Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:RB26 and accessories

Age:re-built in 2003

Condition:good

Price:$4200 for the whole lot

To Fit:whatever car you want to put it in :blink:

Location:Sydney

Contact:me, by pm

Ok guys, It's time for me to sell all the gear out of my 32 GTR. I have bought an N1 Nur crate motor and had it rebuilt in japan so I need to sell off all my current gear before the new stuff arrives. The current engine was rebuilt in japan in 2003 according to the previous owner. It was an engine rebuild/refresh done in Saitama, Japan. The engine is in excellent condition and makes great power. I do less than 5,000kms a year in it so it's still very fresh. I do track days and the like with it and to ensure longevity I only run Motul Chrono 300V 10W40 (full ester) and I run a Defi oil pressure gauge to monitor oil pressure. It does not suffer oil surge at all (I do 2 laps whilst recording oil pressure, then play it back). Oil pressure is 8bar+ at cold start. once at operating temp it sits on about 6bar and higher whilst at a steady cruise (above 3,000rpm). Even at hot idle it sits on 2 bar. Also to ensure engine health I run a very conservative rev limit of 7,200 RPM at the circuit as RB26 on circuit + high revs do not mix.

The engine is currently making 260rwkw at just 1.05bar boost.

What you get:

my complete RB26 (rocker covers, plugs, head, everything in the head, the whole bottome end including sump, diff etc)

Trust Cam gears (currently fitted and dialed in nicely)

Trust Timing belt

Full Trust Hard pipe kit (I just recently spent about $250 buying new genuine Trust silicone joiners for it)

GTR FMIC

exhaust manifolds

Turbos (i'm not sure what they are, bit of a lucky dip on them, they do have HKS wastegate actuators which may hint at something, we will know when everything is pulled out. the previous owner in japan just said "turbocharger added")

Dump pipes and front pipes

Throttle bodies

Plenum

Fuel Injectors (440cc)

Fuel rail

standard radiator

Oil pump and water pump

engine mounts

I can probably throw in my Apexi Power intake kit too and all the turbo intake piping

I can also give you a copy of the Power FC tune which you can just upload to your Power FC. It's a good tune. Lots of time spent on it both on dyno and road tuning.

What you don't get, but will need: Coil packs, fuel reg (costs about $20 second hand), Power steering, altenator etc (just re-use what you have), inlet bridge (goes between throttles and engine).

Now the reason I'm selling all this gear for $4200 instead of $5,000 is there is a problem with it atm. The balancer bolt was not done up tight enough and it has snapped the keyway off the crank. It's not a hard fix as the standard keyway is not part of the crank, there is a half moon shaped recess in the crank and the keyway is pressed in, so it's not a big deal to weld a new one in there, then linish the snout and bobs your uncle. any competent workshop can weld up a new keyway and it will be fine. The only job the keyway does it locate the balancer whilst you are putting it on, once on it doesn't do anything, it doesn't drive the balancer, the bolt holding the balancer on the crank is what drives it. There are two options for repair:

1. Once the engine is out take it to workshop and get it repaired (I've spoken to Envy Imports, and Autosport and both have said they could easily repair it. I would guess repair costs of a couple hundred $)

2. Once the engine is out whip off the sump take out the crank and replace the crank, and the bearings with a new crank. Will cost about $1000 but then you basically have a brand new RB26.

I have considered repairing it before sale, but i would rather just take $4200 for the lot and let someone else do it, but I would be happy to help organise it. Anyone who has been in my car, or driven it I'm sure will attest to how fresh and crisp the engine felt in it.

A recent pic. Sorry for all the dust but I'd just had a little off track excursion and the dust went everywhere, so I took a pic before I cleaned it up.

picture016dj0.jpg

picture231sg3.jpg

0517002ui9.jpg

0517001bo2.jpg

and older pic,

dsc00210sxt2.jpg

This has been a great set-up for me putting out a meaty 270rwkw and pretty low boost and very conservative tune. It has almost no blow by, excellent compression and great power. All the parts you need for the same enjoyment are here.

BTW, if anyone out there for some reason is wondering about the price. Consider this. Replacing this stuff is costing me about $25,000... :devil:

yeah it's cheap, I need the dough! Forgot to add airflow meters are included too. and if you need an ECU I have a Kakimoto tuned standard computer which has a nice tune in it that I could probably throw in there.

It's pretty much a GTR front cut minus a few small pieces.

If there are no bites before I fit the new engine I will just get a new keyway put in and price will go well up. or I might just break up all the pieces. lots of money in it that way.

Trust hard pipe kit would have to be worth $400 (considering it has all new joiners costing me about $250, and new Sard dual bead hose clamps which cost be about $200)

GTR IC $150

GTR radiator $80

GTR throttles and plenum $800

GTR injectors $350 (these were recently cleaned and flowed and I have the results, all flowing 440cc)

GTR Afms $200

GTR complete intake piping $180

ECU $300

Trust cam gears $200

Trust timing belt (only about 8,000kms use) $800

GTR motor (basically covers, head, bottom end, sump and diff) $3100

Fuel rail $20

Dump pipe and front pipes $100

manifolds $100

HKS actuators $150 (pair)

Turbos (if standard $300, but they could be N1s, or similar in which case we are looking at at least $1000)

engine and gearbox mounts $70 for the set

That brings us to $7300 assuming the turbos are standard, or $8000 if they are not. I'm not interested in breaking stuff up and selling at this stage so please don't ask, I just put those rough prices up to give an idea of what you are getting. :devil:

I'm sure plenty of people on here can vouch for how I treat my car and how I monitor the engine and use only the best oils and coolant and service it what amounts to about 2,000kms between services. I use 4 defi gauges to monitor the engine (oil pressure, oil temp, fuel pressure and boost and even have another big oil pressure warning light and buzzer).

Bear in mind if you bought this for a GTST you could probably have the new keyway done, and the engine installed into your car for a total of maybe $6000 or so, then sell all your old GTST gear for maybe $1500-$2500 depending on what exactly you have. Then you have a nice, powerful, healthy RB26 conversion done for about $4000 or so. Very cheap power :blink:

NOTE: engine is still in car and I'm happy for any serious buyer to get compression test and leakdown tests done, but if you are the trusting type I can save you the dough as I have the results here from a test done for me at Grey Imports.

Reason for sale: I have bought an R34 N1 Nur crate motor in japan, and had it built to my spec (serious head etc) so I want to fit that

yeah I would say they are possibly some N1, or high flow. You can see the boost curve in the second dyno sheet. boost comes on very early, and holds very steady at 1.05 bar (15psi). Plus 267kw atw with such low boost is pretty uncommon, and who would bother fitting HKS actuators to stock turbos? still assume the worst and hope for the best I say. :D

would you consider freighting it?

is the crank a 32 0r 33 later type?

damn your new motor sounds like it'll rock

pics of the head in you other thread look damn nice

jealous

Hi mate,

as far as I know crank is R32 type with the narrow pump drive. hasn't been a problem for me in the 3 years I've run it, but it would be a perfect time to upgrade whilst the engine is out. just install a collar, or even easier replace crank with a 33 crank. Sure I would consider freight, basically I can put the engine into a pallet and box (the one the new engine comes out of). All of the extra stuff would be tricky though as there are lots of bits to go with it. So ideally I'm after someone local I guess, but if no body steps forward to take it I'll keep in touch. :)

Item:RB26 and accessories

Age:re-built in 2003

Condition:good

Price:$4200 for the whole lot

To Fit:whatever car you want to put it in ;)

Location:Sydney

Contact:me, by pm

Ok guys, It's time for me to sell all the gear out of my 32 GTR. I have bought an N1 Nur crate motor and had it rebuilt in japan so I need to sell off all my current gear before the new stuff arrives. The current engine was rebuilt in japan in 2003 according to the previous owner. It was an engine rebuild/refresh done in Saitama, Japan. The engine is in excellent condition and makes great power. I do less than 5,000kms a year in it so it's still very fresh. I do track days and the like with it and to ensure longevity I only run Motul Chrono 300V 10W40 (full ester) and I run a Defi oil pressure gauge to monitor oil pressure. It does not suffer oil surge at all (I do 2 laps whilst recording oil pressure, then play it back). Oil pressure is 8bar+ at cold start. once at operating temp it sits on about 6bar and higher whilst at a steady cruise (above 3,000rpm). Even at hot idle it sits on 2 bar. Also to ensure engine health I run a very conservative rev limit of 7,200 RPM at the circuit as RB26 on circuit + high revs do not mix.

The engine is currently making 260rwkw at just 1.05bar boost.

What you get:

my complete RB26 (rocker covers, plugs, head, everything in the head, the whole bottome end including sump, diff etc)

Trust Cam gears (currently fitted and dialed in nicely)

Trust Timing belt

Full Trust Hard pipe kit (I just recently spent about $250 buying new genuine Trust silicone joiners for it)

GTR FMIC

exhaust manifolds

Turbos (i'm not sure what they are, bit of a lucky dip on them, they do have HKS wastegate actuators which may hint at something, we will know when everything is pulled out. the previous owner in japan just said "turbocharger added")

Dump pipes and front pipes

Throttle bodies

Plenum

Fuel Injectors (440cc)

Fuel rail

standard radiator

Oil pump and water pump

engine mounts

I can probably throw in my Apexi Power intake kit too and all the turbo intake piping

I can also give you a copy of the Power FC tune which you can just upload to your Power FC. It's a good tune. Lots of time spent on it both on dyno and road tuning.

What you don't get, but will need: Coil packs, fuel reg (costs about $20 second hand), Power steering, altenator etc (just re-use what you have), inlet bridge (goes between throttles and engine).

Now the reason I'm selling all this gear for $4200 instead of $5,000 is there is a problem with it atm. The balancer bolt was not done up tight enough and it has snapped the keyway off the crank. It's not a hard fix as the standard keyway is not part of the crank, there is a half moon shaped recess in the crank and the keyway is pressed in, so it's not a big deal to weld a new one in there, then linish the snout and bobs your uncle. any competent workshop can weld up a new keyway and it will be fine. The only job the keyway does it locate the balancer whilst you are putting it on, once on it doesn't do anything, it doesn't drive the balancer, the bolt holding the balancer on the crank is what drives it. There are two options for repair:

1. Once the engine is out take it to workshop and get it repaired (I've spoken to Envy Imports, and Autosport and both have said they could easily repair it. I would guess repair costs of a couple hundred $)

2. Once the engine is out whip off the sump take out the crank and replace the crank, and the bearings with a new crank. Will cost about $1000 but then you basically have a brand new RB26.

I have considered repairing it before sale, but i would rather just take $4200 for the lot and let someone else do it, but I would be happy to help organise it. Anyone who has been in my car, or driven it I'm sure will attest to how fresh and crisp the engine felt in it.

A recent pic. Sorry for all the dust but I'd just had a little off track excursion and the dust went everywhere, so I took a pic before I cleaned it up.

picture016dj0.jpg

picture231sg3.jpg

0517002ui9.jpg

0517001bo2.jpg

and older pic,

dsc00210sxt2.jpg

This has been a great set-up for me putting out a meaty 270rwkw and pretty low boost and very conservative tune. It has almost no blow by, excellent compression and great power. All the parts you need for the same enjoyment are here.

BTW, if anyone out there for some reason is wondering about the price. Consider this. Replacing this stuff is costing me about $25,000... :O

Dyno IT 56 !

Hmmn, shield those pods

Oh wow same problem i had before Richard,

Anyone wanting to know about thre crank problem i recently done, got it repaired for less than $400

yep, that's how I knew what yours was as I had just diagnosed mine at home. :blush:

did you get greg to fix yours?

yep, that's how I knew what yours was as I had just diagnosed mine at home. :blush:

did you get greg to fix yours?

Yeah, good as new! no more vibrations!

but now suspect turbo oil seal blown. need to do leak down test soon.

i swear i am never going to make it out to a southern event in my car.

Item:RB26 and accessories

Age:re-built in 2003

Condition:good

Price:$4200 for the whole lot

To Fit:whatever car you want to put it in :cool:

Location:Sydney

Contact:me, by pm

Ok guys, It's time for me to sell all the gear out of my 32 GTR. I have bought an N1 Nur crate motor and had it rebuilt in japan so I need to sell off all my current gear before the new stuff arrives. The current engine was rebuilt in japan in 2003 according to the previous owner. It was an engine rebuild/refresh done in Saitama, Japan. The engine is in excellent condition and makes great power. I do less than 5,000kms a year in it so it's still very fresh. I do track days and the like with it and to ensure longevity I only run Motul Chrono 300V 10W40 (full ester) and I run a Defi oil pressure gauge to monitor oil pressure. It does not suffer oil surge at all (I do 2 laps whilst recording oil pressure, then play it back). Oil pressure is 8bar+ at cold start. once at operating temp it sits on about 6bar and higher whilst at a steady cruise (above 3,000rpm). Even at hot idle it sits on 2 bar. Also to ensure engine health I run a very conservative rev limit of 7,200 RPM at the circuit as RB26 on circuit + high revs do not mix.

The engine is currently making 260rwkw at just 1.05bar boost.

What you get:

my complete RB26 (rocker covers, plugs, head, everything in the head, the whole bottome end including sump, diff etc)

Trust Cam gears (currently fitted and dialed in nicely)

Trust Timing belt

Full Trust Hard pipe kit (I just recently spent about $250 buying new genuine Trust silicone joiners for it)

GTR FMIC

exhaust manifolds

Turbos (i'm not sure what they are, bit of a lucky dip on them, they do have HKS wastegate actuators which may hint at something, we will know when everything is pulled out. the previous owner in japan just said "turbocharger added")

Dump pipes and front pipes

Throttle bodies

Plenum

Fuel Injectors (440cc)

Fuel rail

standard radiator

Oil pump and water pump

engine mounts

I can probably throw in my Apexi Power intake kit too and all the turbo intake piping

I can also give you a copy of the Power FC tune which you can just upload to your Power FC. It's a good tune. Lots of time spent on it both on dyno and road tuning.

What you don't get, but will need: Coil packs, fuel reg (costs about $20 second hand), Power steering, altenator etc (just re-use what you have), inlet bridge (goes between throttles and engine).

Now the reason I'm selling all this gear for $4200 instead of $5,000 is there is a problem with it atm. The balancer bolt was not done up tight enough and it has snapped the keyway off the crank. It's not a hard fix as the standard keyway is not part of the crank, there is a half moon shaped recess in the crank and the keyway is pressed in, so it's not a big deal to weld a new one in there, then linish the snout and bobs your uncle. any competent workshop can weld up a new keyway and it will be fine. The only job the keyway does it locate the balancer whilst you are putting it on, once on it doesn't do anything, it doesn't drive the balancer, the bolt holding the balancer on the crank is what drives it. There are two options for repair:

1. Once the engine is out take it to workshop and get it repaired (I've spoken to Envy Imports, and Autosport and both have said they could easily repair it. I would guess repair costs of a couple hundred $)

2. Once the engine is out whip off the sump take out the crank and replace the crank, and the bearings with a new crank. Will cost about $1000 but then you basically have a brand new RB26.

I have considered repairing it before sale, but i would rather just take $4200 for the lot and let someone else do it, but I would be happy to help organise it. Anyone who has been in my car, or driven it I'm sure will attest to how fresh and crisp the engine felt in it.

A recent pic. Sorry for all the dust but I'd just had a little off track excursion and the dust went everywhere, so I took a pic before I cleaned it up.

picture016dj0.jpg

picture231sg3.jpg

0517002ui9.jpg

0517001bo2.jpg

and older pic,

dsc00210sxt2.jpg

This has been a great set-up for me putting out a meaty 270rwkw and pretty low boost and very conservative tune. It has almost no blow by, excellent compression and great power. All the parts you need for the same enjoyment are here.

BTW, if anyone out there for some reason is wondering about the price. Consider this. Replacing this stuff is costing me about $25,000... :P

hey mate would u take 4000 for the whole lot.... does it come with wiring harness

you need to pull your finger out andrew. we want to see the car on the track. greg

lol, I don't think andrew is allowed to call it a track car anymore. 1 meet in 3 years does not a track car make. my mums camry sees more tack time. hehe if that doesn't get him cracking nothing will. :blink:

lol, I don't think andrew is allowed to call it a track car anymore. 1 meet in 3 years does not a track car make. my mums camry sees more tack time. hehe if that doesn't get him cracking nothing will. :huh:

Haha, Dont worry Richard, i've pulled the finger out and got cracking on getting this motor out.

just have to save some money and budget around my trip to chile in august and my daily driver i am buying today!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Those car show concepts from the 2000's and 2010's like the Floria and IDx were brilliant and should've gone ahead, at least one of them. But neither Honda nor Nissan are thinking about affordable performance any more, which is truly sad.  Even if Toyota's liquid hydrogen ICE development reaches the point where it's commercially viable and the infrastructure to support it, Honda/Nissan would have to wait until Toyota allow fee access to their patents to offer it with any smaller performance models they released to take advantage of it.  
    • A sporty manual RWD coupe with a IL4 Honda engine would only be a good thing I assume we won't see anything released for a few years though, unless informal talks and designs have been going on for a few years,  and due to the current, and future, emmisions and safety requirements, I assume anything "sporty" they would do would be at least some hybrid thingie And hopefully anything they are thinking of has nice lines, without lots of plastic and fake bits hanging off it like that horrendous FK8 that looked like it was designed by a 13 year old The other issue of course in the current market is cost, currently the type R is around $70k, a twin is around $50k Meh, I'm old and grumpy and would rather buy a older model car and waste my coin on that than buying anything currently available new  
    • Nissan needs to forget about building SUVs in every size possible and bring back the damn Silvia/200sx duo to compete with the 86/brz. Maybe with the Honda type r motor pointing the right way
    • Good to see you followed your heart, got your dream car and have it pretty well sorted out now. I think anyone can get caught out with a seller not being 100% honest about a cars problems. Can relate to all the electrical issues, had similar issues with my first car (mk2 escort) ages ago
    • I just bought the Nexus S3 for my gtt, haven’t installed it yet as I’m collecting parts to do everything at once…so far spent $14,000 The Nexus is nearly future proof
×
×
  • Create New...