Jump to content
SAU Community

1997 Project R33


Recommended Posts

Hey ok i have a 1997 r33 which i bought as a shell which was in an electrical fire and is a repairible write-off, i have almost finished building it up but my daily driver is starting to die n needs some love and i dont have any spare cash to finish this.

Its almost finished being repaired, i had to completely replace all rear end parts tail lights, rear bar, boot, i put in an manual rb25de as i had it lying around, would be perfect for rb30det conversion, the shell was a turbo shell so has 5 stud 17X9's which need new tyres, i have replaced wiring looms but some wiring still needs to be done, complete dash, aircon, heater box was replaced, engine bay was stripped to bare metal and sprayed gloss black looks hot as,

Still needs front widscreen, front gaurds, headlights, clutch fan, and some air con bits if you want aircon,

front bar is gtr style but needs some fiberglass work, also needs full re-spray as its in 2 diff colours atm

Have bonnet but corners bent may be fixable i dont know

i have got urethane gear box mount, diff mounts and sway bar mounts, interia is immaculate condishon, body is very straight.

does need viv but i can provide a tax recept for the car with the work for ease of this.

Looking for $5700 will consider swaps for cheap turbo manual, r32,33,silvia, 180 ect with some cash ajustment, would concider including my daily with a swap 1990s auto pulsar q, needs t/belt waterpump n driveshaft boot with 11 months reg

Im in SE melb neer knox city

pm or msg me 0401011380

cheers Jarrod

post-21352-1197544711_thumb.jpg

post-21352-1197544782_thumb.jpg

post-21352-1197544856_thumb.jpg

PRICE DROP TO $5000

Now includes turbo conversion, walbro fuel pump, fuel pressure reg, thick alloy radiator, and black HKS front mount cooler kit

Also on ebay

Edited by unarmed_skyline
Link to comment
Share on other sites

360 veiws and no interest?? i've got lots of spares for this car, if someone buys it this week ill throw some wide fiberglass fenders and mabye black hks front mount cooler kit with stock piping location, for $5000, would mean only things to get in on the road is headlights,clutch fan, windscreen and respray, and ecu, this combo made around 170kw at the wheels with only 5psi on r32 turbo with full boost by 1800rpm on microtech ecu, will consider selling with microtech for $6000.

I need this gone so i can repair my daily

oh forgot to saw got, walbro fuel pump and adj fuel pressure reg,

pics with gaurds and front mount

post-21352-1198128632_thumb.jpgpost-21352-1198128714_thumb.jpg

Edited by unarmed_skyline
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...