Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thank you very much. RB family has been helpful and also was a source of inspiration.

i will test different A/R s on the exhaust side, different cams and try to find the best combo on my Dynamics. BTW you Aussie people have a wonderful Dyno, and i am also a lucky owner of dynamics dyno as well.

dyno dynamics are ok but if your serious there is only one dyno and that is DYNAPACK..... far less hollywood, far more accurate and repeatable (especially at the kinda power you are talking 800hp and up) and no harder/longer to setup than a roller.

fkn sweet cars BTW i would love to drive that twin turboed bimmer.

dyno dynamics are ok but if your serious there is only one dyno and that is DYNAPACK..... far less hollywood, far more accurate and repeatable and no harder/longer to setup than a roller.

fkn sweet cars BTW i would love to drive that twin turboed bimmer.

Not harder or longer to set up then a roll on dyno??? lol

Ill stick with the rollers.

HP on dyno's is Hollywood full stop regardless of the type.

Nice setup on the M3 :)

I'd be having a look at what borgwarner/airwerks have to offer. They do a 91mm turbo and a few other sizes between that and the gt60 sized compressor which is huge.

Precision has a range of 91 - 94 - 98 - 101 mm compressor wheels but i want to stick to Garrett.

A 98 mm falls between a Gt55 and Gt60, but i insist on Garrettt.

dyno dynamics are ok but if your serious there is only one dyno and that is DYNAPACK..... far less hollywood, far more accurate and repeatable (especially at the kinda power you are talking 800hp and up) and no harder/longer to setup than a roller.

fkn sweet cars BTW i would love to drive that twin turboed bimmer.

Thanks mate.

I drove the 2.8L twin 2871 for 10 kilometers, then we decided to change the ex manifolds, and i fabricated tubular manifolds. as it is a hobby, it took some time. And a bigger intercooler is in place.

first minutes engine did not pass over 5000 rpm. I was shocked. Boost was 3 psi. Then i realized the ECU had a safety rpm cut at 5000 rpm. Removed the limiter.

During that 10 kilometers test drive, it was like sex driving twin 2871 2.8L

Now, with the 3,2L and 3,9L capacity, the feeling (power) may be amazing, assuming all go well.

Dynapackk, more time involved for wheels etc.

But you guys should be proud of Dynamics, what a consistency and quality.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...