Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I've been driving now for about 2 years and have learnt alot along the way. I still think i have alot to learn.

In particular i wanted to know about certain things that may be general knowledge to more experienced drivers such as;

1) How can i use road numbers to the best of my advantage?

-is there a code in assigning road numbers ie, East-westbounds rds vs North-southbounds roads?

-Particular numberings such as M1, A430 ...what do they mean?

2) Do you know of ways to better use a street directory? Certain overlooked symbols?

3) Parking tips?

-for example i learnt never to park at the last bay where your car becomes the 'corner' and there is a high chance of someone swiping you. Any similar tips?

4)Is there cheap short term parking in melbourne (melbourne central area)? is there a website that lists parking spots? This is mainly for weekend parking, i'm aware QV is all day weekend for $10, are there better options?

Look forward to hearing your thoughts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198055-general-road-knowledge/
Share on other sites

I think sense of direction is something you are either born with or have non at all. Buy a GPS for your car and that should help you. If you can remember images of places you are going etc you will find it easier, thats how i know where to go etc i can picture it all im my mind if i have been there before and usually only need to go somewhere once to know how to get there any other time but again thats something that you either can or cant do.

If you don't know where you are/are going, stick to main roads as long as possible (even if directions say it's quicker through the back streets). It's easy to miss turns when the streets don't quite match what's on the maps, but main roads tend to have more/bigger signs to make finding streets easy.

On road designations, the letter designates the type of road.

M = Motorway

F = Freeway (or possibly Federal Highway, I can't remember)

Then you have A, B, C (and possibly D) roads. From A-D the road's quality decreases. An "A" road would be your typical country highway (think of the highway from Geelong to Adelaide), probably with a 100km/hr speed limit.

A "B" road is a more winding road. Still well surfaced and probably reasonably wide, but not quite highway level. Great Ocean Road is a B road.

A "D" road would be a narrow laneway, probably one lane wide in both directions. You'd struggle to get two cars to pass each other on such a road. It might not even be sealed.

There should be official designations on how each road is ranked on VicRoads, but they tell you how wide and how "safe" the road is.

The number, I believe, is an arbitrary value used to designate that specific road. Its not tied to anything else.

  • 2 weeks later...

If you buy a street directory get a melways, ubd are the most useless piece of junk ever made.

But #1 get a gps, makes life a lot easier, take it from a truck driver who has had to use a street directory untill recently, but if you persist with the melways you too will be able to talk on the phone (handsfree of course) drive with one hand and hold the melways with the other.... aledgidly..........

If you buy a street directory get a melways, ubd are the most useless piece of junk ever made.

...

QUEENSLANDERS take note, the Brisway is FAR superiour to the ubd. People from melbourne know what they are talking about with that one.

Anyway, just go for random aimless drives. Go with some mates, you get to an intersection, first to say left/right/straight wins and thats where you drive. (have street directory handy for when the fuel light comes on tho). Just remember landmarks etc. Best way to learn the place is to get lost.

And I always park next to a pier or a wall. Means its only one side of the car some fool can open their door in to, not both.

Thanks for the tips!

With regards to getting a GPS system, from what i've seen with freinds using GPS, they're sometimes unreliable and fail to give directions at convenient times, also why spend $200+ when people have been driving fine in years past without the technology(Using GPS is abit soft imho if your not a courier/truckie).

yeh even if you get GPS, dont rely on it, make sure you carry a melway too. friends and i went on a random trip to sydney, and he was relying on his GPS, sure enough the thing just died and couldnt get it to work again. i dont know sydney as im a melbourne boy, but still knew where the arterial was to get us home. f*ck it was funny watchin my mates panic though, they just had no idea what to do lol

With regards to getting a GPS system, from what i've seen with freinds using GPS, they're sometimes unreliable and fail to give directions at convenient times

But if your no good a reading a melways then you will get in less shyte with a gps than you will trying to figure out where you are going with a map.

Just make sure you get a decent unit with up tp date maps and set it up right, i have found with tomtom that if you choose to go the most direct route its usually slower than if you choose to go the fastest.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...