Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey There,

Got my new engine put in this week, and after a bit of driving around etc i've noticed that sometimes when the revs are low and building up to boost

at about 2500rpm the car stutters a bit and feels like its holding back, then once it gets past there it boogies.

Now, i had a major issue with one of the cams f**king up so one of my old cams was used in the motor as the other was broken, now if the cams were say to be different would this cause the issue? The cams supposably on the new engine were NA ones but im unsure of this as a fact.

The car doesnt really pull hard on 14psi as it used to, it used to throw you back in your seat now the car just seems to pull along the revs?

Also thinking Injectors or fuel pump?

Help! I wanna get this fixed!

Trent

oh ok sorry - so the engine was just put back in the car?

id say something is loose, like a hose clamp, intercooler pipe work, the air vac lines for the actuator etc - something along those lines?

Well its not the gap on the plugs

After a fair bit of reading ive come to the conclusion that its the fuel pump not sending enough to the engine, probably causing it to lean out. The car runs fine when cold but thats when its running rich but as soon as it settles its stuffed.

"Many of you with S13s have probably experienced hesitation on boost which can start to happen when the standard fuel pump is getting old."

I believe thats what my problem is.

Now im estimating that its dangerous to drive the car whilst in this state, i.e fuel pump could break down, or could lean the engine out.

Would i be right saying that?

it will be dangerous for you to give the motor any reason to demand more fuel yes.. like cracked piston spec. putting around not so much the best thing for you to do man is take it to a dyno and get your air/fuel checked out they will be able to tell u if it is leaning out or not, if so extreemly likely tis the fuel pump

what gap and how much boost are you running? I was running 14 psi and I had a stutter even after I put in a new 040 pump and pulled the gap from 1.1 to .8 and it stopped it

Edited by BANGN
  • 2 weeks later...

Car was datalogged today, we found that the timing was out. We also adjusted the teeth so that it was sitting perfectly.

We also changed over to a working CAS which still didnt fix the problem, the timing was jumping around from sitting on 15 to 7/8 up and down. Also tried a few diff coilpacks but we are unsure if they are working correctly.

I'm waiting on my walbro replacement to come back then ill be installing that into the tank see if that fixes the issue, other than that its coil packs/injectors we are thinking.

Anyone able to add some to the situation?

Also, if somone could be nice enuff who lives in the melbournes west to let me borrow there coilpacks for 2 minutes to see if the car runs any better would be appreciated.

For a 180sx SR20 Red Top

Anyone who can help either post or pm me please!

My car does the same sometimes, most likely cause would be either fuel pump or injectors. i have a power fc and when it happens i look at the inj duty and its 100% . It never used to it when i had 550cc in there. Two ways to fix it....

1. Bigger fuel pump, Fuel reg and bigger Injectors and tune.. or

2. Turn the boost down.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My plan is to go the pink option. But still add the 4th fitting near the oil cap and just cap it off for now.  That way I can add 2 extra to the sump and have 4 dedicated breathers/drains if I ever remove the sump for any reason. 
    • Oh, yeah, look - here's the thing. You always replace the tensioner when you're going in there to replace a belt....under normal circumstances. You want to make sure it is good and safe, and that you don't create a reason to take the front of the bloody motor apart again. But in this case, OP is replacing a belt that has aged out on time, not usage. The belt is a million miles away from aging out on usage. The belt gets a time "limit" merely because it is made of rubber and can degrade naturally. The tensioner? Not so much. I reckon it could last forever on the current usage pattern. So I reckon if the thing is going to continue to get used at the same rate, replacing the tensioner is somewhat gratuitous. Would I replace it if I was doing it on my car right now? Hell yes. Because my car does 10-20 thousand kays a year. So it's all going to be the same thrashedness. Would I YOLO it on OP's car. More than likely.
    • I dunno. I think any one of those from each side to sump is probably enough. Remember - this is about creating a path for gas flow up from the sump to the cam covers. That gas flow then has to leave via the lines to the catch can. There's probably little point in providing 100% more capacity from sump up to covers cf. what you have from there to the catch can. Put in the 3 convenient ones? Any which way that you see fit. That'd be my thoughts.
    • Getting holes drilled into to cam covers and AN10 fitting welded on. My sump has 2x AN10 fittings on it already. These are the options I have come up with that can be done without needing to remove the sump to add more fittings. In all options front of passenger side cover connects to VCT head drain bung (i know this isn't the best spot but my feeling is it must do something). Option 1 (pink). The back of each cam covers gets its own line to sump. Option 2 (blue). The back of each cam covers are linked and share a line to sump. The front of drivers side gets its own line. Option 3 (Black). Drivers side are Tee'd together and share a line to the sump. Passenger side rear gets its one line to the sump.
    • I'd be surprised if Nissan doesn't mention it in the manual as it seems unlikely that a tensioner is going to last 200,000km.
×
×
  • Create New...