braided lines

[Roy]

So ben what is actually the problem again... are you sure your not expecting too much from std gear?

If the master cylinder has new seal, piston/bore honed etc etc, then it shoudl be as good as new...shouldnt it?

[benm]

Originally posted by Roy

are you sure your not expecting too much from std gear?

Nah im not expecting too much. Right now with a 'repaired' Master Cylinder when approaching lights if i pump the pedal softly twice it is then rock hard straight away and the brakes are absolutely fantastic, minimal pedal action required for maximum stopping its great (exactly what I expected with the brake gear I have, including braided lines).

If I don't pump the pedal twice before applying full pressure the pedal goes about 1/2 way down before good pressure is applied. After I have done 3-4 fairly hard stops (ie; 80km/h -> 30km/h) the pedal goes all the way to the floor before any pressure at all is applied (the pedal is still firm but not until its alllll the way to the floor).

If the master cylinder has new seal, piston/bore honed etc etc, then it shoudl be as good as new...shouldnt it?

Well thats exactly what I thought too but obviously thats not how it works. I'm very tempted to take the car to the place where I purchased the DBA4000 Rotors from just to explain my situation and get a 2nd opinion. (My contact their is actually a customer of the company I work for so he treats me right and I treat him right ). With the amount of money I have spent on this setup im certainly not happy with the performance yet.

[Roy]

Do you have any friends with an R33, do their cars stop the same

Id offer you a go in my car, im only at Windsor, but its an R32. Still i think you and i have effectively the same setup now.

R33 & R32 use the same diam pistons for front and rear calipers, they have the same diam rear rotor, but the R32 uses a 25.4mm vs R33 23.8 piston in the master cylinder

... and we both have aftermarket front rotors... so perhaps we have more in common then youd first think.

Time for a 2nd opinion

[JimX]

My R33 doesn't need the pedal pumped to bring pressure back into the brake line. There is definitely something wrong with Ben's.

[Roy]

There is a place called Penrith Brake and clutch or similar, might be worthwhile paying them a visit.

[benm]

Yeah they are about 1km around the corner. Had a friend that went there at the beginning of the year and they didnt fix something correctly and well that ended with my mates Dato 1600's rear wheel falling off at 60km/h ripped the rear guard off and destroying his suspension (that was a nite i'll never forget, especially when at 2am in the morning no tilt trays or tow trucks want to help out) so i've sorta kept away from that place.

Pink slip today then maybe tomorrow arvo i'll get a 2nd opinion and then either order the genuine nissan master cylinder from japan or... do what the 2nd opinion person says.

[JimX]

Ben, it's possible that the master cylinder needs bleeding again. Apparently they are a real bitch to get all of the air out of, unlike the brake lines which is quite easy. Maybe give that another few goes before you start replacing it.

I'm just thinking that if there was a fault in there it should make your brakes crap all the time, not just before you pump them up a bit. But I'm no expert, just taking a stab.

[benm]

Re-bleeding the master cylinder I can use the current brake fluid right ? (its only 3 days old).

Edit: I've used 3 bottles of brake fluid this year

[JimX]

If your recycling bottle and bleeder tube are clean then I don't see why not. I guess they don't have to be surgically clean, just as clean or cleaner than the underside of your master cylinder cap

I would buy another bottle to have on hand anyway just in case you lose some fluid or it needs topping up again. But don't break the seal on it until you actually need it (coz you'll have to throw the excess out anyway once it's opened).

[benm]

Well I'll be getting either RaceBrakes or another shop to do this.

[rob9246]

i havent read the whole thread but i got a set made up by a hose and fittings specialise(enzed) for about $180 the whole set

Got some rubber hose put over the top of them so they look stock too

rob

[JimX]

Is that ADR approved?

[rob9246]

nope

but theyre not as picky to look. esp when covered with rubber hose so they look stock

[R31Nismoid]

looking stock and being ADR legal are different man.

i for one would stick to adr stuff. laws are there for a reason and brakes are probably one of the most important things

i've got dot3 lines ATM... that's what the japs did in Japan, and even race brakes here in Melb said it was a very odd, yet interesting design... backyard Jap workshops! lol!

anywas, take it to race brakes, you know it'll get done right the first time even if you spend a few extra bob.

[JimX]

I think it only costs about $50 to get lines approved, but I don't know if it has to be done by the manufacturer or if any Joe Blow can come in off the street and get it done. You might need to be the manufacturer and buy an expensive licence before you can do the $50 testing.

[rob9246]

dude braided lines are going to take a shitload more pressure than is required of them. laws are there not to stop you making braided lines, but to stop you making non approved lines. eg to stop fools making crap quality hoses out of poor quality rubber or similar.

jap tyres arnt legal when they come in on your car, becuse theyre not approved. bridgestone etc.. still not dot/adr

the markup is huge from brake shops, depends how much your willing to pay i suppose. i dont think brake shops can make adr approved ones can they? i thought goodrich were the only company that make them

rob

[R31Nismoid]

yeah they can... we already established that earlier on in this thread..

race brakes can do a legal braided line for street use/registration/legally

[benm]

RaceBrakes use Goodridge Braided Lines.

Cost me 4x $90 just for the front lines + 2x $30 for the GTR T-Piece.

[benm]

Originally posted by JimX

it's possible that the master cylinder needs bleeding again

Just went spoke to my "Better Brakes" down at the local work shop during my lunch break.... Told him my recent upgrades and the problem im experiencing and he suggested a getting my Master Cylinder rebuilt with a "stainless steel sleeve".

RaceBrakes only replaced the seals etc but did not touch the Cylinder shaft (??) afaik. BB explained that the amount of pressure in the cylinder shaft can be well over 250 bar and with all the heat and pressure i've generated it could have damaged this.

He said their is absolutely no need to get a brand new Master as all that can be damaged is this shaft. To re-sleeve the shaft they drill it out and then fit it with a stainless steel shaft and make it all perfectly smooth again. He said the aluminium can flex and bow and allow pressure past where the stainless steal can't.

To do this means 3 days off the road (master gets sent into the city to be done) and about ~$260. (compared with ~$500ish for a brand new genuine nissan master cylinder).

...the plot thickens...

[rob9246]

find out how much a whole replacement is.

i alsmot got my clutch master resleved and sealed. 90 kit plus labour

bought a protex brand replacement for $55 trade instead.

rob