Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have been on the receiving end of a Bee*R limiter in the workshop.. 26 in a gts4, was standing on the back left of the car talking to someone when I heard the engine start to rev.. glanced at the exhaust pipe then BANG BANG BANG it hit the Bee*R limiter.. my left ear was ringing for several hours after :)

haha sorry bubba should have warned u b4 we did it

  • 4 weeks later...

hmmm i got a r32 gtst stock turbo was gonna buy the bee*r rev limiter lucky i read this thread... so whats the best way to get the backfire/flames? would it be for me to get a PFC and then get it tuned to do it? is it hard to revert it back to normal?

i got a few noobs questions lol,

my car frequently pops between gear changes and when decelerating, i got a atmo bov too, does that mean flames coming out every time it pops? ;) coz as u can guess i cant see my exhaust while im driving lol

and popping a lot doesnt mean misfire right...??

i got a few noobs questions lol,

my car frequently pops between gear changes and when decelerating, i got a atmo bov too, does that mean flames coming out every time it pops? :D coz as u can guess i cant see my exhaust while im driving lol

and popping a lot doesnt mean misfire right...??

I was told it isn't flames or missfire its just excess fuel being dumped in the exhaust and hence the pops. correct me if i'm wrong though.

i used to get heaps of pops on decel with the bov open about 30% but as soon as i got a pfc in it and tuned it stopped straight away or if i turned it to fully plumback.

Edited by Onthehunt

Apparently I get flames when it's more of a dull "whop" rather than the big "bangs", hence my theory is thus:

A BANG is the unburnt fuel igniting at the front of the exhaust and the flame/whop is the unburnt fuel making its' way to the muffler before it ignites.

</end-theory>

  • 3 weeks later...

the flaim throwing kits that work with a switch and cupple of sparks in the exohst throw nice flaims for a long time without too much noise WOOOSH sound n they usualy throw flaims out far too.. iv installed one on a friends WRX and it looked mad how ever it did kill his starter motor with time..

Bee R will reduce the life of your turbo so its not realy worth that lil bangs that it gives out. or use a computer that has anti lag.

imho if you got no cat usualy ull get a lil bang anyways when u back off, no need for pushing it n runing nice parts n paint..

Edited by drmafia

U want flames..??? get a Flame Thrower.. EZYYYY but i think they r Gay.. I rather c someon driving hard n flames come cuz of Pure Power...

Enuff Said hehe :-)

Boooyaaaahhh Peace

-SeS

Edited by Black_CSR
  • 1 month later...

i get popping sound too from my exhaust ... its just a simple lousy twin pipe .. plus im driving a non turbo skyline .. could it be the fuel pump or something which is not working properly .. i really dont expect a very stock non turbo skyline to make popping sounds ..

Flames and popping sounds and extremely powerful cars don't always go hand in hand. If your NA is running a bit rich, you will have excess fuel in the exhaust. Excess fuel + hot exhaust = potential for flamage :D

Usually the cat will catch most of the unburnt fuel, but if there is no cat, no reason why you won't get flames for the reasons above. Also, popping sound is normally infront of the cat, ie no flames. Flames are usually more of a whooshing sound :thumbsup:

  • 1 month later...

yeah mine pops massive flames over 4000-4500rpm changes... the slower i change gear the bigger the flame lol... i think the car is just running rich cause i have a 3" cat ive got some nice vidz of it, post up when i can.

i knew mine blue flames when changing gear but i went on the performance car cruse on Friday night and some of the guys (Ivan and friends) said it was blowing a 2 Foot flame continuously when i opened it up.

3.5"exhaust

11Psi

120mm THICK! drag front mount

spitfire coilpacks

iridum plugs

= big ass flames when hammering and very hot rear bumper!

might have something to do with the 10-1 a/f ratio. lol

cheers!

hey all how can u get ur car to throw flames from the exhaust? yesterday mournin i was drivin up the freeway and a white r33 with number plates strich9 went past and when changed gear threw out a decent flame from the exhuast, how can u get your car to do it or is it something that just happens with the unburnt fuel when u back off?

Flame thrower kit!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...