Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas just wondered if anyone could help me... my skyline engine seems to be pulsing while on idle to the point of cutting out on me while im at traffic lights :S, im gonna take it into a mechanic to get it checked out does anyone know what i should look out for ? eg.. idle speed and fuel pump well thats all ive got so far... any extra things to look for much appreciated thanks :blink:

Just in addition it dose not pulse on cold start just seems to do it after a drive around abit so i guess after the engine heats up abit...

Edited by Spring&WateR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198335-r33-s2-gtst-troubles-please-help-d/
Share on other sites

Add some octane booster and fuel injector cleaner to check if that resolves the problem. Could be your AFM or o2 sensor aswell. Sounds weird that it is cutting only after being warmed up though. What fuel are you using and what is the RON?

Add some octane booster and fuel injector cleaner to check if that resolves the problem. Could be your AFM or o2 sensor aswell. Sounds weird that it is cutting only after being warmed up though. What fuel are you using and what is the RON?

Hmm im kinda a newb at car stuff but im learning haha D: ....

Well i got the car back from the mechanic saying he fixed it but like after i drove it around abit the next day it started happening agian T_T im gonna take it back to him, but ill try some of the stuff you mentioned first.

I pump premium unleaded and im going to try the fuel injector cleaner tomorrow morning, what is "RON", Im sorta working on the problem with my bro in in law... hell probly know thanks ill relay this info to him should help out ! Also my cars smoking abit when i accelerate what would i check for that? :rofl: ... My bro in law says its just running abit rich, does that mean i like need to get it tuned by someone ? Or is there some stuff we can do on our own first?

thanks...

Edited by Spring&WateR

Look mate, I don't think it's a petrol thing, but give it a go as you're learning (me too).

You should do a full petrol flush...

E.g. run 1 full tank of, say, premium 91 octane petrol, then run it to the very last drop (or lost to it when the meter shows E) - then fill it up with something like Shell's VPower 100% Octane race fuel... then see if the difference is huge? IF that, then upgrade your fuel, if no difference then it must be something else.

In my ace, for some reason my car runs it's best only on Shell's Vpower and and BP's Ultimate petrol.

Good luck - also , you car might need a full service.

All skylines run best on 98 octane fuel as thats what they are tuned for. Do not ever use less as it will only lead to problems.

do you have an aftermarket bov?

Pod filter?

Whats the cold idle at?

Whats the warm idle at?

Aftermarket computer or piggy back or stock ecu?

Could Also be a vacume leak.

Check all the hoses that run to the intake manifold for splits/come off,

There is one that always comes off on mine, its right at the back of the plemum/intake manifold its a small (tiny) hose that runs under the brake booster and comes off the nipple or splits. that causes my car to hunt around at idle.

BTW who knows what that hose is? its runs to a little electronics box (kinda looks like a map sensor).

Hope This helps.

i at times have the same problem as the thread starter....after a while driving i pull at the lights or break to a stop and the idle drops really low....not to cut out point tho....but yeah....i dunno either

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
    • For anyone that comes here looking for answers on what can go wrong with gts-4 to rb25detneo swap. The Gloria's awd sump is different and does not fit. The rb25neo from stagea are exactly the same sump bolt pattern and axel alignment. Castings numbers are different on Gloria's blocks and oilpans if they need to be identified.
×
×
  • Create New...