Master

DECIM8

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Ok I just wrote a Essay and the stupid I.E shut down so here I go again;

Ive got a R34 GTT with the following:

Trust HG FMIC

SBC I.D 3 - Running 10psi - gain 7-8

Safc Neo

Full exhaust, split dump, high flow catco, 3.5inch catback and 4" cannon.

CAI with apexi Pod

Greddy Coilovers type S and sways

Now the thing is really built for tight cornering, hard acceleration and Red light launching. My tune all changed that, its spring was cut down after its tune, more top end less accleration ;) pitty really cause thats what I like.

Now I figure ive got a few options,

Get the Safc re-tuned as it has been tuned in easy mode and the $200 I spent on it being tuned was not worth it, Use pro mode and its 500rpm intervals to give it abit more edge down low? I feel the safc changes are effecting the timing and without a sitc to change ignition im not going to achive the accleration I want.

Hook up a nice EMU like the Greddy Emanage and milk out the right tune with optional ignition and injector lead all for the same price as a new safc neo. Which may I add I might have for sale soon. depending on what people advise.

Buy a powerfc and go all out, main reason this appeals to me is the knock is shown onscreen and I know im not blowing up my engine. The shit side is that its so expensive and I also dont have a need or want at this period in time to bolt on a bullshit turbo setup.

Now to those who had the emu hooked up, how much did it set you back for install and tune? and also to a power fc guys how much am I looking at for a tune?

And what do people think I should do to get that, V-TEC YO! feel?

Thanks in advance :wave:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197536-i-want-more-acceleration/
Share on other sites
GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

Nathaniel, I'm not sure what your question was so :domokun:

Your future choice of management depends on what your doing with the car in the future (surprise surprise)

If the cars almost how you like it, power wise, then use a cheaper, limited option; piggy back, eManage and try and get some of that "spring back" you talk of.

If u know you want to really fly, then clearly get PFC, Haltech, Autronic plug in.

Generally, tidy up tune is $200 - $400, and a full tune $500 - $1000.

Call local tuners for solid pricing.

Paul GTS Explorer

Paul GTS

Posted
Posted

PMSL.

When I went from standard management up to the power fc it made a huge difference to the feel of the engine, way more responsive and faster at a lower boost pressure.

I would recommend getting one of these as they are great bits of kit. Then get a HKS turbo for even more grin factor!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...