Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the topic says, whilst removing my stock dump pipe the passenger side top bolt snapped, with the thread stuck in the turbo side. the other 5 bolts were all ok, and sprayed in wd40 beforehand but this top bolt was very brittle and snapped.

my new single piece dump/front pipe is bolted up, but i now have a big exhaust leak between the turbo and the dump, at the top because there is no bolt to hold it together. i can feel a fair amount of air leaking at idle if i put my hand there.

i've been told my turbo will have to be removed to get this broken bolt out. can anyone recommend a place where i should take it in perth, to fix this properly for good? anyone got an idea what i should be paying for this labour, so i don't get ripped? any help is appreciated.

cheers,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19780-help-dump-turbo-bolt-snapped/
Share on other sites

Man - not good. Boo to rusted brittle studs!

Pulling the turbo out isn't an impossible job - Zanda and I managed it on his car ok. Once you have it out you could try what is called an "easy out". Basically you drill a pilot hole into the offending stud and bash this "easy out" thing in with a hammer and then use it to turn out the remaining thread.

If you're not confident doing that then a workshop is definitely the go but it's gonna cost a fair amount of coin because of the labour time involved.

Good luck either way man...

  • 5 years later...

i too got a broken bolt on the turbo-to-front pipe.. :(

and it wasnt evan me who broke it..

anyways i blew my turbo yesterday..

well not blew..no smoke and i can still drive...

just really really loud bearing noise...lol

i didnt get the car home, till lik 6ish..

and i started removing intake pipe, heat shield etc.. straight away...

i got the 2 top nuts off the turbo that hold it to the manifold..

and 3 that are on the side that hold the exhaust/front pipe..

but my mate decide to have ago..and he broke one..

anyways..i was thinking about drilling it out while the turbo is still in place..

would this b a good idea??

i believe i can get a drill in there..

but any ideas or tips would b great

im getting another turbo put back on so...aslong as i dont destroy the front pipe..i should b ok..

oh yeah..is there any real good removal help guide for turbos for rb25det or fitting guides that anybody knows off?

bit of a tight fit to drill

unless you have a right angle drill?

also since the turbos bust, why not just remove it?

is it possible to weld a nut onto it then remove it?

mate did with snapped studs in the head

well i got if off...

i got another topic on this,..a separate topic on..coz the main problem was the turbo was whining...

and it still is..

anyways..

i got new gaskets today..so im trying that,,,

but this turbo i fitted..a series 1 r33 turbo...

had a snap stud in the corner..lol

and ther person has tried to drill it out twice..but couldn't get it out..

its fitted to the car already..

a mate from work recons i should have drill it out completely and put a bolt and nut on it instead of just leaving it..

plus put the new gasket on with exhuast(copper colour type) sealant..thats sensor safe..

i also got told to do this by a turbo place MQT in perth..just on the bell-mouth/dump side only...

is there a easier way to get those 2 bottom nuts on the dump/turbo wen the turbo is on the car???

i had to remove the 3 dump/front pipe bolts and coz i couldn't get to the 2 nuts wen i took my turbo the first time...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...