Anyone Run 20+psi Through Their Gt3076?

[NYTSKY]

Searching through the dyno results thread i couldnt find anyone who had pushed a GT3076 turbo over 20psi.

Is 20+psi still in the GT3076 efficiency range?

I will be bolting the .82 version on my car soon and want to run it at around its peak efficiency range.

When would this turbo run out of puff?

[The Mafia]

mine went to 22psi one night - f**ken thing went spastic. Like heaps of power.

I reckon you'd go all the way to 25psi before they'd start to show signs of airflow running out. Have you looked at a compressor map? Dale_FZ1 might be the one to ask, I'll email him this thread link. Definately something I'm interested in.

[NYTSKY]

You have the .63 housing on you turbo though Mafia?

[The Mafia]

yeah, and the standard manifold.

I managed 314rwkw on the Dyno but detonation showed its ugly head, and even with more water meth being injected, it still detonated here and there.

I think just over 300rwkw is the absolute limit of the standard manifold and 0.63 housing. There is just too much back pressure at 20psi and beyond.

[NYTSKY]

Ill be going the SS highmount option,trying to get as restriction free as possible.

[The Mafia]

With power fc or any other after market computer you can boost her way over 20psi even with that turbo go hard for max power

so if I run an aftermarket computer, standard injectors, standard intake, standard exhaust, etc I can "boost her up to" 30psi on a standard engine?

Damn school holidays..

[The Mafia]

I have done every bit of work, from bolting it together to every second of tuning.

You're the fool, saying that you should just crank up the boost well beyond 20psi just because you have an aftermarket ECU?

Ever seen a compressor map?

Ever tuned a car?

Ever setup a fuel system?

Do you even know what factors involve " uping the boost" and how many other systems can fail \ need to be configured?

Simply "uping the boost" works until about 10 psi, beyond that, there is so many damn things that need to be looked at.

I don't even know why I am explaining myself to you? You have, 12 posts, and joined today? Oh, thats right, you know everything because you're on the internet.

[Adriano]

I doubt that noobie, every post you have made so far shows inexperience.

Edited December 31, 2007 by Adriano

[The Mafia]

lol mate ur a girl if you dont do work to your own car then u would no how strong they are!!!! and i already said u would be stupid to buy a after market ecu without having done all other mods so stop goosing boy yeh ino u joined today you pedo cheacking my status and darling im a mechanic play nice i might no something you dont.....

Mechanic? You should tell me where you work so I can never take my car there, and tell all of my friends to avoid you too.

If you knew anything about the RB25, then you'd know just how weak the standard internals are, and that the systems I'm running allow me to cheat and run excessive boost through it (20psi).

I didn't check your profile either, I just assumed that since you type sentences like a 13 year old, think you know it all like one, and act like one, then you were infact, around the low teens? Your attitude stinks, along with your knowledge.

But something I'm interested in - do you own a RB powered car? If so, then can you "up the boost" beyond 20psi for me and tell me what happens? If you don't own one, then maybe show off to a customer just how elite your skills are, and up their boost beyond 20psi and see what happens. I'm sure they'll be happy with you and reward you with more cash for giving them so much more extra power.

Thanks.

Edited December 31, 2007 by The Mafia

[GeeTR]

Nice! Cheers Kincrome for the laughs, its made having to work on NY that much easier Pedo? Darling? wtf Keep it coming.

And Jono, worked up so easily

[GeeTR]

well friend, im not going to doubt your superior intellect, but least try and keep it on track yah.

The discussion was on the efficiency of the Gt3076 on a internally stock RB25, and when winding more boost just proves to heat up the charge too much.

Keep in mind, boost is air the motor CANT swallow, so 20psi from a 3076 is a tad different from 20psi from a TA45... but of course your an el33t mechanic with lots of experience with these motors... cus your blown so many up, so youd be well aware of this.

>> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html << might help you with your next post on the topic

Edited December 31, 2007 by GeeTR

[GeeTR]

Heheh, sure thang girlfriend

[Shane_954]

Hahaha funny. I thought you said you were a mechanic Kincrome? What sorta mechanic has to ask on the internet if coils fail under load?

Just seems a bit strange thats all, let me guess, just started your first week at tafe?

[Risking]

Dave I usually use them at roughly 25-26psi. They tend to respond best to my tunning at these boost levels

Im not in anyway saying thats the max or peak efficieny of the turbo but from my experiance with them thats what tends to give decent results.

With the power your chasing id seriously suggest upgrading everything you have already done as well. Fuel pump/s, ECU, etc etc

With what you chasing the little Z32 infront of these housings can become a problem so if possible id look into going with a map sensored ecu perhaps.

on the whole internals I know of a few RB's running around with 300Kw's with stock unopened engines. They are driven hard but tunned very well by experianced people!

[NYTSKY]

Firstly i should have said the motor will be built within the coming weeks.

Brad: Ive been looking at getting a Haltech off a friend of mine.But failing that ill just run the Z32,people still run these with high 300s at the treads.But as you say its all in the tuning.

EDIT:The GTR looks awesome in white

And kinc(h)rome the GT3076 is a real turbo,and if you are the competent mechanic you say you are,this upgrade is well worth the hassal,if you cant add anything constructive to this thread,spend your time doing some reasearch before you make a complete plonk of yourself.

[The Mafia]

With what you chasing the little Z32 infront of these housings can become a problem so if possible id look into going with a map sensored ecu perhaps.

I'm running a Q45, its showing no signs of maxing so I'm pretty happy with it. Its 90mm too, so less restriction.

on the whole internals I know of a few RB's running around with 300Kw's with stock unopened engines. They are driven hard but tunned very well by experianced people!

Here is my car's latest Dyno. This dyno is a dyno dunamics, and was within 2rwkw of the mainlline on the other side of town.

I took the car for a quick 1 hour road tune the night before. I've since fixed the AFR curve when the VCT cuts out. Its a hard spot that one but persistance gets it right.

That power curve was almost identical to my mates 300rwkw NA 2006 model Monaro.

Edited January 1, 2008 by The Mafia

[NYTSKY]

I always thought 12.5AFRs was a bit lean?

Or is somewhere between 12.5 and 11.5 the sweet spot?

EDIT: Nice curve though

[The Mafia]

don't freak out but I was aiming for 12.8:1.

BUT don't forget I am running a water \ methanol injection system.

The reason people run rich mixtures in tunes is to deaden down the burn ie. slow it down. You don't need to run the extra fuel (like 11.5:1) because the water takes over the job of supressing the burn to make it burn slower. The Methanol drops the inlet charge by about 15 degrees helping ever further.

WMI systems are awesome. Especially up here in the tropics where the fuel is bad, and the heat is even worse.

Running the system actually makes stuff all difference between a hot day and a cool night. On a really cold freezing night, the car pings because the inlet charge is so cold and thick.

[Risking]

haha, nope my GTR is still gunmetal dave.

Thats Jess' GTR you would have seen.

The Haltech would be the go for what you want. The Z32 will work okay but big compressors lead to surge. Even the Autronic SM4 is a good thing.

12.5's is a bit on the lean side for something making so much grunt. for longevity id run it around the 11.9 mark to be safer.

Mafia what sort of timing are you running through the top end with your set-up?

Ah I seen the injection makes all the difference

Edited January 1, 2008 by Risking

[The Mafia]

haha, nope my GTR is still gunmetal dave.

Thats Jess' GTR you would have seen.

The Haltech would be the go for what you want. The Z32 will work okay but big compressors lead to surge. Even the Autronic SM4 is a good thing.

12.5's is a bit on the lean side for something making so much grunt. for longevity id run it around the 11.9 mark to be safer.

Mafia what sort of timing are you running through the top end with your set-up?

Ah I seen the injection makes all the difference

its been on 18-20psi for over a year now, and AFRs on 12.5:1 and no less. (until I upgraded the fuel pump and they hit 10:1, the car ran like a disaster haha)

The timing has been on 22 degrees on the full load row, I've backed it off to 19 degrees which drops the car to about 305rwkw. Just being safe as since there is so much back pressure in the exhaust manifold, I've got a little bit of detonation when things get extreme.

Since I've backed it off to 19 degrees its showing no signs of detonation at all. Safer that way.

Bare in mind that my base timing I don't think is at 15 degrees so that 19 degrees could mean more or less.

What I might do is set my base back to 15 degrees and increase or decrease the entire map accordingly.