Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest NVDGTS4

Hey guys i've got myself an R33 GTS4. Afew weeks ago i got myself a 2.5" From the cat back with a Hotdog probably 16" long and my Magnaflow Twin tip muffler put onto it. It sounds freakin sweet as but not to loud. But when im driving fast acceleration around 2800rpm to 3800rpm i've got this "clicking/Whipper snipper" Rasping sound and it sounds like complete shit ! but after that rev range it sounds like a true RB. I've tried everything even fitting a different muffler but i cant get rid of it!! .. What have you guys got running that dont have the rasp? Oh by the way its Mendral Bend and the engine is S1 (139Kw) RB25DE

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197985-rasp/
Share on other sites

Hey,

if you have a quick look through most of the exhaust threads in the N/a section you will find that everyone has come to the conclusion that there is no way to get rid of the rasp between 3 and 4000 rpm or there abouts.

its got something to do witht he twin cam setup on the rb's

just ignore it or turn your stereo up :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197985-rasp/#findComment-3537592
Share on other sites

I KNEW IT WAS GOING TO COME IN HANDY! :)

Thanks eug!

i never notice anything strange on my car? lol

Early model Rb25de's came with a flap in the exhaust that was closed under cruising conditions and open when W.O.T.. this was done to stop the raspy-ness

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197985-rasp/#findComment-3539614
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...