Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine actually clunks and shakes the car more when cold but when it's warmed up it tends to just slip the clutches.

It is a little much for the streets and I gotta be careful around cops but pfft, I've had my cup of concrete for the day and love it ;)

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mine seems to clunk less when it is cold. once it warms up it clunks like a cut bastard.

yes my cusco 2way was like that too, just a dull thud whilst cold, but after some driving, damn nasty shuddering clunks!! I ran RE55's before too, so im sure that made it even worse!

will update once the OS superlock is in. Its back ordered till end of the month tho...

i added 100ml of penrite friction modifier (lsd additive) to my diff last night after thinking a bit more about it. this was added to the castrol synthetic traxsomthingor other that everyone is using. the stuff designed for the jag with the ford friction modifier in there already.

now it is a bit smoother

Nick I can't keep up with you. You're in Melbourne now?!

For everyone reading this thread. The bushes you use will make bugger all difference. The clear answer for those who want the performance without the hassle is to do what I did. R32 GTR diff. I had a Nismo in there before and yes sometimes I loved the clunks and groans and skips and when women pushing strollers stared at me I wanted to yell out "Yes I am the f**king devil. Look away before I burn your eyes bitch." but as mentioned by others here, some days it just gets tiring.

I loved the way the Nismo locked up on the track but day to day I'm much happier with the GTR diff. I may even get it shimmed up a little one day. Flirt with the wild syde again. :P

  • 4 weeks later...

I assume the people who are experiencing noises and clunks didnt bed in their diffs?

You have to drive in a figure 8 pattern for about 20-30 mins for the plates to seat properly.This should lessen the noise,also a good LSD oil helps too.

Nick I can't keep up with you. You're in Melbourne now?!

For everyone reading this thread. The bushes you use will make bugger all difference. The clear answer for those who want the performance without the hassle is to do what I did. R32 GTR diff. I had a Nismo in there before and yes sometimes I loved the clunks and groans and skips and when women pushing strollers stared at me I wanted to yell out "Yes I am the f**king devil. Look away before I burn your eyes bitch." but as mentioned by others here, some days it just gets tiring.

I loved the way the Nismo locked up on the track but day to day I'm much happier with the GTR diff. I may even get it shimmed up a little one day. Flirt with the wild syde again. :banana:

what's involved in getting the GTR diff in there... did you have to change the whole cradle etc?

Took my nan to look at some shop in our local shoppn centre 2 days ago in my car (2-way diff) & she thought the rear of my car was fallling apart!

lol i love it the reactions you get are funny, ive been in maccas drive through before when a guy at the drive-thru counter says as im movin forward turning 90 degrees to the next window, ''Dude i think your diff is broken or somethin is wrong back there'' lol you get it all the time

I assume the people who are experiencing noises and clunks didnt bed in their diffs?

You have to drive in a figure 8 pattern for about 20-30 mins for the plates to seat properly.This should lessen the noise,also a good LSD oil helps too.

I bedded my diff in (figure8's in the carpark next to the workshop - yes, people were looking at me funny :P) and I have have clunks/chattering. Still running the Nismo oil that came with it, am going to change the oil on Sunday when the 25 box goes in.

Try some new oil first bro, I put ls90 in on the weekend and it's gotten rid of pretty much all the clunks etc.

It used to be an absolute dog first thing in the morning that it would shake the car, now it's barely noticable, can still hear the clutches chattering but it barely shakes the car in the morning and after driving for a while it doesn't do it at all.

I went for a test drive in a r34 today and the diff was jumping at low speeds, the dealer said he can take it to a diff shop and get it loosened so it won't do it anymore, i'll go back there during the week and find out if its true.

Does the diff jumping at low speeds wreck it at all or stress out any other parts?

yeah it will hurt the rear suspension a bit over the long term, its not great for it. If you don't want the tight diff they may be able to reshim it, or you could swap it for a stock one.

what's involved in getting the GTR diff in there... did you have to change the whole cradle etc?

You dont need to change the rear craddle.

Basicly the R200 GTR diff bolts into the exact same position that the original diff uses. Before fitting the GTR diff you need to remove the tailshaft flange from both diffs and swap them over. (GTR uses a 6 or 8 bolt from memory mounting flange and the GTS-t uses a normal 4 bolt flange.)

You need to use the GTR drive shafts and the outter hubs so the Axle spline sizes are right. The hubs bolt straight on and the original handbrake drums etc can be used no problems. The shafts are the right length and fit perfectly.

Ive got aftermarket diffs front and rear in my GTR there is no way I could drive it everyday. Turn to tightly and the whole car binds up and comes to a stop at low speeds.

Edited by Risking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....馃ぃ) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
    • Swap the injectors around and see what happens. If the misfire follows the injectors then that's a signal, if it doesn't it's probably not the injectors.
    • R33 with RB26 seems to go off of learned voltage for idle. Seemed like whatever the baseline voltage was once ECU first gains power will be the idle voltage. With ignition on unplug/replugging the TPS would relearn the idle TPS voltage.
    • Have you confirmed the 2 pin coolant temp sensor on the motor is working properly? I've had a very similar issue when I forgot to plug mine back in many years ago.
    • Ok interesting i guess ill wait till using a manual gauge before making assumptions.
  • Create New...