Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, now i have a new problem and will do my best to describe it. engine is an r32 rb20. under load, usually around 3-4000 rpm I get this high pitched whistle/noise. it starts off low pitched but rev it abit higher and it gets..higher pitched..yeah. cant seem to figure out what it is. fresh oil change, checked all the couplers for the front mount intercooler piping. checked as many places i could for some sort of leak that would give me an indication of why its doing this. also the exhaust sounds abit different like there is a leak somewhere, sounds more like an old truck now and every now and then when shifting or rpm drops i get a pop out of the exhaust, usually abit of fire. it tends to want to just die on me as well. starts fine but from time to time if i dont hit the accelerator pedal, the rpms will just drop until it dies. any ideas? here are a list of my mods incase something might be related. the engine has appx 60,000 miles on it(around 96,000 kms?)

ARP Head Studs,

GReddy 1.2mm Head Gasket,

GReddy Timing belt,

Fidanza adjustable cam gears,

Hybrid FMIC and piping,

Turbo XS BOV,

HKS pod filter,

3" exhaust with Fujitsubo NGK axle back

GTR fuel pump

Koyo radiator w/ dual 12" fans,

GReddy EManage,

GReddy Profec E-01

,GReddy Auto Timer,

HKS Hypermax D coilovers,

front camber plates,

Cusco front strut bar,

Cusco front tension rods,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197885-high-pitched-noise-under-load/
Share on other sites

My first thing i thought of was exhaust, as if you get a bit of air entering the ex, it can combine and you can get that pop from the unburnt fuel, could explain the whistle too as coz its on load it could be coming out from the manifold or somewhere. Oooh check that you have your O2 sensor in there, sounds silly, but i forgot to put mine in one time and the car ran like a bitch until wot and i had a serious noise/wistle. I just listened to the vid. Damn that is weird. Besides the sounds of tappets clacking away, it sounded like a turbo type sound, like proportional with the turbo, not engine revs(or am i mistaken) Thats where i'd check, turbo area...

lol, yeah the 02 sensor is in, cant say that ive made that mistake before. cant really pin point the area the noise comes from, will try some more today as well as check the turbo out. has no shaft play in it, i have checked that out, but ill check the gaskets and such today.

what i did was use a engine carbon cleaner that you can get from a subie dealer workshop for $15-20. when you start and rev the engine to clean it out, white smoke should come out of any area's in the engine bay that has a leak. smoke came out from my turbo side so i knew it was the gaskets.

on most nissans, the gaskets around the hot side become and issue.

Check these gaskets between:

engine and manifold.

manifold and turbo

turbo and dump pipe.

ALSO, you may find that you are missing some nuts or that they are loose.

check the nuts that hold all of the above together.

that subi upper engine cleaner stuff is good shit on the EJ motors..

probably have same effect on any motor.

farken stinks when coming out the exhaust though..

Edited by GTST

ok so finally got around to working on it. exhaust manifold gasket checked out, manifold to turbo gasket had crack in it, but that wasnt the issue. broken blades(see pics). usually id be upset about a broken turbo, but just using this as an excuse to put on the t3.

badturbo2.jpg

badturbo1.jpg

105_1660.jpg

105_1659.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...