Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the topic says, whilst removing my stock dump pipe the passenger side top bolt snapped, with the thread stuck in the turbo side. the other 5 bolts were all ok, and sprayed in wd40 beforehand but this top bolt was very brittle and snapped.

my new single piece dump/front pipe is bolted up, but i now have a big exhaust leak between the turbo and the dump, at the top because there is no bolt to hold it together. i can feel a fair amount of air leaking at idle if i put my hand there.

i've been told my turbo will have to be removed to get this broken bolt out. can anyone recommend a place where i should take it in perth, to fix this properly for good? anyone got an idea what i should be paying for this labour, so i don't get ripped? any help is appreciated.

cheers,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19780-help-dump-turbo-bolt-snapped/
Share on other sites

Man - not good. Boo to rusted brittle studs!

Pulling the turbo out isn't an impossible job - Zanda and I managed it on his car ok. Once you have it out you could try what is called an "easy out". Basically you drill a pilot hole into the offending stud and bash this "easy out" thing in with a hammer and then use it to turn out the remaining thread.

If you're not confident doing that then a workshop is definitely the go but it's gonna cost a fair amount of coin because of the labour time involved.

Good luck either way man...

  • 5 years later...

i too got a broken bolt on the turbo-to-front pipe.. :(

and it wasnt evan me who broke it..

anyways i blew my turbo yesterday..

well not blew..no smoke and i can still drive...

just really really loud bearing noise...lol

i didnt get the car home, till lik 6ish..

and i started removing intake pipe, heat shield etc.. straight away...

i got the 2 top nuts off the turbo that hold it to the manifold..

and 3 that are on the side that hold the exhaust/front pipe..

but my mate decide to have ago..and he broke one..

anyways..i was thinking about drilling it out while the turbo is still in place..

would this b a good idea??

i believe i can get a drill in there..

but any ideas or tips would b great

im getting another turbo put back on so...aslong as i dont destroy the front pipe..i should b ok..

oh yeah..is there any real good removal help guide for turbos for rb25det or fitting guides that anybody knows off?

bit of a tight fit to drill

unless you have a right angle drill?

also since the turbos bust, why not just remove it?

is it possible to weld a nut onto it then remove it?

mate did with snapped studs in the head

well i got if off...

i got another topic on this,..a separate topic on..coz the main problem was the turbo was whining...

and it still is..

anyways..

i got new gaskets today..so im trying that,,,

but this turbo i fitted..a series 1 r33 turbo...

had a snap stud in the corner..lol

and ther person has tried to drill it out twice..but couldn't get it out..

its fitted to the car already..

a mate from work recons i should have drill it out completely and put a bolt and nut on it instead of just leaving it..

plus put the new gasket on with exhuast(copper colour type) sealant..thats sensor safe..

i also got told to do this by a turbo place MQT in perth..just on the bell-mouth/dump side only...

is there a easier way to get those 2 bottom nuts on the dump/turbo wen the turbo is on the car???

i had to remove the 3 dump/front pipe bolts and coz i couldn't get to the 2 nuts wen i took my turbo the first time...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...