Jump to content
SAU Community

My engine is really sick (video)

Guest veilsideS14

By Guest veilsideS14,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest veilsideS14

Guest veilsideS14

Posted
Posted

Here is some background information. A couple days ago, I was driving my car through some rural roads (off boost driving) when I noticed that it was starting to get really hot. Eventually, it got really hot and overheated. I pulled over to the side of the road and called a tow-truck to have my car hauled the rest of the way home.

I hadn't had this issue before so I thought it was either the water pump or the thermostat. I replaced the thermostat because it was the lesser of the two items. I filled it back up with coolant and started it up.

At idle, the car sounds great. It doesn't puff any wacky smoke or anything. But when you rev it up a little bit, it makes some weird clacking/knocking noise. I've included a video with audio so all can see it first hand.

http://24.163.137.145/engine.wmv

Any suggestions? My engine is really sick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19973-my-engine-is-really-sick-video/
Share on other sites
Guest veilsideS14

Guest veilsideS14

Posted
Posted

Nope, no smoke. I thought it could have been a head gasket issue as well but there is no white smoke coming from the exhaust. My next step is to take the plugs out to make sure there is nothing funky happening that I'm not seeing.

I just think it's really crazy that all of a sudden, it is making this aweful noise. I'm soooo sad for my engine :)

Guest veilsideS14

Guest veilsideS14

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by CerealKiller

could you possibly get a vid of it just idling? it might help a bit more.

Actually, if you can believe it or not, at idle, it sounds perfectly fine. I fired the engine up and let it idle for a while as I was trying to circulate coolant through my new thermostat. It wasn't untill I revved the engine a bit that I noticed it was making this funny noise.

Guest veilsideS14

Guest veilsideS14

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by SKYLINEGTR

no smoke thats a good sign make sure all belts have no play its hard do pinpoint it thow from the video guess it will have to come down to equation thing,is it boosting ?

I will check the belts. Most of them are brand new but I'll take a peek at them anyway, just to make sure.

I haven't driven it since the overheating incident so it's not been boosting yet.

Guest veilsideS14

Guest veilsideS14

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by CerealKiller

what about a clip of it say just below boost (constant not reving) - as in a 5 sec clip of it at 2,500rpm

I can do that. I will take a video and post it later today. Thanks for all the help and concern guys.

You really think it could be a piston issue though? Like it's slapping the valves or something even worse?

Morgs Veteran

Morgs

Posted
Posted

Whatever it is, I wouldn't be turning it on and revving it anymore.

Water pump sounds possible, if theres plenty of (non water) oil in the thing then that would supposedly rule out internals, perhaps its something on the belt.. get it checked out... damn thats a horrible sound :D

Dosen't sound like piston slap to me, that will occur on idle

Guest Dragon

Guest Dragon

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Demon Dave

i'm no expert but, if the car is idling OK and not smoking, it sounds like the pistons/cams etc are fine. It could be a serious problem with the water pump? That might also expain the overheating....

I would have to agree with Dave here, if it started to overheat, then get worse, now sounds like this, but no smoke, no blowby, then it sounds like the waterpump has spat the dummy and is scraping against the block.

I'd start the engine, with the rad cap off, and check to see if there is ANY water flow.

Is there oil pressure? A stuffed oil pump will cause an engine to overheat, resulting in chewed out bearings.

The sound I hear on the video sounds like big ends/little ends with NO oil!

I have cooked an engine with a perfectly working cooling system through lack of oil pressure. The result, stuffed to bearings big time. Overheated the same, like yours, blew coolent out, then sounded like yours the next day.

It can happen.

Check oil pressure.

Check oil pump.

Check water pump.

Pull rocker cover off and check to see if the metal has gone a temp colour. Also start while rocker cover off and see if any oil is making it's way into the head.

To me, it doesn't sound good. :D

Sorry. Good luck.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Or ...

if the Sr20 has it an indler bearing for the cam belt... it could be that.

The cam belt had been chaged but the bearing hadn't.

I had that happen to my RB20.

It was making noise... and then one day let go.

And then ... bye bye to all 24 valves as the pistons smashed them all up. That cost a farking fortune!

Guest veilsideS14

Guest veilsideS14

Posted
Posted

Someone suggested to me that it could be clutch/flywheel chatter as well. I've got an OS Giken twin plate clutch in my car right now. I've never heard this before so I'm not sure why it would show up just now but that was another opinion being thrown around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • WMDC35
      Tomei gasket

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      Are you sure the gasket is blown? What are the issues? Thermocure is the only flush I've seen do anything with rust, very impressed with that, Prestone, rust will be by the pool having a cigarette.  
    • MBS206
      Tomei gasket

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And since the flush you have a blown head gasket? Have you lifted the head off yet?
    • GTSBoy
      Hr34 fuel pump not turning on

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The answer is to get a hold of the wiring diagram, work out what voltage is supposed to be where, when, and then work out why it is not there, then. I can't speak to the HR34 stuff, because I have never paid any attention to the NAs. There is a possibility that the turbo diagram will help, but it could also be different - depending on whether there is an FPCM on the NAs.
    • Trinicandian
      Hr34 fuel pump not turning on

      By Trinicandian · Posted

      Hey guys. New here. I am having an issue with my hr34. The fuel pump isn't turning on. I removed it from the tank. Bench test it. Wasn't working. Order new one and installed it today. Still not turning on. Checked the relay. Relay has voltage on the contact side. I jumped it and it tuned the pump on. Which lead me to checked the coil voltage.  Turned on the ignition and had my meter across the coil and there wasn't any dc voltage. Had my meter lead on the positive and I used the frame ground and noticed there was 12 volts. Which lead me to believe the relay isn't getting a negative signal. I traced the wire ( black with pink strip).it goes back to the bottom on the steering and it gets lost into the harness.   I checked at the ecm and I can't seem to find that wire color.   My question if any one knows is. Can I not just run the negative through a ignition relay to turn on the fuel pump relay?. Or anyone ever had this issue and if so how did u go about fixing it.    
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      So many people don't notice it, as batteries decay slowly over time. Two big reasons people end up noticing and needing to replace batteries: 1) The cold weather. The cold not only makes it harder to turn the engine for a few reasons, but it also increases the batteries internal resistance. So this means you need MORE power to turn a colder engine, AND the battery has a lower limit on how much current it can provide. 2) Something gets modified/altered/added in the wiring, typically an aftermarket accessory, like a dash camera, or an alarm etc, and this adds a small amount extra onto the battery, and pushes it over the edge in its failing days. But if you hadn't have read this thread, and just pushed through, chances are you might have made it through this winter, just. But come next winter, it would have been kapoot. But the fact you changed it out now, means you've instantly noticed how much nicer it is for starting, and will be less worry for you that the engine won't start now.
×
×
  • Create New...