Oils - Engine, Gearbox, Which Ones And Where To Get?

[SLED]

Hi SLED , thought I would just say that if your car was a new import, they would of had to put new oil in the car for compliance reasons .

The question is what type of oil . If the car was complied by a reputable workshop , they should of put in a good quality oil anyway.

But even then , I must admit , that I changed every oil in my car in the first month .

Mark Tilbrook recomended me to do this ,and I did ,so I wouldn't get any nasty surprises.

Just my 2c for you . Michael

Yeah I thoroughly agree Mike....I can't wait to dump all the oils and coolant and start fresh.

[Hillzy]

I've got Redline in my gearbox and when cold the second gear syncro can make a bit of a noise... uh ohh

[SLED]

I've got Redline in my gearbox and when cold the second gear syncro can make a bit of a noise... uh ohh

Well you know what Bunny33 said on the previous page.......she may have a point there Hillzy.

i personaly know 2 ppl that their gear boxes have blown from using redline it damages the syincros (spelling) and mechanics i know only use redline in jap gear boxes when they need to shut them up if their is a little bit of a noise

[Hillzy]

Now I'm getting a little worried.. hmm

[SLED]

Now I'm getting a little worried.. hmm

Might be time to flush the dunny and put something different in there buddy.

[pkblade]

Sorry pkblade but nearly everything you've stated here has been proven incorrect.

Synthetic oil used to be known for the couple of extra horsepower it could give you on the dyno but at the expense of your engines internals....it will not protect against piston skirt and bore scuffing and generally leaves your plugs too wet not to mention poor oil pressure and excessive oil consumption.

ULX-110 will always have better cling factor than Synthetic which is what we mainly need....an easy test is to half fill 2 glasses with each oil and stir then see which one clings on the side of the glass the longest......Synthetic oils have always been known to be bad for cold starts anyway.

As far as change between intervals, Mack Trucks in the USA have approved ULX-110 for 40,000 miles before change.

RB engines already have enough issues with their oil galleries and passages being too large so why would exaggerate the problem by using synthetics?

Well to begin with since I'm incorrect you might, as well as, inform all those who make & engineer these synthetic oils that they're incompetent in what they're doing .

I didn’t say it’s cos of the oil that Top Fuelers regularly inspect the engine. Also, don’t know why you’re using Top Fuel dragsters as an example, they use thicker custom blends to suit their engine & application & same goes for diesel trucks as, implied by 'mid life crisis' - apples & oranges. The engines in our jap imports have much smaller clearances than most Aussie or American built pushrods so, a healthy RB engine using a suitable full synthetic is perfectly fine. Unless your engine is showing signs of wear your claim of excessive oil consumption with all synthetics is just codswallop.

Also, the problems you’ve mentioned aren’t really an issue for our dailys unless you start dramatically increasing the power &/or regularly go to the drags/ track or just like to hit the rev limiter for fun. In which case, I highly doubt the type of oil you use will miraculously solve the oil flow problems associated with our RB engines when racing. There are other more sure & direct measures to aid this problem (eg. larger sump, adding external return hose, modifying oil feeds & return galleries etc).

The test regarding oil clinging to glass don’t mean jack, many full synthetics have been engineered to bond with metal surfaces. Is your engine made of glass??

Also, there are synthetics that have extra additives as well that do similar things Ultra-Lube claims their product can do. I don’t have anything against ULX-110, nor semi-synthetics which I’ve used them in the past (namely Fuchs “Australia’s fastest oil” *awaits for cheque in mail* ) but, was religious in changing it every 5000kms. However, I am sceptical when companies make larg Hp gain claims & it being superior to all synthetics whether full or semi when some of them also consist of similar additive make-ups.

Also, care to expand on the statement that all suitable synthetics are notoriously bad for cold starts & especially how so for turbo engines?

[Fishpaste~]

ummm.. not to change subject here or anything, but...

anyone know of a good place to get stock oil and air filters?? =P

cheers

Edited December 20, 2007 by Fishpaste~

[typevu]

Nissan?

[SLED]

Well to begin with since I'm incorrect you might, as well as, inform all those who make & engineer these synthetic oils that they're incompetent in what they're doing.

I didn’t say it’s cos of the oil that Top Fuelers regularly inspect the engine. Also, don’t know why you’re using Top Fuel dragsters as an example, they use thicker custom blends to suit their engine & application & same goes for diesel trucks as, implied by 'mid life crisis' - apples & oranges. The engines in our jap imports have much smaller clearances than most Aussie or American built pushrods so, a healthy RB engine using a suitable full synthetic is perfectly fine. Unless your engine is showing signs of wear your claim of excessive oil consumption with all synthetics is just codswallop.

Also, the problems you’ve mentioned aren’t really an issue for our dailys unless you start dramatically increasing the power &/or do regular drag/ track work or just like to hit the rev limiter reguarly for fun. In which case, I highly doubt the type of oil you use will miraculously solve the oil flow problems associated with our RB engines when racing. There are other more sure & direct measures to aid this problem (eg. larger sump, adding external return hose, modifying oil feeds & return galleries etc).

The test regarding oil clinging to glass don’t mean jack, many full synthetics have been engineered to bond with metal surfaces. Is your engine made of glass??

Also, there are synthetics that have extra additives as well that do similar things Ultra-Lube claims their product can do. I don’t have anything against ULX-110, nor semi-synthetics which I’ve used them in the past (namely Fuchs “Australia’s fastest oil” *awaits for cheque in mail* ) but, was religious in changing it every 5000kms. However, I am sceptical when companies make larg Hp gain claims & it being superior to all synthetics whether full or semi when some of them also consist of similar additive make-ups.

Also, care to expand on the statement that all suitable synthetics are notoriously bad for cold starts & especially how so for turbo engines?

Gee.....I must have hit a bit of a nerve there pkblade. I didn't mean to offend you in anyway and I'm sure your a nice guy but honestly, have another read of your recent post.....you like the word 'codswallop', I think 'dribble' might be more appropriate.

You seem to make alot of rash statements without qualifying anything so I assume it's based on your personal experience. I've based everything on documented evidence by people who have spent millions in testing and as far as testing fluids on chalk rather than cheese, GMH and every other large car manufacturer have been doing this on the race track for years before attempting anything in a passenger car. It stands to reason that subjecting oil to the extremes of a Mack truck and top fueler or a Formula 1 is the best test possible.....how do recommend these billion dollar international companies should conduct their testing then?

I'm not sure what your backgound is or what experience you've had but since you asked, at Adelaide Engine Service we used to do alot of the testing of friction modified oils vs the likes of Redex, Repco's non-friction modified (many years ago, probably before you were born) because of the excessive oil consumption in brand new Jap cars especially 4cyl Datsuns. We put out a white paper to the MTAA about our findings and it wasn't long after that Repco, Southcotts and the RAA began to warn about the dangers of some oils and there effects in new bores. Over recent years it hasn't been as crucial due to the different methods, materials and honing of bores (ie cross hatching at various angles and grades etc).

By the way, if you don't like experimenting with your kitchen glasses, try baked bean cans.......same results.

I probably shouldn't have responded to this post either, but ahhhh how much more can a koala bear?!

[SLED]

This is quoted directly from their website...

"Redline Lightweight ShockProof®

A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions). It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil, but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil.

Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles."

I have herd the exact same things about syncro wear, hence why i do not use it in my car. IMO Castrol brands are the cheapest and the best form of lubrication for diffs and gearbox's but each to his own.

Hey Dave....I didn't realy pay attention to your post before but it sounds like good info....thanks for the heads up.

[DIOR 33]

stock filters can be cought from any automotive shop eg autobarn get ryco as they have an anti drain back valve and have a better filtration system as the webbing inside is 4 times as long as wesfil so better filtering and the r33 on is under $10 i think aslo the nissan ones are made by ryco just stamped nissan as is holden ford and mitsu but they dont tell you that as they want you to think that if your getting a manufactures filter the service is better but this is not the case and yes i do know this for a fact as all those training nights at autobarn werent all for nothing

also royal purple is once again for high reving engines as in being on the track if you dont belive me theo gt autosound also a friend of mine and he uses it in his drag s15 i promiss you dont need that sort of oil for every day driving and a few hills runs now in saying all this if you want to spend money cause it makes you happy or what ever then buy the motul 300v now the most intence race ever would have to lemoun (spelling sorry) the 24hr car race anyway and guess what they use.....yes motul,

now working at autobarn you really need do need to know what your talking about when it comes to oil and performance and ppl that know me know i know what im on about most of the time but if you give someone the wrong oil, verscosety, weight and brand then i could cause them to be sued i also recomend what i use and that goes for workshops and so on so if anyone on sau is using redline pleeeas change it straight away cause i do love you all so and um yeah thats all

[SLED]

stock filters can be cought from any automotive shop eg autobarn get ryco as they have an anti drain back valve and have a better filtration system

Yeah thanks for the good info Bunny. I went through a similar exercise when I was building the bike earlier this, wondering whether to use a filter with or without an anti drain back valve. In the case of certain V-Twins though, it depended on whether I was using a scavenging oil pump or not....I eventually worked it out. Wrong filter in an S&S motor could kiss away 1650cc of crated motor.

[noone]

sure I have read in another oil post that ryco are substandard compared with nissan and some of the other aftermarket ones

try this thread for more info

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/go...=oil&st=640

its a long thread but interesting and relevant to the discussion here

I try to avoid them for both the Jeep and the 'Line just hear to many bad things over the years about em

from to many people

[DIOR 33]

Yeah thanks for the good info Bunny. I went through a similar exercise when I was building the bike earlier this, wondering whether to use a filter with or without an anti drain back valve. In the case of certain V-Twins though, it depended on whether I was using a scavenging oil pump or not....I eventually worked it out. Wrong filter in an S&S motor could kiss away 1650cc of crated motor.

thats right

[DIOR 33]

sure I have read in another oil post that ryco are substandard compared with nissan and some of the other aftermarket ones

try this thread for more info

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/go...=oil&st=640

its a long thread but interesting and relevant to the discussion here

I try to avoid them for both the Jeep and the 'Line just hear to many bad things over the years about em

from to many people

well i use ryco on my car and all my mates that have imports use them as well and i use ryco fuel filter but i use a 210 because its slightly bigger

[noone]

210 the fuel or oil filter?

[DIOR 33]

210 the fuel or oil filter?

fuel

[noone]

cheers

[Madaz]

well i just bought 5l of Nulon High Tech Fast Flowing 10w-40 from Holden Hill auto barn with there Nulon E20 oil additive

i was actually served by Flicks old CSA friend (blue turbo laser and Rx7) she says hello flick

i asked for a good price and she did great on the price i got $8 discount on my oil and filter combo

[vinnie32GTS4]

get motul everything.. autobarn stocks it and if u go to the autobarn on sir donald bradman drive the guy there is a rep for motul and is very helpful.