Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My 2way is noisy as hell, mostly when it's cold - it either skips or the clutches chatter away. Once it's nice and warm it's barely noticeable.. might try some new oil..

Oh and it is a bit clunky but I was warned of that.. button clutch + 2way = lots of fun :devil:

Edited by bubba

yeah there is nothing intrinsic about a mechanical diff (1, 1.5 or 2 way) that makes it noisey. Its the "tightness" of the mechanical diff that makes the difference, and the GTR one is pretty loose from the factory. But you can tighten or loosen any mechanical diff.

the only thing that wears out in a viscous diff is the viscous coupling. which is why they start single spinning.

i got a two way n makes a loud chatter at low speeds n skips at higher speeds and holds perfectly wen driftin uphill or track lol

but yeh 2 ways make noise no matter wat but the best thing is they are LEGAL lol

SLY-dN, how are 2-ways legal? I had my viscous diff shimmed up in an attempt to find a compromise between stock and my fully clunky 2way cusco, but the shimmed stocky came back behaving EXACTLY like the cusco 2-way i had in it before!

Anyway, whilst going for inspection they noticed it skipping as the car was manouvered to the pits, and would not clear defect until it was returned stock.

As for noisiness, i think mine must be due to the alloy subframe collars. The clunking was so harsh, as someone mentioned, you have to explain to everyone who rides in the car that its "normal", "no its not broken its meant to be like that"!

Im looking for a diff now. thinking the OS superlock 1.5way. If its clunky ill throw some new stock rubber subframe bushes in. The idea of changing the bushes was to get rid of axle tramp, but with traction it still tramps anyway even with the alloy collars.

Whilst we're here, anyone like to kindly refresh the principle between 1.5 and 2 ways and the pro's cons?

thanks

its not the number of ways that make it "clunk", its the tightness of the diff.

1 way only locks on acceleration, 2 way lock on acceleration and braking, 1.5 way locks on acceleration and a little on braking. How quickly it locks (eg under brakes) is controlled by the ramps in the dif centre. 1 way looks like "|/", 2 way looks like "\/" 1.5 way is in between. In any case they will only lock when there is a change in force ie if you are just coasting no mechanical diff will clunk.

so....if you don't want to get noticed, especially with a 1 way diff, just don't put any power in as you turn, just coast around.

pros and cons....well 1 way is perfect, 2 way have become "trendy" thru fil sic drifters with the theory that the locked diff under brakes on entry make it more predictable. I don't drift so I don't know but that doesn't make sense to me a 1 way is more predictable under brakes because its not locking/unlocking as you have more or less braking.

also a tight diff will increase your understeer out of corners because the inside wheel is forced to turn at the same speed as outside wheel - this makes the car go straight on. Especially bad in a gtr with a tight front diff as well. tight 2 way diff will also increase understeer at initial turn in to the corner

i haven't read the replies, but i know a 32 GT-R with standard LSD oil in it's OEM mechanical 1.5-way diff is fine (but veerrry tail-happy in the wet), but once you change to something like the pink Redline LSD oil, it will start to bite like a mofo in anything resembling low to moderate speed corners

Anyway, whilst going for inspection they noticed it skipping as the car was manouvered to the pits, and would not clear defect until it was returned stock.

No fun -- could have said your mechanic put the wrong oil in it! I had lightweight shockproof in (communication breakdown) and the diff was so tight the car would actually refuse to move on full lock at low speeds!

I got to agree with the fellas saying the mech diffs with alloly subframe bushes are a bit much for the street. I haven't known any different, but some days especially city driving in traffic its just too much. I want to park it and walk home.

That and I think mine being old, 1 piece tailshaft, big clutch, stiffly sprung just adds to the pain, every little thing just gets transfered. Also I reallly dont like the 2way bit in the wet. I think 1.5 is the good compromise. Just dont have too soild rear end. They will clunk, and they will skip. Thats how they work, the clunk is it locking. The locking makes it skip.

what do you guys think of putting some brand new stock OEM subframe bushes in, instead of even pineapples?

Aim is to get rid of the harsh clunking from the diff. Has anyone gone from stock to pineapples and noticed whether pineapples make it noticably louder clunk?

I put the alloy ones in as i thought theyd be even more effective than pineapples, which they would have to be in terms of reducing subframe movement, but honestly i dont think i couldve picked the difference seat of pants once they were changed, which is why im thinking just put stock ones in.

what do you guys think of putting some brand new stock OEM subframe bushes in, instead of even pineapples?

That's a LOT easier said than done! U've gotta melt out what's left of the squashed oem bushes, press the surrounding 'ring' out and get a new set pressed in. If u'r gonna do all that, I'd put a set of noltec subframe bushes in (not just pineapples). The noltecs will be noisier than stock tho, but probably not as loud as with pineapples.

haha yeh everyone who gets in my skyline and hasnt been in a car with a 2way before thinks my car is f**ked and gonna fall apart, but yeh mine is clunky n shuddery when making tight turns, all good fun tho

I have a 2 way nismo sss in my car and got it new.

it's in an R32 gtst with a button clutch, alloy cradle bushes and rb30det torque. it clunks like a bitch accelerating and decelerating in corners. I have tried all types of fluid and now am using syntrax.

it really is too much for the street i hate driving it when cops are around. i am going to take out the alloy bushes and see if it is any better.

I lived with it in Canberra for almost a year no probs, but in Melbourne traffic it is just too much.

do not put a 2 way in a daily driven car. I am going to pull mine out when i can be arsed and set it to 1.5 way and with less preload.

I have found friction modifier also helps to a certain extent.

mine seems to clunk less when it is cold. once it warms up it clunks like a cut bastard.

having said all this when you are actually driving the car it is a pleasure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...