Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm heading up to qld to my parents for chrissy and my step brother (who is a very good welder) is gonna show me the basics of mig welding and possibly brush over tig welding but I guess stick to the introductory mig for now.

Any suggestions on practices or mini projects to do to better my skill once i learn?

In the end i'd like to be able to make some alright manifolds and IC piping etc. Was thinking a 13B turbo manifold might be a good one to start with once I have some skills as it only has two runners.

Probably just stick to using pre made bends as there are no places in canberra that I know of that will do cheap mandrel bends for you. I also plan on taking out the rear resinators and the mufflers in my exhaust and putting on some cheap mufflers with a bit more grunt just for something to do, needs to be a bit louder without that gay $50 cannon from supercheap sound. I have a v8 soarer so won't sound pov :domokun:

Thanks.

I'm just bringing one of my dads welders back down from qld to use.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198212-n00bie-projectspractice/
Share on other sites

if hes only beggining, no point doing thin stuff, its too hard to work with IMO, start off welding thick bits of scrap till you can get a consistant weld going, keeping your arv length and speed right, aswell as angles etc, just get a feel for the welder in general, mess around with volts and amps to see what each does, find something your happy with, then go thinner from there, and reduce your volts/amps to suit

as a general rule, more wire = bigger weld with more penetration

more voltage will flatted the weld out

Thanks guys. Will do. Have about 150kg of scrap L and square laying around my dads place when we stripped down the trailer and rebuilt most of it so that will be a good start I think.

Doing an exhaust would be pretty easy right? Its about the only think I could do on my car any time soon as its a stock v8. Either just take out the resinators and ad some good mufflers on the end or do a 2.5" cat back for it. Will just use mild steel for cheapness + ease as I'd have no idea how to weld stainless + kinda pointless for my ap. Will just spray the outside with that anti coroding stuff so it won't just rust away in 20mins, I suppose not much water if any will get on it while parked etc and when your driving they are hot so it will just sizzle off right?

For a 2.5" cat back is there an adapter I can buy to go from the standard like 1.75-2" whatever it is up to the 2.5? Would an exhaust shop be the best place to get the cat back pipes bent? Don't think they'd wanna help out that much as its not them doing it haha. I have access to a hoist for free as well so getting the measurements and installing is no issue.

Also what thickness mild steel pipe would you use for an exhaust? Would it have to be thicker then the stainless which is like 1.5mm?

Edited by Orphan
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...