Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

yesterday arvo changed from my street tyres to my semis for Oran Park today.

So get up early this morning and off I go...not.

At first sounded like I was lazy and didnt do the wheel up tight, sounded like a clunk/metal on metal noise each few meters. (all nuts were on tight and everything)

Came back home as I didnt want to drive down 60kms to OP and have anything happen on the motorway.

jacked car up, free spun the wheels, no noise.

then took the right wheel off, couldnt see anything under there that looked broken.

put wheel back on, all tight and everything, went to park in garage, 1st gear - clunkity bang!

so its when wheel is on, under load. nothing from left hand side.

Any ideas?

I am hopeless at this stuff!!

Cheers,

Chris

Is the wheel clearing the caliper properly? Maybe youve tightened the wheel up a bit skewy and its collecting the caliper on the way through?

Checked the suspension arms? Maybe you've got a busted bush causing the wheel to sit weird...

Checked wheel to shock clearance/rubbing?

Also if you've got a hicas lock bar make sure its still tight. Grab the hicas arm and wiggle it to check for play

Heya Jon!

Yeah clears caliper no worries!

havent had a close inspection at the arms

wheel to shock clearance...dont understand!

lock bar - ah cool, will check that also!

well,

changed my rears back to my street tyre rims/wheels and so far no noise...

looking at the rims

(33GTSt rims with semis - 32 GTSt rims street rubber)

the 33 rim that was rear right seems to have a few og the weights missing from the balancing, would this have caused it?

rim looks healthy...just missing a few weights compared to the others...

thoughtS?

The missing weights won't cause problems at that sort of speed, and with a stock rim i cant see the issue being related to the wheel hitting anything (though it should be pretty obvious if you look inside the wheel well and see any shiny bits)

But, from your description it sounds like it happens once with each wheel rotation so the weights are a possibility of hitting something as the wheel turns.....

Swap the front semi to the rear and see what it does. check the strut for any marks where the weights or something could have hit the lower spring seat (i've had that problem before) also check the rotors and pads just in case something has gotten stuck in there and is destroying your brakes

yeah had Dave (T04GTAAAH) look at it, we changed wheels agai,n and no noise.

although now when I engage reverse, and goto roll back, theres a "clinky" noise. happens everyime for reverse, sounds like Im running over and breaking something on the ground.

Im starting to wonder, could my diff be giving up on me? I know it has been "open wheeling" on the track (bathurst hillclimb did it a fair bit)

Time for a new diff me thinks anyway :thumbsup:

i was going to suggest that the axle/diff teeth could be missing a couple teeth, but then u said it went away with the std tyre's on. maybe the semi is binding up and producing the noise easier? whereas the street tyre has less grip... i duno its a tough one without hearing it.

well,

each time today that noise as once Ive put it in reverse to letting clutch out to roll back, seems to get louder or its just me being a paranoid barstard!! :(

:)

well if its in the driveline....

engine mount

gearbox mount

something dead in the box (but if you can get all the gears probably not)

tailshaft centre bearing

tailshaft uni

diff backlash (not broken teeth if it was it would clunk much more often)

badly worn cvs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah yes but were you responsible? In the time I've had it (just before Christmas) I spun off the track twice and drove into things twice, so four separate incidents.. in two outings. Luckily I have a full OEM GTR front end to put on which is hopefully not a precursor for further, future, more expensive mistakes to come. It is some consolation that anyone who would want to buy my Altia bar would have to paint it anyway, the guards, too. (if they can get over the asymmetry). Hopefully over the weekend I will disassemble and see how badly things are bent. From what it looks like, the headlight has actually just been pushed back and bent the headlight support (which .. somehow... crushed the guard in). I guess the headlight plastic is strong stuff.
    • These things happen And I believe "we, the people, who modify stuff, and actually use it, cannot have nice things" It's just a shame that it happened so soon after paint  I still win the award for quickly destroying newly painted panels I think, as my car came back from the paint shop all nice and shiny, until about 4 hours later when the boot was destroyed by a wayward locker that was blown around by the wind.... What doesn't kill you makes you stronger, and poorer.....dooh
    • This. And also, the rotor thickness is constrained by the calipers. Cannot be much thicker, if at all. Cannot be much thinner, if at all. New rotors are....fairly cheap. Turbo calipers can still be picked up for sensible money. Arguably, the best thing is to get R32 calipers and put them on mount spacers on 324mm discs. That's about the cheapest and easiest way to get quite large brakes that are essentially bolt on. And that's despite maintaining for years that the R32 calipers are not the best choice because they seem to be more flexy and creaky than the others. If you were prepared to put up with nasty little NA sliding calipers, these will still seem like Brembos by comparison.
    • A quick Google said 297mm..
    • Why would you not fit the biggest possible brakes?
×
×
  • Create New...