Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, i just finished putting a new head gasket on my RB25 and have run into a bitch of a problem.

Ill just explain what i have done so we're all on the same wavelength

As i was bolting the exhaust cam back into place i found that one of the caps/bridges has the bolt locked in it some how. Its the E7 cap which is the very back one on the exhaust side. I have tried EVERYTHING to get the f**ker out with no luck, ive tried WD40, silicone spray, that freeze spray stuff and no luck. Then i tried putting it in a vice and tapping the bolt out. (by this stage i was pissed off and not thinking straight) By doing this it has scored the edge of the cap and is now un-usable.

My question is, i have heard that each cap HAS to go back in the same spot in the same direction as they kinda bed in with the cam and if put back on incorrectly can seize the cam. What can i do? can i just buy one off another RB25 and use that?

Please help, this is the only thing preventing me from getting the motor in the car and running!!! . . . until i run into more problems of course :S

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199056-cam-bridgescaps-stuffed/
Share on other sites

Post a pic of the cap mate, how bad is it? You may be able to just file the burr off.

You are correct in saying that the caps need to go on in the exact spot - that is the exact position as to where it was machined, and to maintain the front marks and/or keep the numbers facing the same way as the front cap. Have seen way too many people get it wrong and chew out there cams and caps and spreading crap through out the engine.

worse case it can be welded and line bored, i was building and engine for a mate and his disintegrating big end bearing destroyed most of the cam and journal on one side of the sr head and i got it fixed... anything is possible.

Hold the cap in a vice with soft jaws, heat the cap up and unwind + tap the bolt using plenty of lube.

Carefully deburr it and give the bearing surface a LIGHT rub with some wet/dry and crc.

Line boring these heads is costly, (im an engine Recoér) Worst case scenario is get another cap (i have some spare) and then polish/sand the bearing surface until the cam spins - then sand down the parting face of the cap until there is around .0012" -.002" clearence. Have done it many times. Just be carefull!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
×
×
  • Create New...