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Hey

Installed my Apexi PFC into my HCR32 yesterday, its an AP Engineering one suited to RB20.

Did the standard self learning procedure, 10 minutes normal idle, 10 minutes with the A/C on and 10 minutes with the demister on.

Everything went fine; car started up and idled fine etc

When I drove the car is drove all smooth and stuff and everything was fine, but I noticed when I gave it a bit of throttle the engine check light (I think it is?) began to flash.

I checked the H/C and the knock readings were at 105 and injector duty at 93.x % @ roughly 6,xxx RPM?

All I have done to the car is;

Blitz return flow intercooler

3" turbo back exhaust (but running standard cat)

BOSCH 040 in-tank pump

Boost creeps up to 12-13psi

Standard air box

Running on BP Ultimate

Is any reason why the knock readings and injduty would go up so high?

I am just slightly confused as I thought the PFC would run a standard map so I don't know what's going wrong, unless it's because of the extra 2-3psi or boost?

In higher gears such as 4th and 5th when cruising at about 100km/h, if I put my foot down sometimes it holds fine, other times the light on the cluster would flash then we'd check the H/C and knock would be under 100, but injduty would be like 90%+

dials01.jpg

Why would the check light start flashing?

The light I have circled in blue is the one that starts flashing, its pretty quick and I back off straight away when it flashes so not sure on the duration of the flash. Is that the engine check light?

Also sometimes when I come to a stop the idle is quiet high, about 1,100rpm which slightly varies between 1,000 - 1,500 RPM as appose to the usually 800rpm.

What does knock mean/doing, and whats a safe level?

Any reason injduty is so high?

Any thoughts?

Edited by abu
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hi abu

this is all covered in the powerfc faq - have a read and youll find all the answers

when you got the unit did you perform an ETC, DATA INIT or did you just do the self idle learn procedure?

the engine check light (as covered by the faq) comes on when knocking goes past 60 or when inj duty goes past 98%

hi abu

this is all covered in the powerfc faq - have a read and youll find all the answers

when you got the unit did you perform an ETC, DATA INIT or did you just do the self idle learn procedure?

the engine check light (as covered by the faq) comes on when knocking goes past 60 or when inj duty goes past 98%

Hey Paul

Been waiting for you to come on so I could ask you about this!

Yeah did the ETC, DATA INIT and YES. Did the full self-learning procedure, and did a sensor check.

All the sensors and everything are working, and checked all the values such as tmng, injduty, watertmp etc on idle and it was all as you indicated in your write up, so ordinary out of the normal there.

Oh I see, I thought maybe it would come on closer to 100, so a safe level is 60 knock and under?

Edited by abu

SETTING, INJECTOR

what do you see in here?

yeah a knock of 60 is pretty high and could be causing damage - hence why the engine light comes on

stop flogging the car and loading it up until you get it sorted

SETTING, INJECTOR

what do you see in here?

yeah a knock of 60 is pretty high and could be causing damage - hence why the engine light comes on

stop flogging the car and loading it up until you get it sorted

Will do man, thanks.

Haven't checked injectors but I checked the AFM and it was set to R32 NORMAL.

I will check the injector settings tonight when I get home. What if its set correctly, what else could be the issue?

I am just waiting to get a 3" cat in so I can get it on the dyno for a tune.

What would be causing the idle variance?

Edited by abu

just make sure the injectors are all on %100 and nothing else is changed

it sounds fine hitting 95% at 6k isnt a big deal, as long as it doesnt do it at 4000rpm it should be fine

and it will be on stock maps so it will be considerably richer than it will once its fully tuned - the afr's (could) well dip into the 9's at 6000rpm which is stupid

this will just drive up the duty and waste fuel etc - under normal conditions it will be around 12 so duty would be considerably less if this is the case

plonk it on a dyno and see what comes out - in the mean time if you insist on driving it and trashing it learn how to use the ign correct feature under SETTING, INJ/IGN ADJ and back out a few deg of timing to clear away the knocking issue you are seeing

just make sure the injectors are all on %100 and nothing else is changed

it sounds fine hitting 95% at 6k isnt a big deal, as long as it doesnt do it at 4000rpm it should be fine

and it will be on stock maps so it will be considerably richer than it will once its fully tuned - the afr's (could) well dip into the 9's at 6000rpm which is stupid

this will just drive up the duty and waste fuel etc - under normal conditions it will be around 12 so duty would be considerably less if this is the case

plonk it on a dyno and see what comes out - in the mean time if you insist on driving it and trashing it learn how to use the ign correct feature under SETTING, INJ/IGN ADJ and back out a few deg of timing to clear away the knocking issue you are seeing

Thanks Paul, makes sense now.

Don't drive the car a great deal anyway, short runs here and there thats about it.

Will try and get it onto a dyno within the next few days and hopefully get it all sorted, but for now I will have a little play around with the igntmng and see how that goes.

Hey, the tmng was hitting like 42deg @6,xxx RPM. Does that sound about right or a bit to high?

On idle it was on the normal 15 - 20deg.

42deg at 6 grand doesnt sound right

are you sure your reading it correctly and not just looking at the max value?

when you press UP it just shows you the max value for any given time - not at the current point in time

42deg ign timing would have been around 3000rpm ish or a bit lower - which is normal

15deg ing timing at idle is normal - also before you get a full time - make sure the mechanic does base idle ign timing check & set with a timing light

42deg ign timing at 6k on load will destroy the engine - which is why it sounds like your reading it wrong

most gtst's run around 20deg ign timing up near 6k RPM

42deg at 6 grand doesnt sound right

are you sure your reading it correctly and not just looking at the max value?

when you press UP it just shows you the max value for any given time - not at the current point in time

42deg ign timing would have been around 3000rpm ish or a bit lower - which is normal

15deg ing timing at idle is normal - also before you get a full time - make sure the mechanic does base idle ign timing check & set with a timing light

42deg ign timing at 6k on load will destroy the engine - which is why it sounds like your reading it wrong

most gtst's run around 20deg ign timing up near 6k RPM

I'm pretty sure I read it right.

What we did was, I would give it throttle in say 3rd, engine check light would come on then I'd back of and press up.

Ah wait I seee.. it just gives you the highest reading for each value right, so highest for igntmng, injduty, RPM, but that doesn't mean the igntmng, injduty and RPM are all read at the same time.

eg: @ 6,000RPM it was at 40deg igntmng and 95% injduty?

Its more like the highest RPM read was, the highest injduty was, and the highest igntmng was.

Yep I miss interpreted the information given.

Edited by abu

my car on the datalogit was showing engine light on dash with quarter throttle @3000rpm 3rd gear on the road. for that section of the map it was set to less then 23 which at the time of the light ad a knock reading of over 70.... basicaly std engine, wonder wtf it could be..

Well pulled the PFC out this afternoon as I couldn't get it to stop knocking, so stock ECU went back in.

Just wondering if the car knocks with the PFC, will it knock on the stock ECU, or is it safe to drive with the stock ECU?

cram it in there with the harness like it does naturaly, then used gods greatest creation... the cable tie!

Hahah thanks man.

I had the kick panel over it and it held fine, sitting in the stock position but.

I just want to secure it to make sure it doesn't rattle and get wrecked.

velcro is your friend

Ah good idea.

I want to use velcro for the hand commander but I don't know where to position it yet!

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