Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Please Anyone? Blown Stagea Rs4 Gearbox


Recommended Posts

hi guys im new to this forum and new to stageas..... i own a stagea rb25det auto i dont pretend to know a great deal about them thats why im here to ask your advice...its red in colour, lowered about two inches ive put 350z wheels on it...it pretty tidy and its my pride and joy...the car has done about 120000kms. its the 'dayz' model......it runs in rear wheel drive mode (previous owner did this) im told by just taking hte chip out.....but who knows honestly.......after driving home one night from work (about a 3/4 hour trip mostly freeway driving) i went to revrse park my stagea and the car just revved as if it was in neutral.......same goes for first gear...the car however goes in when i put it in drive (the box engages second gear) ....the box makes a quiet humming noise when it is in gear but slippping... i have been told 1million different things from put new oil and filters in it and it will be fine to throw hte thing away and put an rb25 RWD auto in it......i love the car and wana keep it....i also wana make a little bit more power (maybe 180kw ATW) what do u think would be the best solution for me.....i dont have a great deal of money as im an apprentice...i live int he sydney area so any recomended owrkshops would be so great......i was told by a mate this would be the place to get the most reliable info so any would be so greatly appreciated.....

thanks so much guys.....

post-45973-1199055694_thumb.jpg

Edited by stagea_rb25
Link to comment
Share on other sites

you are a brave, brave man putting your mobile number on a public forum.

Why the hell would you want to convert an RS4 to permanent RWD? Wouldn't you be better off selling it and BUYING a RWD stagea?

OK, First things first, you CANNOT run a stagea in rear wheel drive by taking the "fuse" out. That may have worked for the R32 attessa system, but all it does for the stagea is cause problems with the transfer case. The only real way to do it is to drop the front driveshaft out (maybe have a look and see if there is one first?) Anywhoo, that probably has absolutely nothing to do with your problem at hand. Fortunately, second hand stagea auto's are actually pretty cheap (the last one I helped source second hand cost a grand total of $120!!)

For 180awkw, all I would recommend is a stage 1 shift kit from MV auto's - use the search function as this has been discussed many times on here, and you will discover a lot of converts for it. Having said that, maybe this is the perfect time for a manual conversion? :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks mate....

you all seem like a decent bunch so i dont mind putting my mob number up...

yeah i was having a read in the gearbox section about the whole 'chip' situation and rwd conversion.........ill have a look when i can under tha car and check it out but yeah the old owner said he took a fuse out.....is that maybe what could have caused my gearbox to sh*t its self....just wondering so i can repair it back to all wheel drive so it is purely what hte factory designed it for.....thanks again for your help i really appreciate it im not fully clued up on the stageas yet but am keen to learn,,,!!!!!

thanks , james

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The drive shaft doesn't really have anything to do with the problem at hand though, it just may be a sign that the previous owner hasn't really thought things through.

The transfer case and the attessa system (4WD control) doesn't actually have anything to do with the auto trans though. Even though the transfer case looks like a part of the auto, it is a very different part of the car. Can we assume you have done all the usual stuff like checked the fluid levels in the trans with the engine warmed up and running?

If so, the next step will be to look closely at the transfer case and make sure it is still pushing the power through as it should. The first thing to do will be to open the cargo area, and on the right hand side behind the little door behind the rear strut tower is a resivior for the 4wd system fluid. It takes the same fluid as the auto, and checking the level is the same proceedure (engine warmed up and running etc) and make sure its full. If it is really low or empty then you may need to fill it up and bleed it. This CAN get a little tricky though, so if you are unsure maybe get it down to a auto trans specialist to look at it? I would offer to have a squiz, but I am in WA....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

while RWD only can be a lot of fun.. it would probably be good to get the car back to AWD .

these things are remarkably sure footed .. hardly ever breaks traction

hey if you ARE going to do anything with the gearbox why not get that MV autos shift kit installed while your at it? the box might just need a service and not a total replacement

and Dale thats pretty damned cheap for a stagea gearbox.. where the hell did you find that from,?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.....and Dale thats pretty damned cheap for a stagea gearbox.. where the hell did you find that from,?

I would tell you, but then I would have to kill you!

Nah, its not that uncommon, people get the stageas in as half cuts to use as cheap parts mules for skylines etc, but the auto's and tranfer cases are not in much demand so the wreckers are usually pretty keen to get rid of them. That one in particular was from a well known WA identity and was hooked up for me by a VERY undervalued forum member here. (ban, anyone? :D )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thamls again guys.....im not with the car ATM but il check that resivour out asap........i checked the fluid the level was right but it smelled very burned????? what is the "MV shift kit" are they a WA based company?? how much does the kit retail for....sounds like a good investmnet though...thanks again guys ur legends!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thamls again guys.....im not with the car ATM but il check that resivour out asap........i checked the fluid the level was right but it smelled very burned????? what is the "MV shift kit" are they a WA based company?? how much does the kit retail for....sounds like a good investmnet though...thanks again guys ur legends!!!!

:D

I hate to tell you this, but that is not a good sign.......

MV Autos are a Adelaide company, and from memory its about $300 plus fitting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey if you ARE going to do anything with the gearbox why not get that MV autos shift kit installed while your at it? the box might just need a service and not a total replacemen

did that to my s1 and it fixed the slipping for a few months but the damage had been done. and i needed some major repairs later

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey mate i pm'd you. got a box, shift kitted. runs perfect only reason i took it out was to convert to manual.

there ya go, swap out the old auto and wack in his, perfect

then with the rwd/awd thingy, put the fuse back in.

attessa awd repairs are expensive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may trust us all with your mobile number (dont blame you, the stagea forum seems to attract a great bunch of people), but be aware this forum is able to be viewed by anyone - even without signing up or logging in. Topics will come up in google searches and all sorts so its not just us the number will be seen by.

If it was me I'd be removing it, but its your call :)

Hope you get the problem sorted.

Did the car have a major 100,000km service? and was the gearbox serviced regularly (supposed to be done every 12 months, and by a professional auto trans specialist, not just an oil change).

The reason I mention this is because I owned a S13 n/a silvia and at about 125,000 km its auto gearbox started losing gears, first 4th, then 3rd and so on until I was driving into town to get it fixed and by the time I got there I only had 1st gear lol! My car after that was a S13 turbo silvia, 1 year newer, with over 130,000kms on it and when I sold it at 160,000kms it was still going strong...

Maybe I just had a bad egg, but not knowing much at all about cars at the time, never did its major service at 100,000km (it has a timing chain so that part is ok, just all the other fluids that weren't changed etc), and never serviced the gearbox until about a year before it crapped itself. The turbo silvia had a good service history when I bought it and I kept it up and looked after it a lot better. Not suggesting yours isn't looked after. Sometimes things like this just happen >_<

All the best with the new auto if you go down that path :) and yes put the fuse back in. AWD is awesome. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
    • If you really want squish back, you can have it put on the piston (at least to some extent).
    • Impressive. He's very very smooth.
×
×
  • Create New...