Bad Problem With Rb25det Plz Hellp

[almzro3e]

Hi ther

friends today i faced a bad sitewation my gts33 was runing 7 psi with few polt ons like exhust

and filter with intercooler and also safc2 with gtr fuel pump and sard fuel regulator

it was runing verry well then i had a race this day and i opend a boost to 14.7 and it start in full throtell

poping and seems like fuel cut then i reprogramed the safc2 and reduced the map frome -10 to -20 for all rpms in high throtell (i thout i had to change the intake pressure like HKS FCD) and also still poping so plz what dose the problem cam fome?

do i need to add more fuel or what?

and if i want to run that boost ( 1 bar) what should i do with fuel regulator and safc2?

or should i change the ecu to power fc?

plz my car stuk in home

[evil_weevil]

I got a headache from reading that....anyhoo,

Running that amout of boost in the standard turbo wont last long (you havent mentioned turbo upgrade with mods?)

Turn the boost back down if you want the standard turbo to last a bit longer.

If you can get your hands on powerFC I'd say go for the upgrade.

Otherwise get it to a good tuner and get it all set up and tuned professionally.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

Get it tuned on a dyno, or get a power fc, and a spellcheck may help too

[R31Nismoid]

You should not run 1bar with the factory turbo

10-11psi maximum

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

Unless you're looking for an excuse to do some major upgrades

btw search "rich retard"

[almzro3e]

thnx guys for hellp and EVILE thanx my friend the turbo is stock one with no modefecations

the problem is if i have safc2 and fuel regulator and fuel pump with IC and EXHUst

why i cant get 1 bar ? and i was told by some guys that when am making the #s on safc2 less than 0 like -

it will let me go more boost like ( titing the regulator and puting -15% on safc2 ) will let me go for 13 psi

so does it like that problem tuning the safc2 or its boost cut?

and sorry for disturbing all yaa

[Adriano]

I would get rid of the Fuel Pressure regulaor, the stock one is fine for 400RWKW, just run 10-11 psi and get it tuned on the dyno. Fiddling with the numbers like that on the road is a sure way to blow a motor or turbo.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

You can't run 1 bar cause the stock turbo will not handle it for long! Its been proven many times, at anything over 12psi they all blow eventually. Could be days, could be months, but they all let go

[almzro3e]

You can't run 1 bar cause the stock turbo will not handle it for long! Its been proven many times, at anything over 12psi they all blow eventually. Could be days, could be months, but they all let go

thanks guys i think i will reset boost to 12psi and cheek a/f ratios

and also some guys say that it retards too much so i should do 12psi or 10psi

thanks dears

[R31Nismoid]

Depends if you hit Rich & Retard (search for more info)

[Finny]

Ok I have experienced the exact same problem..

And guess what it is!!! Rich and Retard on the ECU and Also RB25DET stock ECUs have a limit to how much air you get, if you reach the limit you will get a cut (complete loss of all power for like 1-2 seconds).

When you change the values on your SAFC to -15% what your doing is telling the ECU that your are getting 15% less air than you really are so your bassicly delaying the air flow cut by 15%. Now the first thing your going to do after reading this is NEVER EVER EVER do that again unless you want holes in your pistons. -15% to an air fuel mixture would take 12:1 to 13.8:1 and I bet that its only due to Rich and Retard that this isn't causing engine problems. Seriously don't touch your SAFC unless you know what your doing, take it to a dyno tuner for a quick tune, prolly cost you about $100-$200 just to get the right settings on your SAFC.

Ok now I will cover Rich and Retard, because your running 14.7psi your prolly getting pinging, might not be hear-able but you would be getting it, when that happends the ECU richens up the fuel mixture and retards the timing which gives you poping sounds in your exhaust because the timing is probably so retarted that the air and fuel is still igniting when the exhaust valves open.

What you need is new management of some sort, SAFC's just don't cut it. I am still on the search for cheap management to fix these issues but havn't gotten any where yet. You can make this less of an issue by always running good fuel, experiment with different fuels see what works better, make sure you use 98 octane, this will stop the poping etc. Also take your car to a dyno tuner for the SAFC they might be able to make it better.

Lower your boost, 11-12psi at the absolute most. Trust me with your setup you will get more power on 11psi than on 14.7

[almzro3e]

Hi dear Finny and thnx alot its really what you said

and i will return boost to 11psi and i will use A/F ratio monitor i will

git it from friend its wide band and also i can read that ratios

and i will tune the safc2 to be in 13.0 A/F if i didn`t makw it

i will bring it to dyno tuners ( thay are expensive in our countrey its like

300$ or more ) but i hope my pisons still good