Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

i have a leaking return hose on my power steering reservior so im going to need to remove all the fluid to chuck in a new one. My only problem is i have no idea how to drain / refill the power steering system and get rid of any air. Everything that comes up on a search has just said remove fluid in reservior with a syringe and then top up... but i need to fully empty my system. Surely it cant be that hard but neither the r33 engine manual or handbook that came with the car tells you anything useful.

help would be much appreciated

thanks

Camden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199101-bleeding-power-steering/
Share on other sites

to drain it, i usually unhook the return hose and run it into a container whilst engine is running, make sure not to turn off engine as soon as the fluid stops running consistently. No need to bleed it, the air will bubble up to the fluid tank, helped by turning the steering lock to lock a few times whilst running.

to drain it, i usually unhook the return hose and run it into a container whilst engine is running, make sure not to turn off engine as soon as the fluid stops running consistently. No need to bleed it, the air will bubble up to the fluid tank, helped by turning the steering lock to lock a few times whilst running.

So while the fluids drains out, you leave the engine running, until the fluid stops? I have the exact problem. And when you put new one in, dont worry about the air? So I just turn on the engine and turn the wheel to get the air out? Please help.

Edit;

I drained my fluid by undoing one of the pipes from the pump to the rack, at the rack and let it drain out (took quite a while). I wouldnt run the engine while draining the system, but maybe i'm just being paranoid.

For bleeding the workshop manual says something like;

-Top up the fluid

-With the engine off, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue turning back and forth until you stop seeing bubbles. Might as well lift the front wheels off the ground first to make it easy.

-Top up fluid if required

-start the motor, then repeat turning the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue until you stop seeing bubbles

Then your done. I did this today. My friend looked for bubbles during the last step, but didnt see any. The steering is fine.

  • Thanks 1

I did mine with the engine running without any issues. take off the hose, start the car and turn full lock left to right about 12 times and it should drain out easily.

then connect everything up, fill up the fluid. with the car on turn left to right and u will see it sucks in the fluid in, keep topping it up until full and bubbles gone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...