Jump to content
SAU Community

Dumb Ass Question - Tripple Turbo GTR Possible?

iNCOGNiTO
 Share

Recommended Posts

iNCOGNiTO Enthusiast

iNCOGNiTO

Posted
Posted

After driving Xboy's GTR, the turbines kick in at around 3500rpm, and boy do they kick in :) however until you get there it's a little dead. So would it be possible to put a third small turbo or even supercharger to cover say 1500-3000rpm or so?

I've driven the Liberty B4 and the power comes on rather early <2000rpm with the first turbine, then the second at around 4000rpm.

My extreamly limited knowledge of car mechanics would say why not put a third smaller turbo on the GTR, I've heard of supercharged twin turbos on small cc engines, why not on a larger engine or even a tripple turbo? I am assuming that this concept is either ridiculas for some reason otherwise somone else would have done it?

hippy Grand Master

hippy

Posted
Posted

well i dont' know if it really is possible .. i'd say no .. but i'm no expert .. if u wanted it to kick in earlier i'd say the choice of the turbos are more important along with the tune ... i'm sure the turbos can reach boost earlier .. say 2.5krpm with the right settings ..

EnricoPalazzo Grand Master

EnricoPalazzo

Posted
Posted

It would be a bitch to design as the small turbo would have to ajoin the plenum of the 2 big turbos. PLus the constraints of the room in the engine bay, plus pipin to intercooler, i doubt in practice it would ever work, however in theory it would.

Anymore questions

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

The GTR's aren't sequential.. so you're probably out of luck with what you suggest.. maybe more appropriate on a TT Supra where its a sequential setup.

See the Liverty is sequential.. so its been designed as a refined daily driver and just driving around on boost most of the time with power always ontap across the range via two smaller turbos.

What you're experiencing on the GTR isn't a "gap" in the range, its just how its engineered as a non-sequential twin turbo setup.. to give full kick when you really need it - that is mid to high range power.

I think there was a concept RB26DETT motor with a supercharger (its posted on here somewhere).. it wasn't in a car for some reason.. I think it had to do with basically just fitting - as the supercharger pushed the width of the engine out too far to fit in an engine bay. Anybody correct me as to why they couldn't get it in a car??

rb25 Grand Master

rb25

Posted
Posted

NASA developed a 4million horsepower engine with one VERY large turbo feeding into another large single turbo, then that feeds 2 x smaller twin turbos (all in sequence) and makes 400psi boost. They now use these engines in their planes that fly on the edge of the atmosphere or statosphere. The turbos are 4 times the size of the engine itself, which is no bigger than a 4 cyl engine....

Also, I can't remember who, someone on here will, but a rally car driver had a Delta S4 which was supercharged and turbocharged. Best of both worlds....

My 25 to 30cents worth

Guest MFX_R33

Guest MFX_R33

Posted
Posted

Twin charging is alot of stuffing around for very little gain. If you are getting good boost by 3000rpm that is fine. All you need to do is to adjust your driving style. With a redline of 8000 (you could even push further than that), you have a rev range of 5000rpm. That is quite a good useable rev range for most driving.

Jeff.

iNCOGNiTO Enthusiast

iNCOGNiTO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes it is a bit of a dreamer idea. but thought I'd check it out. Looks like the concept is fine, and a suprecharger would be the way to go, if it would fit :(

Don't mind having the power up in the higher rev range, but would like a bit more down low for just "normal" driving. Would be ideal as you could then have nice progressive power with the option to give it boot when you want to really bring it on :D

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by rb25

NASA developed a 4million horsepower engine with one VERY large turbo feeding into another large single turbo, then that feeds 2 x smaller twin turbos (all in sequence) and makes 400psi boost. They now use these engines in their planes that fly on the edge of the atmosphere or statosphere. The turbos are 4 times the size of the engine itself, which is no bigger than a 4 cyl engine....

Also, I can't remember who, someone on here will, but a rally car driver had a Delta S4 which was supercharged and turbocharged. Best of both worlds....

My 25 to 30cents worth

big boats use the same system feeding compressed air from 1 turbo into another in another etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't "upload" the pictures. Just copy the picture direct from somewhere (I usually am pasting screenshots or something else that I have on the clipboard as an image, not as a file" and just paste it direct into the post editor. Just like you were pasting it into a Word doc or something. You can't damage something if you lift it where you are supposed to. If you look carefully at the correct jacking points, you will see that they are reinforced right there. And nowhere else. That is where the "foot" of the factory jack is supposed to sit. That's why you need rubber pads with slots. 10mm might not be deep enough. Note also that the slots are not required if the pinchweld has already been slammed flat. You could just lift it at the correct spot with a flat pad, because the damage is already done. No point in making worse though, if it is recoverable. IF. Yes, that's called a chassis rail. You can lift carefully on these, if you spread the load. A decent block of wood is good. But keep in mind what I said before. Any time you start doing this sort of thing, you are off the normal path and into "be bloody careful", because it is obviously not stable. Dumb. The refinforcement is already there. See above.
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah looks like they've been lifted there previously but with solid not slitted rubber blocks. I'd just bend them back (combination of vice grips or hammer with some sort of drift, then hit the area with underbody protection paint. As for the siderails, I'd call those chassis rails and that is exactly what I meant about being careful with the balance point. You can probably lift off them at the point where the 2 pieces overlap, but you need to be careful with the forward balance of the car if you do when the engine is in....sills are a better choice. I guess you could weld some reinforcement in the sill area near the jacking points but it shouldn't be necessary if you use blocks with a slit. If you do want to reinforce it I'd use square section equal or taller than the seam and then just use flat rubber blocks for lifting
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      driver side sidemember and jacking point (looks the worst by far) driver side rear jack point passenger side sidemember and jack point passenger side rear jack point   Ignore my mug on the last photo. Turns out I was just too stupid to properly use the forum's attachment feature previously
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Fk me, I guess next time I will try to use the onsite attachments feature. I find it hard to work with so far though because I can't move the images to where I want them to be. I will try to make a separate post with just images. As for lifting. The work I need to do for now involves the exhaust and engine mainly, so the arm covering the jacking points is not a problem. But I don't want to bend in the whole sill or underfloor by lifting the car at the original jack points. I found some rubber blocks, 125 by 125 with a 10mm wide and 10mm deep cutout, which I'm hoping will work for not hitting the jacking rail. The sidemember, as seen in the service manual, are the rectangular frame rails that come from the front of the car and go alongside the gearbox and downpipe. Those that get crushed inwards if you use them for a floorjack. They are already slightly bent in from being used to hoist by other people. I think cutting off the jacking points and welding or bolting on a reinforcement plate along the sill might not be a dumb idea. Or is it dumb?     A 2 post hoist is what I'm gonna work with, but not for any underbody work, just leaky engine and exhaust work so far. Depends on what else I find that might need immediate attention. For metalwork on the sills I think I'd just bring the car to a panel beater. What's your take on getting rid of the original jacking rails and putting reinforcement plates along the sills?
    • sunsetR33
      Custom titanium intake

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yeah titanium always looks cool but I don't need that, just regular pipes would be fine. But I am really struggling to find any full hardpipe kit that is still for sale.
×
×
  • Create New...