Who Has Wrapped Or Coated Their Top Cooler Pipe. Fmic?

[Munkyb0y]

the top intercooler pipe that runs past the radiator seems to get pretty hot. but then everything in the engine bay gets pretty hot. i never checked, but i assume even the stock coldside pipe would have warmed up quite a bit under there.

so anyone who has bothered to heat wrap, or ceramic coat the pipe....did it make any difference?

is it worth doing? or does the air pass through there so fast that its not affected?

what about the guys with the stock cooler piping. after driving, does your cold side pipe feel hot?

Edited December 28, 2007 by Munkyb0y

[Dale FZ1]

Not a brilliant pic, but gives an idea of my efforts.

Running an inlet temp probe just prior to the throttle, I found inlet temps skyrocketed with slow speed, low load, stop start driving. The exit air temp from the radiator is 80 degrees +, and heat transfer through those alloy pipes is very rapid. Basically you'd have to expect degraded engine performance and an increased tendency to knock with higher inlet temps.

I changed to a custom fabricated steel pipe, HPC coated, then used a ceramic wool and covered with sticky backed refrigeration tape.

Result was much reduced heat soak effect IN THOSE CONDITIONS nominated.

Running at higher speeds (80km/h and above) + loads the differential effect was much less pronounced. Not an indicator of anything other than the higher mass flow of air being less affected by the radiator discharge in those conditions.

[Adriano]

Nice work dale, makes me want to eat some garlic bread, LOL. PS I think with that insulation the HPC would be a bit of a waste of money, not much would be getting through the rest.

[GeeTR]

Iv yet to see someone with too much time on their hands, create a double skinned IC pipe with a vacuum; think coffee thermos.

Now that would be trick

[Adriano]

You could use the void as a remote resevior for the brake booster

[75coupe]

so the trick is to not slow down and always have good airflow through the engine bay.... otherwise I need to wrap my nicely polished IC piping...

"Excuse me sir do you have any reason for speeding back there", "yes well I didn't want my inlet temp to get any higher as it lessens the performance of the engine..."

hehehehe

[Munkyb0y]

Not a brilliant pic, but gives an idea of my efforts.

Running an inlet temp probe just prior to the throttle, I found inlet temps skyrocketed with slow speed, low load, stop start driving. The exit air temp from the radiator is 80 degrees +, and heat transfer through those alloy pipes is very rapid. Basically you'd have to expect degraded engine performance and an increased tendency to knock with higher inlet temps.

I changed to a custom fabricated steel pipe, HPC coated, then used a ceramic wool and covered with sticky backed refrigeration tape.

Result was much reduced heat soak effect IN THOSE CONDITIONS nominated.

Running at higher speeds (80km/h and above) + loads the differential effect was much less pronounced. Not an indicator of anything other than the higher mass flow of air being less affected by the radiator discharge in those conditions.

what actual inlet temps did you see during the low speed, traffic driving? and what temps at 80kph+?

how do these compare to the piping that's not heat soaked by radiator air?

there's also that reflective stick on stuff. it's supposed to deflect alot of heat.

this is another good idea. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=133021

Edited December 30, 2007 by Munkyb0y

[GeeTR]

You could use the void as a remote resevior for the brake booster

now we're thinking

[r33cruiser]

or...or... think about this.

buy a GReddy intake plenum.

now thats using your noggin'

[W0rp3D]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=133021

Thanks for that link, i have been looking for something like that for a while, plazmaman sells piping kits with there top pipe like that http://www.plazmaman.com/shop/index.php?ac...m&itemId=21

or...or... think about this.

buy a GReddy intake plenum.

now thats using your noggin'

Im trying to keep my car as legal as possible when you pop the bonnet and the greddy inlet would be another inlet mod.

[Ionos]

or...or... think about this.

buy a GReddy intake plenum.

now thats using your noggin'

or ... or.... buy a Veyron!!

Not everyone has a cool $1000 lying around just to get slightly better intake temps and response.

Back on topic - I wrapped mine but can't say it made any noticable difference. However, I haven't actually shielded my pod yet, naughty naughty!

[GeeTR]

or...or... think about this.

buy a GReddy intake plenum.

now thats using your noggin'

*cough*

[Dale FZ1]

Nice work dale, makes me want to eat some garlic bread, LOL. PS I think with that insulation the HPC would be a bit of a waste of money, not much would be getting through the rest.

Yeah, it does look a bit like wrapped garlic bread HPC probably was a bit over the top but I decided to give it the best chance of success. Then the cast alloy pipe is affected by heat radiating from the manifold and top of the engine.

so the trick is to not slow down and always have good airflow through the engine bay.... otherwise I need to wrap my nicely polished IC piping...

Correct to some extent. It's also about the mass flow through the inlet tract, with a reasonable velocity preventing the heat penetrating and affecting the air within.

what actual inlet temps did you see during the low speed, traffic driving? and what temps at 80kph+?

how do these compare to the piping that's not heat soaked by radiator air?

there's also that reflective stick on stuff. it's supposed to deflect alot of heat.

this is another good idea. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=133021

I'd have to dig out some old notes I made while testing, but basically I was achieving Summertime inlet temps of 80+ degrees in stop/start traffic, idling at lights etc.

With the piping setup as pictured, it came down to ~ 60 degrees at an ambient 35-38 degrees.

Clearing the traffic light runs, with about 3km of constant running ~ 80km/h and a bit of throttle, it would come down to somewhere around 50 degrees or slightly under.

I ran some temp probes at different points under the bonnet, and on hot days the heat buildup under bonnet is significant. Those 270 degree pipe bends aren't a bad idea but you'll still get radiated heat affecting the air within them too.

I take it that the reflective stick on stuff is the tape you're looking at in my photo? It is basically a heavy grade alfoil with sticky back. Good, but I wouldn't use it by itself as a long term solution.

The Greddy style manifold may offer significant improvement over stock RB25 if trying to reduce heat soak.

out of info, but that's my experience and opinion.

cheers

Dale

[Devils_Advocate21]

Not sure but was there a mention of CAI in your setup dale?? Or if any sort of coating on exhaust housing and or manifold, of which both should minimise heat again to a certain extent its all about reducing the temps at the start as well more so..

[Munkyb0y]

from what i've been able to find, the air apparently travels through the piping at such a high speed (10's of metres per second) that the effects of a hot pipe are minimal.

the temps going in, as stated above ^, have a greater effect.

[khunjeng]

I just wrapped mine with heat wrap, same as the exhaust wrap stuff. Dale seems to have proven it but there is not doubt that thin Alum. pipe will conduct heat well when there is little airflow.

[Munkyb0y]

I just wrapped mine with heat wrap, same as the exhaust wrap stuff. Dale seems to have proven it but there is not doubt that thin Alum. pipe will conduct heat well when there is little airflow.

was there a noticeable improvement?

there's also this stuff, but it's gold

http://www.mmsport.com.au/productview.php?...d=Heat_Products

Edited December 31, 2007 by Munkyb0y

[Dale FZ1]

Not sure but was there a mention of CAI in your setup dale?? Or if any sort of coating on exhaust housing and or manifold, of which both should minimise heat again to a certain extent its all about reducing the temps at the start as well more so..

Yes, all true.

The manifold and turbo is all heat shielded.

The big silver box in my pic is a sealed pod enclosure with silver faced neoprene for insulation, and a direct external air feed. I couldn't afford/justify the down time or expense of removing and sending the manifold or turbine + dump for HPC coating. It was as far as I was prepared to go, but I proved to myself the value of the changes through the inlet temp probe.

[khunjeng]

was there a noticeable improvement?

there's also this stuff, but it's gold

http://www.mmsport.com.au/productview.php?...d=Heat_Products

not really...but it must with help with heat soak...but then again I dont drive my car that much in the heat or at the lights.