Rb 26 Cefiro

[brada31ke70]

got the rb26 in the cefiro and went for a drive today. goes real good. extremely happy with the performance. still a few things to do exhaust, intercooler mounting, and bits and pieces, but atleast i can drive it. anyone know who does a good/cheep exhaust on the gold coast? brought it as a rear wheel drive half cut from brisbane motor imports they did very well with the service, even got some new turbos with steel wheels atfer it arrived with blown ones. was not a bad conversion every thing went to plan, spent about 30 hours on the wiring as i have used the standard computer and have connected all cefiro guages and rev counter. here is some photos.

Edited December 18, 2007 by brada31ke70

[adoboy666]

nice work mate

r u using the gtr gearbox as well?? was it hard with the tailshaft did u have to get one made up?

i bought an r32 manual gearbox from brisbane motor imports the other day for my manual conversion in my r32 hopefully it goes good

[brada31ke70]

nice work mate

r u using the gtr gearbox as well?? was it hard with the tailshaft did u have to get one made up?

i bought an r32 manual gearbox from brisbane motor imports the other day for my manual conversion in my r32 hopefully it goes good

[brada31ke70]

just using the r32 rb20 gear box that came with the motor, looks like it had been recoed and has no rattles or problems. the cefiro was origanally auto and i used the front part of the skyline drive shaft with the cefiro back part of the drive shaft. no welding and very cheep way to go. had to get mechanic to undo the big nut which holds the two parts of the drive shaft together. i have written up how to manual a cefiro on this forum some where, it will be exactly the same for your skyline.

[brada31ke70]

the cefiro currently has s15 lowered springs in the front and cut cefiro springs in the rear, real good fun in the wet with the extra power but would like it to handle alot better. what are your experences with different suspension set ups? are coil overs as good as every one says, should i save up for tein or get some cheaper korean jobbies? or can you get away with lowered springs and changing the shocks. would a front and rear sway bar make a good improvement. any information from your past experieces would be greatly appreciated. thanks

[daisu]

Thicker rear sway bar makes the IRS less independant hence more prone to oversteer, which is good if you intend to slide the car. Lowered springs and short stroke shocks are fine if they are matched properly to each other and the application. The benefit of coilovers is the ability to raise/lower the car, change the preload (depending on the coilover) and usually have adjustable camber tops/dampener settings.

I'd say save up for some decent coilovers they would probably be comparable in price to a decent set of shocks/springs.

[brada31ke70]

Thicker rear sway bar makes the IRS less independant hence more prone to oversteer, which is good if you intend to slide the car. Lowered springs and short stroke shocks are fine if they are matched properly to each other and the application. The benefit of coilovers is the ability to raise/lower the car, change the preload (depending on the coilover) and usually have adjustable camber tops/dampener settings.

I'd say save up for some decent coilovers they would probably be comparable in price to a decent set of shocks/springs.

thank you for that. i might invest a white line rear sway bar and save for some good coil overs, do you recomend changing the front one while i am there? are white line sway bars ok? thank you once again.

[daisu]

Yeah I think a few of the members on this board are running whiteline swaybars, not too sure about upgrading the front though unless you are looking at doing some circuit racing?

[anticeptik]

Sorry to jack your thread and be completly off topic but ive been contemplating the same conversion for a while in the back of my mind.

If you dont mind me asking how much aprox did it set you back to have the car running?

[jenkies]

a very large thumbs up! thats sweet congrats and i bet your damn proud of it!! i put a rb20det into ma vl wagon and i thought that was a head f*k... but fitting a rb26dett into anytihng would be a bit of a challenge! and i can certainly agree with u that wiring is a pain in the ass!!

u will enjoy every second driving that beast! once again TOP JOB!

jenkies

[Simon-S14]

looks sweet man, i give that RB20 box about 3 months before it blows

[kamakazi]

looks awesome man we are doing a vq30 conversion to my cef and a 2jz-gte conversion to another cef at the moment at my work. i will put up some pics when i get a chance

[dangerous_daveo]

Mate in regards to the exaust, one of the other RB26 ceffy dudes has at least stainless dumps/fronts, he is in Brissy, and I dont think he wants to use them. I'll let him know if you are still chasing down an exaust.

[brada31ke70]

thanks for all of the comments. i brought the down pipe off a mate who went single turbo on his gtr and got a second hand 3 inch exhaust off boost cruising, but thank you for the tip.

i am not mechanic but managed to do everything myself, i did pay for a guy to do the exhaust because the two systems did not line up. it cost me $4600 for the front cut, maybe $200 for fluids eg oil and anti freeze, about $500 to sort out the exhaust but that was for a whole system excluding dump pipes ( there is not too much room between the two turbos and i think the factory ones were ok. ) and that is about it. there really is no difference between doing a conversion with a rb20 or a rb26. i still need to get some sort of pod filter set up, none of the importers have any down on the gold coast, and i will get it dyno tuned as well. but that is it really for expenses. very happy with the way it goes and it is only running 8 pound, will probably not go for too much more to try and save the gear box.

[brada31ke70]

dont know if anyone really cares, but here is some information on how to adapt a hicas power steering pump to work on a system that has only turns the front wheels, if that makes sence. when i am modifying things on my car i like all the info i can get.

when putting the 26 in the cefiro i used the old rb20de non hicas power steering pump which didnt line up with the main pully, so every time i gave it a burst it would throw the belt, first i packed the pullly off the power steering sharft with some washers, still threw belts, next i swapped the pump with the hicas power steering pump and blocked the rear wheel fluid line with a bolt, didnt throw belts but when it was reving hard it would leak power steering fluid everywhere, and was hard to find where the fluid was coming from. i took the bolt out which blocked the rear fluild line and wrapped it with thread seal tape, better but still leaked. next i pulled the rear of the pump apart and pulled the fins off the sharft which spun in the housing, finally works a treat, no leaks and power steering works perfect. ah yes.

next, change the fuel pump and get it dyno tuned, then it is off to willow bank.

[huddy]

yep remove the rear blade/fin thingy and block it up...

OR

what i did was run another line off the rear into a power steering cooler and return back to reservoir... works a treat. no leaks.

[brada31ke70]

good thinking, feet stinking. i didnt think of the cooler idea.

[brada31ke70]

got the rb26 dyno tuned today, started with 234 rwhp and finished with 267 rwhp on 10 psi. very happy with that, have not really got up it yet as there was too much traffic around. off to the quarter mile next. any one with simalar specs know what i should expect?

[1400r]

bosses 26 ceffy just made 396rwkw

the other day 26 power yo

[grippy]

I have an RB26dett Ceffy, and hoping to get some advice from anyone else with one.

I have an issue with my steering rod as it comes throught the firewall, the angle of the rod is very sharp and it fouls on the side of the firewall hole, leaving wear on the steering rod.

The conversion was already done when I bought the car and I'm not sure if this is caused when the RB26 went in?

The steering rod first connection in the engine bay is to a solid alloy block spacer and then to a single uni joint that goes to the steering rack. It looks like there should be 2 uni joints to correct this bad angle I have coming out from the firewall??

Can anyone confirm if there is 1 or 2 uni joints for the steering in the engine bay?

I think that maybe one of the uni's was worn and it was just replaced with a solid block of alloy to save money.

Any help appreciated.

Rgds

Grippy