Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it Hi-Cas or what? What does it do???

Also, what does the snow button do?

#1 changes front / rear wheel drive bias from around say 10:90 to 50:50 ratio

#2 locks off First gear, so standing starts are 2nd gear to minimise wheel slippage

don't forget to order a steady supply of clutch packs for the transfer case while you are at it :(

Wanna slide sideways like a hyperactive crab with down syndrome? Drop the front drive shaft. 4 bolts and you are away.

sorry 2 interupt guys >_<

just wondering in wat driving situations you would use the 4WD "S" button?

Everyday use or just certaini times :P

CHEERS

totally off topic .. but you started it haha

to be honest he already had that name when I liberated him from the cat haven !

places of virtually no traction, such as gravel and snow. The thing with the atessa system you have to remember, is that it was never designed for high loading situations like sand and very rough terrain. The system is a dead set beauty, don't get me wrong, and it saved my bacon a few times (on private roads of course >_< ) but it is only designed to transfer power under little to no torque loading situations, such as when the back wheels hit an ice patch.

There is a school of thought amogst some members that the torque split button can be used to aid in launches, but I don't personally agree with this, dueto the fact that it would only help if you were taking off in loose sand or ice or something.

My personal belief is that it would be used when you are taking off from the carpark of your favourite ski resort around Mt Fuji or similar, and if thats not enough, then you engage the "snow" button on the gearbox too.

it also depends on the type of torque split controller too...

the old rare HKS ones will give you full control over the ratio, however most of them allow you to change how much the ratio changes... ie, it will send more power to the front when it does notice slip at the rear, but the computer will still control when the power is sent there and not.

places of virtually no traction, such as gravel and snow. The thing with the atessa system you have to remember, is that it was never designed for high loading situations like sand and very rough terrain. The system is a dead set beauty, don't get me wrong, and it saved my bacon a few times (on private roads of course >_< ) but it is only designed to transfer power under little to no torque loading situations, such as when the back wheels hit an ice patch.

There is a school of thought amogst some members that the torque split button can be used to aid in launches, but I don't personally agree with this, dueto the fact that it would only help if you were taking off in loose sand or ice or something.

My personal belief is that it would be used when you are taking off from the carpark of your favourite ski resort around Mt Fuji or similar, and if thats not enough, then you engage the "snow" button on the gearbox too.

Not sure if I agree with the low torque thing.

ATTESA was originally designed for the Skyline GTR (R32 if I remember correctly, which was built primarily for racing in the GroupA racing series) and its designed for maximum traction at all times yet still retaining the feel of a RWD (and better fuel economy for ordinary driving).

It will be fine in the wagon unless you're pushing its limits every day or something extreme like that..but then no car will last long if thrashed to bits every day.

With the torque split button it will lock it to 50:50 but will still vary and put torque back towards the rear if it needs to so its not a fixed torque split. Dont use this mode all the time however, its only designed for a one-off here and there, like mentioned above - say if you're on an extra slippery surface or something...but for everyday driving leave it OFF. ATTESA will be good enough untouched most of the time anyway :P

As for launches, I believe the manual actually states that the torque split button will give you better launches. Also note that under full throttle in a straight line, it will most likely transfer torque to basically 50:50 anyway, so the difference is probably minimal anyway.

I've used the torque split button for really wet roads when its bucketting down with rain just for a bit of added confidence, but then provided you drive safely ATTESA is probably good enough in the default mode to handle these conditions well too.

You'll notice the difference with the 50:50 torque split when cornering, particularly at slow speeds (nissan calls it "tight cornering effect").

So in general, leave the 50:50 mode OFF and enjoy the awesome AWD system as it is :P

As for launches, I believe the manual actually states that the torque split button will give you better launches. Also note that under full throttle in a straight line, it will most likely transfer torque to basically 50:50 anyway, so the difference is probably minimal anyway.

no it wont actually...

say you go down the drags, and leave the torque split button alone..

from your launch the car will likely detect wheelspin off the line, and send more power up the front to counteract that, but then it will send all the power to the back wheels again for the rest of the 400 metres....

...that is unless you can get your rear wheels to light up at 100+km/h in a heavy wagon >_<

Hey Guys,

Sorry to just hijack this thread but a few things have been said that pricked my ears up,

1. The clutch packs in the transfer case, how would you tell if these were going?

2. I have a torque splitter but really don't use it as i don't know alot about it, when tight turning or doing 3 point turns etc i get the locked diff type shudder from the front and rear... and i hate it!! suggestions?

Not sure if I agree with the low torque thing.

ATTESA was originally designed for the Skyline GTR (R32 if I remember correctly, which was built primarily for racing in the GroupA racing series) and its designed for maximum traction at all times yet still retaining the feel of a RWD (and better fuel economy for ordinary driving).

It will be fine in the wagon unless you're pushing its limits every day or something extreme like that..but then no car will last long if thrashed to bits every day.

You can't really compare a GTR to a stagea though, and the R32 was a very different system - you could turn all drive off to the front wheels if you wanted for a start.

Never forget that a stagea is, at heart, a parts bin special NOT a GTR. The stagea 4WD system is from the GT4 and remember that Nissan never offered a GT4 with a turbo after the R32.

The S1 stagea is actually the only non neo RB25DET from factory with a 4WD system Nissan offered full stop, so the 4WD system is smaller, lighter and weaker than a GTR (not to mention the car is a crapload heavier). Just compare the front driveshaft difference alone to see what I mean.

From what I've been reading, the Nissan Pathfinder from 1999 onwards uses Atessa system for its 4WD drivetrain. Surely thats going to take quite a beating on the sand dunes and bush bashing and still be reliable.

From what I have read, its just a copy of the atessa system (based on g-force sensors rather than the traditional wheel speed sensors for the 4wd), so there wouldn't be any compatible hardware, and you can gaurentee it will be a VERY beefed up version if they think it will stay together.

I remember years ago, the only CVT transmissions being used were on mopeds because no one could make them strong enough to handle any more than 50cc's of power, and now the same drive style is available in quite a few cars, so its not unthinkable that it will one day the atessa system will be able to handle it, I just don't think that the stagea one will.

no it wont actually...

say you go down the drags, and leave the torque split button alone..

from your launch the car will likely detect wheelspin off the line, and send more power up the front to counteract that, but then it will send all the power to the back wheels again for the rest of the 400 metres....

...that is unless you can get your rear wheels to light up at 100+km/h in a heavy wagon ;)

yeah thats kind of what I meant. Was only referring to the "launch", sorry I didnt' make this clearer >_<

For what its worth, I've heard that the stagea is quicker down the 1/4 mile in AWD (more than likely with 's' button turned off) than in RWD with the front shaft out. Mostly due to the quicker launch I'd say. :)

You can't really compare a GTR to a stagea though, and the R32 was a very different system - you could turn all drive off to the front wheels if you wanted for a start.

Never forget that a stagea is, at heart, a parts bin special NOT a GTR. The stagea 4WD system is from the GT4 and remember that Nissan never offered a GT4 with a turbo after the R32.

The S1 stagea is actually the only non neo RB25DET from factory with a 4WD system Nissan offered full stop, so the 4WD system is smaller, lighter and weaker than a GTR (not to mention the car is a crapload heavier). Just compare the front driveshaft difference alone to see what I mean.

Are you sure of these details? I mean, do the lighter driveshafts make that much difference for us? What I'm interested in is if the transfer case/clutch packs are similar to whats used in the GTR etc.

I always thought the ATTESA system was pretty much the same across all cars it came in, just with minor changes / upgrades to the computer logic etc. to suit each application.

The stagea ATTESA definitely has g-force sensors as well, both latitudinal and longitudinal, as well as using the ABS sensors for all the wheels...

I'm not trying to disprove your theory or anything, just curious as to how much the AWD system will handle. I've always been of the belief that its made strong enough to outlast the car as it comes in stock form, or even if you increase the power a bit. Sure if you're doubling the car's power output there will be more strain on the drivetrain but the way most of us drive (bit of a spurt here and there but mostly quite cruisey) I wouldn't have thought there'd be any trouble.

I definitely understand the risks of leaving the 'S' button turned on all the time. The system wasn't designed for that kind of use. :)

Another question to add to the mix is if Autech upgraded the AWD system at all with the 260RS's? There's not so many differences between a (R33) GTR and one of those. :)

Edited by pixel8r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
    • Hi all. So one of my major issues at the moment is my rear turbo leaking oil on the exhaust (and the general area). I presumed it was the rock hard super old drain hose, which it was not. So now I am in the midst of removing the rear turbo to get access to the banjo bolt that goes into the turbo oil feed. As one of the previous owners accidentally? tore off the OEM oil feed hardline that reaches behind the turbo, they ran braided lines directly to the turbo, presumably PTFE. Now, regardless if the line has rubber or teflon inside, is it just generally a bad idea to do this? I imagine these lines get quite hot being between the engine, turbo core and exhaust manifold. I suppose it's not too far fetched to think the line may even have melted. I'd love to hear your opinions on this as as the replacement OEM hardline piece is 130 per unit. And cutting open the currently mounted line to see inside will mean I just have to get a replacement either way. So far I am hoping maybe the bolt just loosened or (god forbid) they forgot one of the crush washers.
×
×
  • Create New...