Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey man

still got that rear bar reo to suit a series 1, if so its sold to me.

i live in frankston so if your not too far away ill just pick it up one night after work or on the weekend sometime

cheers get back to me

pick up this w/e only no real offers refused to clear some space.

Shell $1000 need your own wheels thou

Fiberglass fenders $200

GTR bar $140

stock rear bar $40

Rear reo $30

Tail lights $40 each

seats series 1 drivers and rear, series 2 all $120 each imm condish

i have series 1 and 2 neer compelte interias make offers come down.

Brand new gtr spoiler with led light $300

bootlid $50

doors $80

seatbelts $50 each complete series 1 and series 2 dual air bag types.

MSG ME or call me on 0401011380 i live neer knox city.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey only the rear bar is geniune plastic bar, and i'd rather keep it on the shell as i'm having enough trouble trying to sell it as is, without stripping it any further. sorry mate. if i get i buyer for the shell who doesn;t want it i'll pm you

rear bar, boot tail lights, rear quarters, front bar, doors, bonnet but it has bent corners is fixable doesnt have any front fenders, headlights front windsheild front seats steering wheel or speedo cluster but rest of interia is complete

are you able to email me a few ptoto's of the complete car as i would be receiving it please to [email protected] also can you let me know your location in melbourne. im located in tassie, so would bring a trailer over on the boat to bring it back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Change the transmission fluid. I would try Motorcraft XT-M5-QS if you have it in your area for a reasonable price. Also, double check your clutch is fully disengaging. If you are not pushing the clutch pedal to the floor fully for every shift now is the time to start. Make sure the clutch is fully bled. The damper line requires two distinct bleed points to be purged of air or it will not disengage the clutch properly. If either hydraulic cylinders input or output are losing hydraulic pressure in their seals/leaking you can have problems like this. If you've ruled out everything else then the most likely explanation is the synchros are worn and you need to double clutch the shift or rebuild/replace the transmission. The transfer case is discontinued FYI so you may want to rebuild it while you're in there too. If the chain stretches past spec it can do a ton of damage.
    • You're selling the SS?! How much are you asking on it?
    • My answer would be, that depends. If it's something that can be grumpy to start, runs a bit rich, and is likely an expensive engine, then yes, I would. But there's a few reasons why. Sumps aren't really sealed, there is airways to them, so it is technically open to moisture. Secondly, if as mentioned it has been started, and it's a fuelled up, I'd dump it, as chances are, fuel is in the oil. Next to that comes, how much use had said oil seen before it was parked up. IE, how much carbon, and potentially fuel/water did get in there while it was being used, and has now been allowed to sit, and slowly come together? For the most part, if it's just been something like a road car, stock engine, nothing wild, f**king send it if it's not near oil change spec.
    • I forgot to say Mark, you know how if you lack sleep, we get Grumpy Mark? When I lack sleep I'm Grumpy Matt. We must be the GrumpMa's!
×
×
  • Create New...